Well, I took the car in today to get new tires mounted. The guys at the store were able to remove some of the lug nuts with their pneumatic gun but many others are frozen. They took a breaker bar to one, and the lug nut sheared in two. The part with the hex head and a bout 75% of the threads came off, but the lower part of the lug nut is still threaded onto the stud deep in the socket in the wheel. I have no idea how that is going to come out.

I took the car over to my jag mechanic and he recommended I try to get some penetrating oil into the threads. He gave me a can of Wurth Rost Off Ice to use at home for a day or two.

I have drilled small holes in the thin metal cover that goes over each lug nut and squirted penetrating oil into them. I'll repeat this in the morning and see if any of the lugs come loose. The mechanic is going to order me a new set of lug nuts and I'll clean up all the studs once I get the lug nuts off.

However, I have no clue how I'm going to remove the broken one. Sigh

 

First buy a new set of lug nuts. Then get a 19mm hole saw and drill the nut fat part off - the remaining cylinder comes off real easy.

Here is another thread on the issue:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-woes-118830/

 

Thanks for the help. I'm going to try that in the morning.

 

After having the same problem with overly anxious mechanics and there heavy handed trigger fingers breaking nuts off I have learned to ask the foreman to not use a gun on my car when taking off the wheels for any reason. Get in that habit and you wont have this happen to often. I had originally done just what your mechanic suggested and it worked, but ultimately I have replaced the hubs and bearings anyway...They cost me around $60. and come as an assembly. They are easy to replace and probably took me all of 30min a side. Remove Tire, Remove Caliper, undo the 4 bolts in the back and disconnect the ABS, Than reverse to install. Simple. I also keep a box of lug nuts handy in the garage because those chrome covers eventually start spinning and are hell to get off if ever needed..as soon as mine are buggered up I replace. Love the color of the car too!

 

Its much easier to replace the lug nuts with solid chrome coated ones of the correct size.

I did after a 1/2 day spent at a shop where they took that long to get a single broken Jaguar original broken lug nut off without damaging the wheel.

If you do go this route be careful that you use the correct "dimensioned" lug nut. I say that with experience having gone with a recommendation, on this forum, where the wheel "floated" by a small fraction on the slightly loose lug nuts.

 

Ok, an update:

I bought a ¾" hole saw and it made short work of what was left of the lug nut. I was able to get the wheel off. That makes two wheels freed.

On the drivers side of the car, several lug nuts were frozen in place. I bought a 19mm 6-point deep socket in ½" drive and a ½" breaker bar. I was able to remove all the lug nuts except two (one on each wheel). These rounded over and are now toast. On my way to work this evening I stopped at O'Reilly's and bought a Lug Nut remover for an impact wrench. Performance Tool M980 - Lug Nut Remover | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I also stopped at harbor freight and bough a cheap impact wrench. I'll try again in the morning and see if I cant get these nuts off.

 

Why don't you drill the rounded ones with the hole saw like you did the broken ones?

 

veffremov,

On the broken one, there was plenty of exposed stud. The hole saw simply slipped over this and drilled the last 1/8th inch of the nut away. On the rounded over ones, the nut is just about as long as the stud, so there would be no way to guide the hole saw without a center bit. That would also destroy the stud. I'll try the new tool first and if that fails, drilling will be the last option.

 

Don't forget to change all 20 lugs to solid ones as was recommended above.
The factory sheet metal capped ones are junk.
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I have had many arguments with shops that refused to properly torque lug nuts, preferring instead to use the impact wrench. At some point in every argument I was told they could "turn the wrench down". Absolute BS. I have yet to see an impact wrench with a torque gage on it.

Every time I had to argue I drove away and never considered returning to those shops. Thankfully, the big tire chains, like NTB and Discount now use torque wrenches on ALL jobs.

Also, whenever I remove wheels myself, I oil the nuts and studs. If you do and keep the yokels with impact wrenches away, you will never have another problem like this.

 

I also put a SMALL dab of anti-seize on the threads like cjd does. But if you research a bit you will find they should be tighten dry only. So be aware that oiling them up can lead to excessive torque on the lugs nuts.

With that said I have not had any problems and they don't get frozen either.
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@MrWhite,

I'm a bit confused, in my experience the hole saw was going over the 19mm hex part of the nut and that was a vary nice guide. The hole saw never touches the stud. Maybe you need larger diameter hole saw? The idea is to get a hole saw that goes over the hex part of the lug nut and drill the rest, so you are left with a cylinder with a hex at the end. Since it is no longer pressing against the wheel, most of the time you can remove the leftover cylinder by hand, or use your original 19mm socket on the hex part of the leftover.

Best if you remove the chrome caps first - I used a smaller (I think 18mm) hole saw to remove the center of the chrome cap. It takes just a quick spin. Again the hole saw is way too big to touch the stud and it centers nicely since the center of the chrome cup is bulged a little bit. With the center off, use a chisel or large screwdriver to open the chrome cap an pliers to take it off. Then drill the nut with the larger hole saw. Took me maybe 5 minutes per nut. 2 hours for the whole car.

Sorry I don't have a video or pictures, I did this in 2007, before the smartphones were a thing.

 

Finally... Success

I spent all day screwing with this. I went outside this morning thinking that the tools I bought yesterday would make short work of the last two rounded over lug nuts. Nope! Don't bother buying the set I linked to above, they are both too big for Jaguar lugs. They just spin on the nut and don't bite in.

Instead get this:

Irwin BOLT-GRIP 394002 - Bolt Extractor Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I used the 2nd to largest one (I think it was 11/16). Using a 1/2" breaker bar with a step down adapter to 3/8. Guess what??? The adapter sheared off. @#$ #%@@ %@ I then had to use an easy out to drill the 3/8 adapter out of the irwin bolt remover. Next I tried putting the bolt remover inside a 1" socket. One of my 1" sockets would not fit inside the wheel, but I found another one that did. This finally did it. I put the bolt remover in the socket, used a 1/2" breaker bar, and then slid a 6 foot length of steel pipe over the breaker bar. I lifted up and heard a loud "SNAP". I thought "Oh ****, I just broke my breaker bar". Nope, the loud sound was the sound of the nut finally releasing.

I drove back to Discount Tire (for the third time) and finally got the tires installed.

I now have three wheels that only have four lug nuts. Earlier in the week, my Jag mechanic ordered me a set of Jag lug nuts at $6 a piece. This was before I read all the comments here about switching to other lug nuts. I can't undo that order now as he has already paid for them. So, I'll be installing Jag lugs. However, I've also ordered 20 new studs from Rock Auto as mine had some serious rust on them. When I get the time, I'm going to remove the breaks and rotors and replace all the studs in the hubs. I'm going to used copper anti-seize and torque them myself by hand.

Hopefully this will be the last time I ever have this hassle.

Thanks for all the comments and advice. This place is awesome!

 

These are what I use. In my 40+ years in the industry, I know when it's a well made part.



The instructions from Jaguar, are to torque dry. If a person chooses to use anti-seize, and you put 95 foot pounds of torque, you will in fact run the risk of warping the rotors and/or breaking the lug. I strongly recommend, is using anti-seize, 72~75 foot pounds of torque.

 

If you do a check on compatibility of the above mentioned lug nuts you will see that on Amazon it states they do not fit a 2004 Jaguar XJR.

The ones that I use are Gorilla 73138T which I got on Amazon. I also purchased the locking lug nuts a well.

I went with ones that were recommended by someone on this forum and they did not fit my car. They "looked" like they fit but the diameter of the shaft was smaller by a fraction of a millimeter so they allowed the wheel to "float" possible damaging the wheel when hitting bumps over a period of time.

I then measured the Jaguar OEM nut shaft with a micrometer to check.

You need all the measurements to be correct including the shaft diameter.

Mine are supposed to be torqued to 92 ft lbs. I torque down dry and do not have problems at all in undoing them.

 

Well they fit my 2004 XJR so much for Amazons compatibility list. Their list also said the Arnott sport strut did not fit a 2004 Jaguar XJR so I ignored it then aswell.

 

There are numerous manufacturers of nuts who sell these types. Not all are created equal. A couple things to keep in mind. The nut on these type of wheels, are not like acorn types. The nut is not the centering device in this design. The purpose of the nut is to hold the wheel firmly against the flange of the wheel bearing. The wheel itself is centered by the flange on the center bearing, which the studs extend on the type 3 wheel bearing assembly. The washer on the nut is actually the pressure point against the wheel. The inside of center hole on the wheel opening extends over this flange area at the center of the wheel bearing assembly, and this is where you need to place a small amount of grease to keep seizure between the 2 different metal types as specified by Jaguar. The nut, which we have, actually extends deeper through the wheel nut opening than the original, giving even more depth in the wheel than the original. (this is good) It did take me a while to pin these down, and they work well. Even better fit than the Jaguar OE. They are not specified on Amazon as direct replacement, because these were originally designed by the manufacturer for Toyota.

 

Totally agree. When I researched this and took advice from other forum members I bought these and ignored the amazon does'nt fit popup.

 

Well, I've ordered the set that you guys recommended from amazon. I've also got the set of genuine Jaguar ones coming that my mechanic ordered for me. I don't think that I can cancel that order, so I'm likely to be stuck with a lot of lug nuts.

 

Good thread, will these fit a 2009 XJ Portfolio?