Hi my E/type is a 70 4.2 2+2 auto p/s a/c bought new California 61000mls. we nw live in NZ. cheers.

 

71 2+2.....now in 500 pieces on the garage floor after going in to replace blown head gasket and then figuring out that time is right for strip/refinish "while i am in there"- hope to have engine bay done and engine reinstalled in a month or so

 

Hey there, any of you guys doing this type of project on the E type, we'd love to see it.

Any pics / progress restoration threads please, please add them!

 

Update to my last post in Jan....car is now about 75% done. Pictures are on the XKE Data website at XKE Data - Keeping track of every Jaguar E-Type - Jaguar E-Type (XKE) information, articles, photos and register. Type in 1E35691 in the 'Car Search' block.

 

nice photos on xke data site- very cool that you painted this one in the garage- did tha work out well for you? very, very tempted to paint body myself after engine bay is done and engine re-installed

 

Thanks.....yes the garage worked great as a paint booth. Biggest hassle was removing everything and getting it sealed with plastic and cleaning and cleaning and cleaning. I sealed all of the joints with house wrap tape. I used furnace filters along the bottom of the garage door and at the other end for cross ventilation with a small fan outside pushing air into the garage thru the filters creating positive pressure.. I used a low pressure gun and had almost no over spray. I shot 4 coats of base and three of clear so that I'd have lots of room for color sanding but it came out so good that I've not had to do much. It will never be a Pebble Beach car but that was never my intention....this one's a driver.

 

Question.... did you paint the bulkhead with the frames on or off? I've been wondering if painting it with them on would reduce the electrical connectivity from the frames to the body, you know for grounding reasons....

Also, what type paint and clear did you use?

 

Yes, I painted all of the sub frame separately with a single stage paint. Not sure if that would have any effect on the grounding but I learned long ago to add lots of additional grounds to British cars....so I added a ground strap from each side of the subframe to the body...as for paint, I used Sherwin-Williams 2nd Dimension system. Really like how it went on and the depth and gloss....time will tell the rest of the story.

 

will be spraying my engine bay this week- using ppg single stage for frame and firewall, just to simply the least bit- help me understand grounding issues which you guys have raised- assume i need bare metal connection between tubes and sheetmetal but what else?

 

and one othe thing, just to get to the depth of my inexperience on this one....why positive pressure into the garage instead of negative- i always assumed i would be exhausting fumes but i am obviously missig something here- thanks- and btw, when you say small fan, box fan or what?

 

I'll be the first to admit that I go overboard with grounding. That being said, you're right, all that you need is clean bare metal at the connection points and a strap between the two points....DO NOT drill any holes in the subframe!! I used the motor mount attachment bolts...not the engine to mount bolt...and zip tied the strap back to the torsion bar mounts on the body tub. Be sure to use additional ground straps from the engine block to the frame when you get to that point. Hope that helps and good luck with the painting.

 

Let me start by saying that I am no pro at this but I've tried it both ways and have had better luck with positive pressure. It keeps the dust down better, and also doesn't trash your fan motor from the overspray. Probably more importantly, it's safer to have anything that provides a spark out of the painting area. On that note, be sure to either isolate or completely shut down anything in the garage that might cause a spark...furnace, water heater etc (including pilot lights) and have your compressor out of the paint area. I use an old furnace fan that I found at a garage sale and added a rheostat so that I can control the amount of air but think that a 30" box fan will work just as well...especially for a small job.