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Thoughts on replacing the leather steering wheel & shift knob with wood? Did any SII FHC cars come with wood options? With my BRG/Tan combination I think it would look nice but thought I’d seek advice and opions. Obviously, I would keep the original parts if I moved forward with replacement. Thanks!
Hi Smonop,
I believe that the series 2 had a wood rim w/o polished spokes as standard, I know that that the series 3 didn't have a wood rim. So, I check the JCNA judges guide and here is what it states.
STEERING WHEEL:
16" with three brushed aluminum spokes with 5 holes each supporting wood rim. Gloss black trim ring surrounds nonfunctional clear plastic horn push with Growler motif that is non functional - horn operated by pushing in on turn signal stalk See reference B, page 71 for picture
Note: Polished aluminum spokes per Series 1s are wrong on Series 2s
Some feel the 16" rim is too large and replace it with a 15" rim.
STEERING WHEEL:
16" with three brushed aluminum spokes with 5 holes each supporting wood rim. Gloss black trim ring surrounds nonfunctional clear plastic horn push with Growler motif[size=33px].
[/size]Interesting, thank you Bob! I’d be fine with the original 16” steering wheel, it’s what was on my Porsche 550 reproduction and I had no issue with handling. Also, I’m only 5’6” 135 pounds so slipping in and out of the E Type and under the steering wheel isn’t an issue (you want tricky, try the 550, far less room all around). Anyone have a recommendation concerning purchasing a wooden steering wheel or are they all fairly similar? Thanks again!
Hi Smonop,
I want to come to your town and go for a ride! :-)
It cost about $400 to have one restored, I have had 2 done, one was a rare early series 1. I would check ebay (but be careful) or craigslist. I would also want the original hub which is riveted on.
I replaced my shift knob (gear knob over here in UK!) with a wooden one. Handmade by a british guy living and working in the States. Choice of woods. I said I wanted a Growler in the middle, and he found a tie pin growler that fitted perfectly. Steel thread insert, fits great.
It's not original (I kept the original) and would fail any concourse inspection, but I just drive mine! And I like how it looks and feels.
Don't know if he's still around, but he was based in Altamonte Springs, FL 32714 and email was chaplin696@aol.com
phone 407-774-5332
Nice chap called Saul
Charged me $89.95
here is a photo I chose a walnut burr
Just a comment on wheel finish. 1969 S2 cars had polished spokes on the wheel but 70-71 fell under the anti-dazzle rules and were brushed finished. All reflective chrome in front of the driver was muted to include the WW nozzles and vent to bonnet rear.
I replaced my shift knob (gear knob over here in UK!) with a wooden one. Nice chap called Saul
That’s beautiful! Thank you! BTW, my first name is Sal (Salvatore) and in the 80’s, some of my grad school classmates from small midwest towns hadn’t heard the name Sal, assuming I was Saul. My close pals took note how often it happened and started greeting me loudly as “SAUL!!” when first seeing me in a hall, etc.😁
Just a comment on wheel finish. 1969 S2 cars had polished spokes on the wheel but 70-71 fell under the anti-dazzle rules and were brushed finished. All reflective chrome in front of the driver was muted to include the WW nozzles and vent to bonnet rear.
Interesting, so they were polished, not brushed aluminum. Good to know!
Question - is switching out the steering wheel a straight forward job? I haven’t looked in my manuals just yet on the “how to” but have noted that it appears I will need to purchase / acquire the aluminum hub & rivets along with a center cap (assuming I can’t or shouldn’t use my current center cap from my leather steering wheel).
Should be dead easy to get off. Your horn isn't on the centre push but on the end of the indicator stalk? So centre badge should just lever out (mine falls out!) With no nasty wires underneath
Should be dead easy to get off. Your horn isn't on the centre push but on the end of the indicator stalk? So centre badge should just lever out (mine falls out!) With no nasty wires underneath
Good to know... I had removed the button previously because I was a moron and thought my horn was under the button and not functioning... oops.. the horn button is indeed on the stalk.... I reaffixed the center cap with a mild adhesive because mine too would fall out.... 🥴
Just to help complete the picture, the would be center "Horn" push button on my steering wheel is held in place by small set screws that screw in from the side of the steering wheel hub. If you loosen the big wheel positioning hub and pull out the steering wheel, you should be able to see the small set screws, or at least the holes for them.
Bill.
I'm not sure about the series 3 wheel, might well be the same, but the workshop manual for the series 2 shows the thin wooden rim, no rivets, 5 holes per spoke as per above picture.
Smonop,
I just checked some photos of some very correct original series 3 cars, and your steering wheel definitely looks to be a series 3 wheel with the "Horn" button of a series 1or 2 steering wheel. So, this may change how your center horn button is attached to the steering wheel. Be careful removing it. The trim around it can be fragile.
Bill.
I love how much I learn here! First thing I noticed when looking at my steering wheel this a.m. were the 4 holes per spoke, immediately recognizing “Uh oh, that ain't right...” Pretty sure it’s not 16” either, going to measure in a bit.