'67 4.2 OTS Brake Bleeding Issue
I rebuilt rear suspension and replaced original brakes with new calipers and pads along with quick bleeder lines. When I try to bleed the brakes I get nothing. I get fluid under pressure to the "T" at the rear of the car where it splits and heads off to the rear brakes. Am I missing something? Has anyone else had this issue?
Thanks
Thanks
Hi Loanpilot,
I have not experienced what you are describing, but you know that you have fluid to split T.
So, if you had all of that apart as you were doing the suspension restoration, you need to concentrate on that. Is there some dirt particle in the input to the T ?
Did you use any teflon tape to seal the fitting threads? Check to make sure there isn't any tape blocking the fluid.
You also mention you installed different bleeders. Do you mean the remote bleeders with easier access? If this is what you installed make sure that the fittings at the calipers are allowing fluid to pass. In any case, you get the jest of what I am recommending. Check the all the connections one at the time starting at the T and progressing all the way to the bleeders. You don't have to remove the bleeders all the way unless you don't get anything out of it, just enough to allow fluid to leak. If you have fluid, close it and go to the next one.
Good luck and letter us know how you did.
Bill.
I have not experienced what you are describing, but you know that you have fluid to split T.
So, if you had all of that apart as you were doing the suspension restoration, you need to concentrate on that. Is there some dirt particle in the input to the T ?
Did you use any teflon tape to seal the fitting threads? Check to make sure there isn't any tape blocking the fluid.
You also mention you installed different bleeders. Do you mean the remote bleeders with easier access? If this is what you installed make sure that the fittings at the calipers are allowing fluid to pass. In any case, you get the jest of what I am recommending. Check the all the connections one at the time starting at the T and progressing all the way to the bleeders. You don't have to remove the bleeders all the way unless you don't get anything out of it, just enough to allow fluid to leak. If you have fluid, close it and go to the next one.
Good luck and letter us know how you did.
Bill.
Before you disassemble anything get a cheap air driven vacuum bleeder. Harbour freight and Amazon have them. I hate them for final bleeding but they can help to fill the system so you can pedal bleed. You may have air in the master you cant expel. Cheap, quick, easy to get you started.
Echo Daytona’s recommendation… that would be my approach too… access to the bleed nipples is a pain but you should only have to turn them a little to prove the theory… on 2+2 models access is facilitated by some access holes behind the rear seats, not sure if you have something similar on your car…
personally I don’t get all this eazybleed kit stuff… a nice piece of transparent pipe that fits tight over the nipple and the other end in a jar with liquid (water is fine) works fine for all my cars for too many years I care to remember :-)
personally I don’t get all this eazybleed kit stuff… a nice piece of transparent pipe that fits tight over the nipple and the other end in a jar with liquid (water is fine) works fine for all my cars for too many years I care to remember :-)
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jazzwineman
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