'69 e-type w/ original paint, very thin in areas. Going to sand down, prime, and re-shoot. Keeping original color “Cream”. It will be professionally done; however, I do not know if there are some specific instructions that I need to give them if they do not paint old jags on a regular basis or if there are some “does” and “don’ts” that I need to tell the shop. Goal is for it to really shine. Thanks

 

Like many things, the foundation, and in this case, the surface that will be painted, is going to dictate the outcome. After sanding, Prep Solv is a good surface cleaner. Don't allow any silicone, sprays, etc. In the area. Same with exhaust from other cars. HVLP spray guns are the norm. Paint shop should be able to tell what the current paint is and what is compatible to go over it.

 

I think it will depend on your intentions for the car. I'm really an old Corvette guy who has driven modern Jaguar sedans as daily drivers, but in the NCRS, having a Corvette judged is all about making it look like it did when it came out of the factory. Most painters today don't have a clue how to do that. If I were to have a modern paint job done on a vintage Corvette, I would lose ALL 85 points for the paint because if it is not "like original", then I would get ZERO condition points no matter how perfect it was. I.e. because its over-restored. I expect its similar with the E-type (tho likely with fewer factory flaws to try to replicate). Ironically, it does cost less to make it look better than new. However, if having it judged in concours events is going to be important to you, then you need to join JCNA, purchase the judging guide for your year model and I suggest even attend an event first to get some advice from the guys who know, either judges or guys who've previously been through concours judging with their E-types.

But either way some advice, while its still car show season, attend a few local shows and when you see a paint job that you like, ask the car's owner who painted it and if they don't mind sharing, how much did it cost. Notice the word "who" and not "where" or "the name of the shop". I learned the hard way that the guy who lays the paint who has the skills, the "eye" and generally the responsibility for saying whether the prep is complete and ready to paint. A shop can literally put out a national show winner one day and a job that even Maaco would snicker at the next when their most experienced painter leaves for greener pastures elsewhere. You want to make sure the same person paints your car as the one that impressed you at the car show. When you visit for a pre-quote consultation, be sure to mention the car that impressed you so that he will know that is the level of work you are expecting because some painters do offer different levels of work to satisfy different needs and budgets. Also I suggest avoid those "buddy" deals where an old retired guy paints cars in his back yard shop for all his car show buddies. I've gotten both one of my best paint jobs and later my absolute worst that way. The significant savings is tempting, but I've now concluded that 50/50 risk is not worth it. Stick with a professional shop that has a reputation to uphold and will more likely stand behind their work. Good luck.

 

Main thing in relation to modern auto paints is the now almost universal use of "Clear-over-Base". The old factory finishes got the gloss from the colour coat.

 

Default1/ Sand down an inconspicuous part of the car to work out what colour was the very first put on and tell the painter not to sand past that colour. For example, on a 1974 car, that was a yellow primer filler. Yours may be different.
2/ You have a choice of paint types to put back on. Modern 2pack and acrylic paints dry by chemical reaction and may give the high gloss you desire, but viewed under a fluorescent strip light they appear mottled as the surface is bumpy from the uneven chemical reaction as they gel up and harden. If you want the same finish as factory, then you'll have to use a paint which dries via solvent action, e.g. via cellulose thinners.
kind regards
Marek

 

I have a 1967 E-Type for which the original color was cream. With non opalescent (metallic) paint I highly recommend single stage paint for several reasons.. It is more like the original. It is less expensive, It's easier to get right and if, god forbid, you need to make a repair the paint will match much better.

Herb