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Hello, all.
I have now had "Rerun" for 3 weeks and have satisfied myself that he runs out pretty well. Easy starting, smooth idle @ 1000 rpm, no evidence of overheating. Areas of concern are inop fuel gauge, clock, and various dash lights, terrible tire balance (I hope) shake at 55 mph, high clutch pedal engagement,
Cosmetically, it is a disaster. Previously re-painted a metallic red, there are multiple parking lot dings and, the interior was dyed. The carpeting is a biohazard. Underneath it was disclosed I would find rusted floor pans.and two new ones came with the car.
So this morning I have timidly began to explore. I confirmed power at the fuel level sending unit and at the gauge, so I guess I will order another gauge off Ebay and hope. Since I am not a technician, all I can do is throw parts at it. Probably do the same with the clock.
Then I started removing carpet to expose the rusted floor pans. . But as I look closely, it appears the rust on the driver side rises above the pan level behind the clutch pedal. Watched lots of videos about pan replacement, and was hoping a "nibbler" and screws would suffice. But WHAT to do about the rust that is outside their perimeters? Maybe bondo and or fiberglass patch?
I discovered open holes in the transmission tunnel. Haynes informs that they are "lubrication apertures" and reference "metal or rubber" covers. Moss has 2" plugs but no joy on 4". I am thinking of using the circular wall door knob protectors unless someone knows of a source?
Lots of fun ahead!
rust just above floor pan to left of clutch pedal transmission tunnel opening, driver side transmission tunnel openingS, passenger side
Hi lbc3,
I am pretty sure that the plugs are available from SNG or Moss.
As for the floor and rust repair, the only way to do it, is to do it right. No screws to secure the new floor panels you have or any other panel you may need to replace. Mig welding would be the correct way. All panels are available from the usual suppliers. Replace one panel at the time, unless you have a jig bench.
Good luck with your project and keep us posted.
I used West Valley to rebuild my 69's speedo. They redid the insides as I requested. I did NOT want the exterior redone cosmetically as my interior gauges were in really good shape and I did not want one gauge to be obviously 'prettier' than the others. Turned out great!
"Morris Mintz is the owner of West Valley Instrument Specialists, Inc. For over 50 years, he has been repairing and restoring Smith and British Jaeger instruments. We are also skilled in the restoration and repairs of most foreign and domestic instruments. From standard repairs, to concourse restoration, we can duplicate or customize the look and operation of your instruments to your preferred specifications. Whether you want to convert your mechanical tachometer to electronic, or your clock to quartz you will be impressed with our reliable service and one year guarantee.
We repair or restore most foreign and domestic instruments mechanical or electronic: speedometers, tachometers, gauges, clocks, fuel senders, cables & ratio boxes for speed and odometer corrections."
*****
Dash lights may just be burned out bulbs... in the instruments easy to replace.
IMO, you are better off sending your gauge to a competent rebuilder, then you KNOW it will work. Most Ebay auctions are for used gauges that may or may not function. Those are usually sold to someone who doesn't have the gauge, then that buyer sends it for a rebuild.
Not clear from photos, but FYI, jaguar used a red oxide primer. So I am hoping that the footwell verticals are not really rusted (?)
Using a heavy duty metal brush to remove surface scale may provide a definitive answer.
Working on an old car to bring it back is not like getting rental property ready for new tenant. With RP, we HAVE to get a tenant in there to cover costs. With the car, we can prioritize what it needs for 1. Safety 2. Usage. IMO you are better off getting ReRun, with a good running engine. The cosmetics are just that. Here is a photo from a friend and fellow club member who intentionally bought one that he planned to take down to bare metal. It appeared to have a 'beautiful paint job".. Yeah, right.
I am sure you are right. My quandary is that within my financial limits, Rerun will never be a "showgirl". Today, I got an estimate of $40k for a paint job...not gonna happen!
My goal is to create an attractive "driver" that I can at least get out of even and then look for an $80K car like I should have when I compromised and bought the nicest MGA mk II I could find for $38K and then lose sanity and drop another $40k and counting on this Jag. I'm an idiot.
Fast Lane Cars has a ,'71 roadster with AC that just dropped to $80K...if only I could get him interested in a trade!!
Again thanks for your input; I will keep posting my corner cutting progress and hope I am not ostracized from the group as a heretic.
I have pulled the bandaid off and started on my "poor man's" restoration. My floor pan repair has me researching phosphoric Acid cleaner, rust converter, seam sealer, u.v. fibre patches, etc. Plasma cutters, metal "nibblers" and mig welders. I am confident I can return them to a safe and solid condition, but it won't "be right" by purist standards.
Another thing that won't be right is the paint/body work if the $40k quote I got today is any indication. Call me "Lollipop" because I clearly must have "sucker" tattooed on my forehead! Uh Oh, Better Call Maaco, is what I'm thinkin'.
Found a clock repair service; box it up with $100 and it comes back looking original, but with a quartz movement. Also bought a fuel gauge off a vendor on Ebay that "guarantees" it, or replaced for free. I'll send my old one off for rebuild later as a spare.
I have found a source for the rubber plugs...the two inch-ers are easy, the three, a bit pricey. While chasing paint quotes today I damn near burned my ankle off, having removed the carpets and those apertures being open!
And Rerun performed poorly; accelerating through 3-3500 rpm, he spit and coughed. Just guessing timing or carbs but I don't have a clue.
The local "Jaguar Club of North Florida" is in a bit of disarray at the moment with a down for maintenance website so I don't have access to local expertise, if there is any. So you're "it". They do tell me there is a Jag Repair Specialist moving his shop from Maryland to St. Augustine this summer so perhaps when the cosmetics are complete he will be available to sort the mechanical gremlins.
Thanks for checking in, I'll keep you posted!
Pete.
Well $40,000 covers their end, because they don't know what they'll find under current paint. I stripped Mr E myself, aviation stripper and a heat lamp. Not as big a project as when I stripped my 17 ft wood boat. Stripping paint falls in my category as grunt work that I could do for less than whatever the shop hourly rate would be. Stripping it yourself would save money and eliminate the painter' s guesstimate on what's under current paint. I did have the bonnet media blasted.
Mr E is still at the shop, we are sussing out his diff and what parts are needed. The thread here on JF covers the conundrum, which diff type does it have? Will know probably this week, when rear end is taken down, off the car.
While there are purists here,, it' s your car, and your choice of how to proceed. There ARE bg discussions on which is the RIGHT oil, the right tires, is it OK to change from the factory paintcolor, etc. Howver , it's one of the best places for answers.
You WILL get there, keep us posted on your progress!
What and Where?
