Noticed a significant gas fume smell in the cabin last couple times out. At first I thought it might just be the rich carburetors but it was getting worse. Removed the spare tire, etc. and saw small gas puddle along the right rear wall with hints of dripping down the side under the lines leading to the fuel pump. I cleaned everything up, soaked rags with vinegar + baking soda + hot water and left it over night. Drove today with oil soaking pads in place to try to determine the exact source of the leak. Nothing specific, same trail left behind. Thoughts? Replace the fuel pump and install new lines? Thanks for any advice!

 

Before you do anything drastic, like replacing the fuel pump and lines, check the gaskets at the top of the gas tank...the ones that seal the sender unit and the submersible fuel pump (if your car is so equipped...you didn’t mention which E-type you had).

These gaskets are known to age and leak, especially when the gas tank is nearly full (was it?). Tighten down all of the bolts (but don’t overdo it).

I generally avoid filling my gas tank beyond 3/4 full to minimize fuel sloshing up to the gaskets. I also replace the gaskets every few years.

Good luck,
Alan
N.J.

 

Thank you and apologies about not being clear. The car is a 69 SII FHC. Today I put absorbent powder along where I saw evidence of gas. The pics below are the result after taking the car for a brief drive. I didn’t and haven’t seen any evidence fuel near the gas tank on the opposite side. I also checked the fuel pump under that removable flap, it wasn’t wet, but I’m wondering if it’s the seal going out from the pump dripping slow along the length of the line until gravity takes over and it falls into the trunk pan?

 

Here's a suggestion. Remove the power lead from the coil and remove the 3 wire cable to the voltage regulator. Now if you turn the key to the on (not start) position the fuel pump should pressurize everything and perhaps you can see the drip, Good luck.

 

First off, stop driving the car. You can inspect the fuel pump by removing the oval panel. My bet is that one of those old fuel lines is ruptured, but you have to stop driving and use your eyes and hands to locate the leak.

 

I am with mxfrank. Stop driving the car.
My guess is that you have a slow leak at the pump to its connections, or there is a small crack or pin hole on one of the fuel lines.
Pressurize the system as described by billb44 and look for the source of the leak.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Bill.

 

Thank you. I did stop driving it once I verified the leak the other day. Spoke with the local Jag specialist who is close to my house, he is going to investigate the issue ASAP since I’m not quite comfortable doing so solo. That said, since I just had a load of work done on the car and don't know when the pump or lines were last replace, I’d just as soon be proactive and replace both the pump and lines. I located the correct pump at 3 vendors. Any recommendations on the lines? Are they pretty much all the same?

 

I'm not a fan of nylon lines. Unless you're planning a show car, rubber lines are easier to source and easier to install.

 

I would agree re nylon vs superior materials. I saw this at Moss motors and will likely go in that direction or related.

 

Question for my edification; when I changed the fuel pump on my Porsche 550 reproduction last year I simply disconnected the positive battery connection and proceeded. Is this method the same for the E type or are there other considerations due to the various electronics & systems which I did not have in the 550? Thank you.

 

Personally I just disconnect the battery and remove the part that I am working on. These cars don't have computers that have to be maintained on in order to save the memory (At least my 68 E-Type doesn't).
Stay safe,
Bill.

 

My Series 2 had a cabin fuel smell also! Mine was a simple fix: New gasket on the tank. Of course, do an inspection of hose connections. But, knowing that you smell it in the cabin, I would replace the gasket on top of the gas tank, because it is quick and easy. And ditto to the member who said to change it out every few years. I have owned my E for twenty years.

 

Oh, I forgot: when my tank was removed, my mechanic found fiberglass patches from long ago that were also leaking. No fuel leakage in the trunk, but was dripping onto my garage floor. Tank was replaced.

 

So when you say gasket, are you referring to just the gasket pictured below or the banjo and bolt too? I had been considering replacing the banjos but they look pretty solid.

 

If there's no leak from the banjo's, there's no need to even remove them. Just slit the old hose and pull it off. If there are leaky banjo's, you should only need to replace the washers.

You can get Gates hose at any auto parts store, a lot cheaper than mail ordering it.

 

Ah, got it re the washers and thank you for the tip re Gate’s hose! What diameter is the hose, was wondering about that? I will keep the thread posted on outcome! Appreciate the help as always!

 

Question on the fuel pump exact positioning. I’m pretty sure my set up is not accurate and I can’t seem to find pics on the correct placement. I know that an L bracket is involved, which I purchased along with a new pump bracket, etc. As it applies, which manual / text for Series II FHC do you recommend which might show such things and assist with maintenance in general? Thank you!

 

This really isn't complicated. There are mounts which bolt to the top and bottom of the pump. These are bolted to three metalastick vibration isolators, which in turn are bolted to a shelf in the inner fender. You can either undo the bolts from above or reach into the inner fender and unbolt from below.. Expect skinned knuckles. Bentley's Original Jaguar E-Type is a collation of all three FSM's for S1/S2, but it doesn't have illustrations of the pump mounting.

https://www.classicjalopy.com/2020/0...ype-fuel-pump/

 

The link you provided is perfect! I can see exactly how the pump should be installed and the bolt configuration! My current pump is no where close to correctly installed in viewing the images you provided. Thank you very much!

 

So I’ve been considering replacing the fuel pump myself, getting impatient waiting to get into my local guy and fairly confident the process isn’t rocket science, despite my earlier trepidation. I do, however, have 3 questions 1. Do I clamp the existing fuel lines to prevent fuel from flowing into the tire well? 2. Do I slice the fuel lines longitudinally where they connect to the banjos for simplest removal? 3. What is the degree of difficulty attaching the new lines to the banjos and is there a specific tool other than my hands to use? Thank you for any advice.