I'm beginning my search to purchase an XKE OTS and would like to know if anyone has removed the bumper pads from the latest models and installed the chrome ones from earlier years. I really like the look of the chrome better and would consider buying a later model if this is feasible.
thanks
David

 

Hello David,
Totally feasible. There are a number of manufacturers that make conversion kits, or you can do the work yourself if you some rudimentary mechanical skills. If you undertake the modification, I can send you a detailed procedure.

Steer clear of bumper bars made and supplied by "Jaguar by Jorge" (pronounced hor-hey), ('angel heart pancho' on ebay) the quality and fit is down right rubbish.

The original front over-riders of the late model S3 cars are attached to rods that abuts aluminum pads mounted on the front upper corners of the Picture Frame when the bonnet is closed, thus directing the force of any front impact to the car's front Sub Frames. Accordingly, instead of just dealing with bonnet damage in a low speed impact, there is a high probability of having to address damage to the Sub Frames and the Front Bulk Head, both of which are time consuming repairs. What was the design crew thinking of when this system was hatched?

Regards,

Brent

 

Hello,
I had removed one big bumper guard for a 1974 E-Type to try and figure out replacing it with a smaller one.


I would like to take you up on your offer about sending advice about how to make a smaller replacement for the big/stock one.


Thanks.


Mark Richards
703-690-6296
Fairfax Station, VA
USA

 

Hello Mark,
I'll reply in a few days after I have some time to take pictures.

Regards,

Brent

 

Did Brent ever reply with pics and info on removing the bumper guards?

 

Were you able to complete this? And if so, can you post about it please?

 

Converting the extreme, rubber over-riders of the late US specification S3 E-Type to the European style is something that can, for the most part, be done as a DIY project.

There are conversion kits available from some After Market vendors, but I’ve not been that impressed by any of them. My method is as follows:

• 1.The following picture (Fig. 1) shows the front part of the bonnet with the bonnet upside down. The bracket outlined in Yellow is the bumper bar attachment point near to the air scoop. The bracket is shown released from the bonnet and moved forward. When in the assembled position, the far end of the push rod sits just clear of an aluminium pad mounted on the face of the picture frame.

• 2. The part of the bracket outlined in Yellow is to be harvested and used to secure the Bumper Bar to the Bonnet. The remainder of the assembly is not used and can be stored, or discarded.

• 3. Once the bracket in point 2 has been harvested, its reassembled with the Bonnet in its original location shown by the White arrow.

• 5. The Left end of the component shown in Fig. 2 attaches to the Lower Valance panel where the Bonnet assembly attaches to the Bonnet hinges, with the other end assembling with the bracket shown in Fig.1

• 6. The part in Fig. 2 is not required in the conversion and can be stored, or discarded, but the two caged plates are required. These plates are threaded to accept the bolts securing the Bonnet to the Bonnet hinges.

• 7. Fig. 3 above shows the original assembly from underneath and how the Bumper Bar attaches near to the air scoop of the bonnet. The bracket outlined in Red is the same bracket shown in Fig.1 that needs to be harvested.

• 8. The end of the Bumper Bar outlined in Red needs to be extended to accommodate the European style over-rider. This is the only part of the job that requires a degree of skill and may have to be carried out by a Panel Beater.

• 9. Fig. 4 above shows a top view of the original assembly of where the Bumper Bar is attached near to the air scoop of the Bonnet. The area of the Bumper Bar outlined in Red needs to be extended to accommodate the European style over-rider and is a continuation of the work described in point 8 above. Obviously, the Bumper Bars will have to be re-chromed after the work in points 8 and 9 is carried out.

• 10. This conversion results in a better looking and closer to the original European style look than other methods.

• 11. The holes in the Bonnet and Lower Valance panel don’t have to be closed up; the over-riders hide them to a great extent. However, when we do this conversion we go all the way and close the holes. Often this work is done as part of a restoration project, but a reasonably competent car repair shop should be able to close these holes and make an area repair of the paint.

Regards,

Brent

 

a recent conversion on my 74.