I'm removing the cylinder head from a '71 Series ll XKE, 4.2, for a friend.
I have everything disconnected or removed from the head, with the exception of the Intake Manifold. I've unbolted the Camshaft sprockets and moved them forward on the little shafts, but the head itself is unmovable. It may as well have been welded into place instead of bolted.
I'm considering removal of the Head Studs, but I worry that with their length, and potential corrosion, they might break off.


Can anyone offer advice to "break" the head free, both leaving the studs in place, and removing the studs?


Thanks in advance of any and all help.

 

Get a couple small bottle jacks to push the head off the block from underneath.

The head is wider than the block so there's a fair sized 'ledge' exposed on the bottom side of the head. This is what you'll push against. Arranging/positioning the jacks takes a little imagination.

Exert pressure with the jacks, come back in 12 hours, exert some more pressure, repeat repeat repeat. Eventually it'll break free. Make sure to 'walk' the head up the studs evenly

Cheers
DD

 

+1 on using the bottle-jacks to remove the cylinder head.

It is also helpful to pour some penetrating oil down along the studs as there is most likely corrosion between the aluminium cylinder head and the steel studs.

 

I believe you already know this.....My machine shop related to me that they have had more than one customer who neglected to remove the four nuts at the front/side of the head in addition to the two readily visible nuts on the front. No amount of jacking will break the head loose without removing these nuts.

 

Good reminder on the nuts


Cheers
DD

 

Just trying to be helpful. When I took my head in to the shop for the valve job, the owner asked how I got it off since most folks have had trouble removing these heads on 50 year old cars. Offhandedly I said I just took he front nuts off and it succumbed to me. He then related that he has had many bring in their engines over the years (been in business since the 60's) and rather than embarrass the owner, he would take it in and not point out the lower, hidden fasteners. He said that some Toyotas are like this too and they come in all the time now

Richard

 

Have your tried spinning the engine with the plugs installed to use compression?

 

If it's like most 4.2 Series 2 heads, there's a lot of corrosion and build up, around those tremendously long studs...Remember, they are sitting in coolant for years. First , as mentioned , use the penetrating oil down all the holes...
If you have an engine hoist, make some lifting straps that will bolt into four of the manifold stud holes on either side of the engine (two on each side, front and back. and tighten them down)
Use nylon lifting straps attached to each of these four metal straps, and , using your engine hoist, pull up on the straps....The front of the car will probably lift off the ground.
Now the fun begins....Using hardwood, or nylon wedges, start working them into the edge of the head gasket, as you continue to put upward pressure from the hoist....You can also use metal wedges, but VERY carefully.
Eventually, the weight of the engine/car will cause the head to begin to break free of the gasket.......
It's hard work, and at least a two man job.
Edward

 

Hi Guys.
This is a very common issue with the car. Those studs are like long stakes! Take the greatest of care because you have to put the head back onto those same studs and pull them down tight they have been known to break off at that point, So you now have a great top and bottom end rebuild done and now have to start the rebuild on the bottom end again. Getting it off may just be the first part of the story. Just trying to help.

 

I did this head removal a bunch of years ago. At the time it, was as tough then, as has been posted here. It'll be interesting to see if the "anti-seize" I added to the studs, will have "greased the wheels" for an easier removal 20-25 years later?
I'm tempted, just to see.....?

 

Any updates to this thread?

 

I had this problem with my 1968 E Type. I made up a head puller. It has a flat steel plate with four holes that align with spark plug holes, then 6 bolts that align with the top of the studs. The biggest problem is getting threaded rod with spark plug threads. Get everything snug, then slowly and evenly lift the nuts on the studs and the head will lift off.

 

Wow! Impressive engineering ! Lots of time involved in developing that machine...I don't know how many hours and $$ involved, but I wonder how often you would use it? If I had a repair shop for Jags, I would copy it. I assume you removed the cam shafts before you began your nut turning.
While what I did, was not nearly as complex, total time was about 4 hours...Just a metal strap at each corner , attached to exhaust and intake studs....Ropes attached to staps, then attach to engine hoist...Upward pressure, and plastic wedges...PITA for sure, but effective.
Edward