My neglected XKE S3
#1
My neglected XKE S3
I bought this XKE in 1974. It was driven as one of my two primary car from 1975 until 1979. It has been in storage since 1979. Most of the storage time it was in a temperature controlled environment with a mechanic with many excuses. The motor was never properly drain nor was it properly covered. Two months ago I finally got the car moved to a different mechanic. Below are pictures of the car and some progress pictures on restoration project .I have a feeling this is going to be a long and expensive restoration. The body of the car has no rust and the interior is in good condition.
The following users liked this post:
KipF (05-14-2017)
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,742
Received 10,755 Likes
on
7,101 Posts
#5
You may know this already, (apologies if you do !), but don't turn the engine over with the heads off unless you have installed the cylinder liner clamps. If you do this the liners may move up and the seal with the block broken. Also don't turn the engine over in the reverse direction as you will break the chain tensioner.
You're a lucky main to have a car like this, they are now seriously expensive here in the UK.
You're a lucky main to have a car like this, they are now seriously expensive here in the UK.
The following users liked this post:
Awillie (12-03-2016)
#6
Thanks for the information Fraser. I sent a copy of your post to my mechanic. He has never worked on a Jaguar. Any information that anyone wants to share would be appreciated. He went to mechanical school and has only done 1940-1960s Ford and Chevrolet restorations in the past. He currently has the timing chains anchored. The second head has been removed and he is cleaning the cylinders. Six cylinder have significant rust.
#7
Trending Topics
#10
It's definitely slow, but better to have someone take their time and check everything as they go. Mine has been in a state of disassembly since October. It seems like every time I think they are wrapping things up, they discover another issue. In the case of my car, the PO only put about 9,000 miles on it over an almost 30 year period. There were years it literally just sat there. Fortunately, like yours, there's no rust, no rot, and no previous accidents.
#12
#13
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Inverell, NSW, Australia
Posts: 3,014
Received 1,410 Likes
on
876 Posts
I commend you on your mission. You are wise to set realistic timeframe and budget. It's going to be a long challenge, but full of small tasks whose completion will inspire you tackle the next. Wise too, to canvass advice of other owners, whether of similar resto or maintaining an E-Type since new. I have only 1 item of "non-tech" advice. At times, you will be flooded with opinions and never short of "friends" who drop in to see the job progressing, BUT . . . I recommend you form your own vision for your resto . . . what it is you want to achieve and why . . . and stick to it. I'll skip the obvious . . . engine, body and trim. Any E-Type owner knows that sills, jacking points, underbody generally, and rear boot/trunk and wheel-well in particular, are known rust traps . . . and structurally, far more critical in a convertible.
Most of my experience has been on the Series1 and 2 6cyl XKs, including owning our E-Type for near 40yrs . . . and maintaining it and several others for friends. Not bragging, just context . . . because the 2 areas of technical advice I am about to suggest are generally ignored, overlooked or just misunderstood. Worse still, in my experience, both have proven to be far worse on cars that have been stored away without the benefit of regular maintenance or service . . . a genuine case of low miles equals huge neglect. Others may disagree but my comment is based solely on observed facts.
Firstly, although upgraded by the Series3, the cooling system was marginal at best, especially in hotter climates. In a 40yo E-Type, the radiator is odds-on to be in sad shape, whether partially blocked or leaking. On the V12, replacing with new or re-manufactured water pump is a given, but the poor rad core is often overlooked. My advice is to re-core provided your headers are OK and consider upgrading to a somewhat thicker core - ie more water channels.
Secondly, more critical, I recommend you renew as much of braking system as possible . . . all rotors and pads, re-sleeve master cylinder, full master and caliper seal kits, all fixed brake lines and flexible hoses. Why? Because, being hygroscopic and after 40 years of neglect, your brake fluid will be more rust than fluid, seals will be shot and corrosion will be rampant.
Best wishes and please keep us posted with your progress,
Ken
Most of my experience has been on the Series1 and 2 6cyl XKs, including owning our E-Type for near 40yrs . . . and maintaining it and several others for friends. Not bragging, just context . . . because the 2 areas of technical advice I am about to suggest are generally ignored, overlooked or just misunderstood. Worse still, in my experience, both have proven to be far worse on cars that have been stored away without the benefit of regular maintenance or service . . . a genuine case of low miles equals huge neglect. Others may disagree but my comment is based solely on observed facts.
Firstly, although upgraded by the Series3, the cooling system was marginal at best, especially in hotter climates. In a 40yo E-Type, the radiator is odds-on to be in sad shape, whether partially blocked or leaking. On the V12, replacing with new or re-manufactured water pump is a given, but the poor rad core is often overlooked. My advice is to re-core provided your headers are OK and consider upgrading to a somewhat thicker core - ie more water channels.
Secondly, more critical, I recommend you renew as much of braking system as possible . . . all rotors and pads, re-sleeve master cylinder, full master and caliper seal kits, all fixed brake lines and flexible hoses. Why? Because, being hygroscopic and after 40 years of neglect, your brake fluid will be more rust than fluid, seals will be shot and corrosion will be rampant.
Best wishes and please keep us posted with your progress,
Ken
The following users liked this post:
Awillie (05-15-2017)
#14
#15
I'm guessing that the fuel lines are also going to be replaced while it's all apart.
Did your mech use copper or cupro-nickel for the brake pipes?
I love chassis up re-builds, did it on my old Porsche S2 Turbo years ago.
A friend and I have ours eyes on a 1963 TR4A at the moment that I last worked on maybe 15 years ago, and that was just to assist the owner putting the new wings on (he was a personal friend, deceased recently), there is also a 1960 split screen Moggie in the other shed that might come our way, just got to try and persuede his son to let us have them.
Did your mech use copper or cupro-nickel for the brake pipes?
I love chassis up re-builds, did it on my old Porsche S2 Turbo years ago.
A friend and I have ours eyes on a 1963 TR4A at the moment that I last worked on maybe 15 years ago, and that was just to assist the owner putting the new wings on (he was a personal friend, deceased recently), there is also a 1960 split screen Moggie in the other shed that might come our way, just got to try and persuede his son to let us have them.
#16
#17
Curto does a good job, have known him for 25 + years
#18
I have not posted for several months. Slow progress.
I got the 9:1 pistons from Welsh. I believe they were used in the rest of the world except for USA. Not familiar with 10:1 pistons.
I am not sure if fuel line has been replaced. The gas tank has been removed and cleaned. No rust in trunk floor pan.The fuel uptake screen cleaned. The fuel pump tested. Fuel tank is ready to be installed. The brake pipes have been installed. Front end had rebuilt calipers bilateral. New master and booster cylinder installed. The front suspension is about ready to go. Working on rear suspension at present.
Finally ready to rebuild motor. Will check to see if head needs resurfacing.
Here are few photos
I got the 9:1 pistons from Welsh. I believe they were used in the rest of the world except for USA. Not familiar with 10:1 pistons.
I am not sure if fuel line has been replaced. The gas tank has been removed and cleaned. No rust in trunk floor pan.The fuel uptake screen cleaned. The fuel pump tested. Fuel tank is ready to be installed. The brake pipes have been installed. Front end had rebuilt calipers bilateral. New master and booster cylinder installed. The front suspension is about ready to go. Working on rear suspension at present.
Finally ready to rebuild motor. Will check to see if head needs resurfacing.
Here are few photos
Last edited by Awillie; 12-08-2017 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Add photo
#19
I'm in the same boat as you. I started my full restoration of my 71 Series 3 back in July. They are close enough that if you have any questions about anything I might be able to provide some reference pics.
You can see my progress at http://johnnyjag.com/PhotoGallery/index.php?/category/71
I take LOTS of pictures.
You can see my progress at http://johnnyjag.com/PhotoGallery/index.php?/category/71
I take LOTS of pictures.
#20