Unfortunately I was unable to salvage the bearings on my 70 OTS’s output shafts as the races were badly pitted from rust. As the original bearings are no longer available I may be forced to use the replacements offer from the usual sources. Apparently they are inferior to the originals and may be prone to leakage. Therefore I’m reaching out to see what experiences people have had with them. Below is an informative previous post by Bill Angel explaining the issues.
Hello John,
Are you replacing the Output Shaft Bearings? If so, you’re in for a disappointment. The original bearings, were a good idea for speeding up assembly in production. They are Double Row, Angular Contact Bearings with a split centre race. When assembled by hand pressure only, there is a minuscule gap between the inner faces of the inner race halves, then when the securing nut is tightened, these faces are draw together to provide the correct pre-load that is built into the bearing.

This bearing hasn’t been available for many years, and the replacement being offered by the After Market parts suppliers is a poor alternative, with no scope whatsoever of being able to pre-load the bearings. The bearing is 2mm narrower than the original, necessitating a 2mm spacer for the inner and outer race being provided. The spacer for the centre race is OK, being held concentric by its location on the shaft, the Outer Spacer being supplied is the same OD and the bearing’s OD, but there is no scope for the Spacer to fit into the bore with the bearing. Accordingly, there is nothing to hold the spacer concentric and it falls to the bottom of the spigot bore for the Brake Caliper Plate.
Regards,
Bill

 

So, does this current state of affairs for Output Shaft bearings apply to S2? Not sure what the "type 3" in title refers to. My 69 S2 coupe, built Aug, 69 is currently in the shop to address a diff whine at @ 50 MPH, goes away when you let off the gas. Tech has sussed out any red herrings. If the car needs output shaft bearings, and this spacer and 2mm difference is an issue, ANY alternatives?
Secondly, are there brands/suppliers of the seals needed that would be best? Price not an issue, quality, fit and longevity are. However, if we're talking $100 vs $10, I may have to have a conversation with myself.

 

Val
I know you have seen Bill Angel's posts on the subject. I'm not sure what dates cars have the type 2 or changed to the type 3 diff. I know from tearing my diff apart my 70 OTS is a type 3.
From the parts books it looks like type 1 and 2 , not to be confused with series 1 and 2, had a dedicated housing for the drive shaft bearings and used a same outside and inside bearings on each shaft. Type 3 eliminated that housing and just has a single bearing mounted on the drive shaft that seats into the diff casing while the oil seal housing bolts right to the diff case. That's the unobtainable original who's replacement is prone to leak. I have read all Bill's advice and coming to the conclusion I'm am going to have to give the replacement a try I was posting to see how many people were experiencing problems and alternative possible solutions. So far no replies so hard to gauge whats going on in the real world.

 

A busy morning researching and communicating vis a vis this rear diff issue.

I did find some information which may help clarify which cars have which type diff:

to whit:

1. type 1 early, fitted up to June of 1965.

2. type 1 late, fitted to mid-1969

3. Second type,, distinguishable by a collapsible spacer, rather than shims, to set pinion pre-load. These units have a C suffix in the serial number stamped on the diff case, "likely fitted from mid 1969-early 70"

4. Third type, fitted starting at LHD/FHC 1R26576. Most easily identifiable by the drive shaft oil seal container/caliper bracket being a separate item bolted to the differential.

My car, built late August of 1969 APPEARS, by its VIN to have Type 3, but I will know more later in the week.. tech is taking all the parts off so we can make or attempt to make some intelligent assessments.

 

Val
I have also spent all day working on a parts order with SNG to rebuild my differential. They are basically versions of the Dana 44 used in may vehicles however the Jag's were made by Salisbury in England hence know as Salisbury's. Jag also made various unique alterations to the guts over the years for different applications. There is a tag on the Diff that is stamped BPL which means British(Salisbury) Power Lok assuming you have a power lock rear end as not all were PLs. Also a tag with the gear ratio.
If you look at the parts breakdown for the Type 3 differential on SNG's site you will see the plate you are referring too as #32. It holds the O ring oil seal and bolts directly to the diff casing but as far as I know no attachments for the brake calipers. This is the same parts drawing as makes up the differential for my 70 OTS.

Here are two very good differential rebuild videos I have watched multiple times over the last weeks before dismantling my diff and preparing my parts order.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...1f87f5c322fcd5
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...8e61b7a3dcb6d3

 

So tech has demounted the rear diff assembly and sent photos. Date stamp is H 69, which fits with my documented production date of August 1969. The other number is
10740 or 1074C... would that be the "C" suffix that denotes a Type 2?

Then, in the photo of the reddish-looking case, Not sure of the location where this photo was taken,

Looks like 4HU 004-25
LEY 62 4(?)
30 16 ?

The car's VIN is 200 units PAST the proposed start date of Type 3 diff, so I'm totally lost here.

 

Sorry we are a little late to this thread but perhaps we can help a bit. Please see the bulletins both US and UK. They are not in date order-scanner issues. Hope this helps.

 

And here are the special tools in the flesh. !8G134 and BLT 1061.

 

Sorry we missed a page--here is the last page from the UK version.

 

Coventry Foundation!!! Thank you SO much for this, taking your time to scan it and upload it. Going to visit the tech and the car today, so may be able to figure out if I have a Type 2 or Type 3 US.

 

Val here is a picture of the stamping son my pumpkin . My car # is IR12026.

 

Interesting I know the pumpkins were made by Salisbury and the same case was probably used for many different applications, and maybe even car companies, but it would be interesting to know what the difference is between our two numbers

H69 1074 C
N69 2039 C

 

So, my car, a 2-seat coupe, built August of 1969, has H69 1074C VIN 1R 26776. What year and form factor is your E? Here I thought I figured something out, that the H being the 8th letter in the alphabet corresponded to the 8th month of the year. But with your N, being the 14th number, just blows that line of thought to bits. Do you know the build date on your car? on the door jamb plate??

 

1R12062 was built Dec. 18 1969 according to our records.

 

Interesting .. the later build date on my car had a lower VIN # ….. wonder how that’s happens?

 

Val .. I’m thinking your diff should be a type 3 … you can tell most easily if your output shaft has only one bearing on it like this parts drawing.

 

Consulted with tech today, and based on that rear caliper bracket form factor, we ' ve decided it IS a Type 3. Some decisions to make, but tech had a question. Neither he or I understand the problem described where the not so good output shaft replacement part's shim falls down. Is that only when this work is being done while on the car? Is it still an issue if it' s being replaced off the car, on the bench?
Anyone else out there used the currently available output shaft bearing for Type 3? Does it fail? Make noise?

 

Your car is an OTS right? Val has a coupe ---right. Numbers are a different serial set for RHD/LHD/OTS/FHC/2+2 so six sets of numbers.

 

Ok that makes sense.