This is driving me quietly insane.

My car is a pretty fresh restoration, so the door fit was very tight, needing a more aggressive slam to secure, especially on the driver's side.

In my vain attempt to adjust the door 'out' to relax the need to slam, I am now unable to get the striker (jamb piece) to align properly. When I do get it close and the door latches fully, the striker then moves - though with stainless screws very snugly tightened - which makes me curse at the doors, since it must be their fault.

Does anyone have a tutorial, or link, or any way to get the initial positioning right, so I can adjust from there? Any clues on how to better secure the striker plate? I'd love to be able to shut my door again!

Thanks in advance,

 

Just joined, so you've probably got it figured out by now.
But if not...
1. Remove the door part of the latch and make sure your door can properly close to the point you want it to by pressing it in by hand.
2. Now reinstall the door part of the latch, and inspect to make sure you have enough shims installed so the engagement between the door and body parts of the latch is good. Order shims if need be. See photos of wear from poor engagement (not enough shims) attached.
3. Note that you can position the latch in/out/up/down and you can tilt it somewhat too. Get at least 2 of your machine screws snug but not tight and carefully try to close your door without slamming (press the door closed, with your thumb on the handle button and release to latch).
4. See how the door fits your body, then open the door and tap the latch with a wood block or tiny hammer to adjust. When the door reaches the position where you want it tighten the screws Firmly, and slam it shut to test final position.

I will guess that you will want the door where you originally had it. The rubber door seal is likely new and making the door closing hard...but what most of us want is for the alignment of the door with the other body panels to be correct even if it requires a hard slam. Over time the rubber will let up a bit.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Robert

 

obertRo, thank you tons for this! Though I did do at least 3,200 consecutive slams, with an increase in frustration with each adjustment, my door 'sort of' closes now. It is not just right, but I got so sick of dealing with it I just left it as is.

The body part of the latch does indeed got the gouged look of your photo in mine already. Should I replace? My vehicle has no shims whatsoever.

Further, I found a very thick version of the 3-holed item (shim?) in Photo 1, laying inside the cavity behind the door jamb striker area. It was not attached. Is that a support for the body part of the latch?

Again, I thank you beyond measure!

 

The number of shims varies even from side to side on one car, and the shims are sided: left or right. Shims should bring the block on the B pillar in alignment with door part of latch. New foam is very stiff and will hopefully soften/deform with time.

 

Glad I could help AHudson.
Yes, that is a shim in the background. It sounds like you found one installed wrongly on the inside of your door post!

You can get them from XK's Unlimited or here: http://www.clarkandclarkinc.com/prod...latch-shim.php.
(disclaimer: This is my web page; I make them--after finding none available when I needed them for my eType).

The shims are reversible, so work for either side. I don't think you need to replace your latch, because you hopefully have lots of good surface left once you shim properly to get it in use.

Robert

 

It's been way too long since I've replied to this helpful post. (Had another automotive project jump between me and the E type. Oh well.)

Found out the real issue: the striker screws were cut off from some stock screws, and a fraction too long, like say 1/32", allowing it to bottom on the retaining 'cage' behind the captured nuts inside the body/door jamb. When the screws bottomed, the striker latch felt tight, but the door would 'adjust' the presumably tightened striker every time. Thus, driving me insane.

I finally figured this out and am ready to proceed.

Atop this, my door panel was about 1/4" too long for the door, meaning the inner arc of the panel would barely clear the striker, and in fact would just touch it if loose at all, nicking my vinyl.

So I removed the door panel, trimmed the panel, restretched the vinyl (now hiding the nicks). Of course, I had to cut the chrome spear to match, but now all is well.

My restoration guy built my body seams almost too tight, aiming for perfection, but sometimes this complicates other fitments.

Just ordered the shims (thanks!) and am in need of the 3 screws. Sell me those if you have em! Thanks again,