I really miss my ‘17 S and came across a ‘21 SVR with 61k miles that I’d like to daily. What things should I look for? What concerns have you experienced?

 

if you can get the money for the 2026 SVR It has oem metal



cooling pipes that will make the SVR last forever

 

2025.5 models also included the metal coolant pipes, but the newer model years may exceed the OP's budget. Considerable savings could be had on a 21, and have enough leftover even after replacing the pipes down the road.

 

I would have no hesitations on a '21 SVR if it has been well maintained. I've now had five of the AJ133 5.0 V8 engines (3 jags and 2 Land Rovers). They have been pretty bulletproof. I got my 2010 XF V8 SC to about 100k miles. Same with the two Land Rovers. No engine work beyond an occasional cooling pipe as others have mentioned and a water pump on each. I now have a 2017 SVR (F Type) and 2025 SVR (F Pace) and both have been tremendous

Regular maintenance and care, and quick intervention if any issues are found. I don't have too much worry about the plastic cooling pipes - yes it's a pain but all modern cars do the same. And the limited parts I have had to replace hasn't been an issue

I do think worth regular check of oil (I've never had a leak on any of mine) and of the coolant reservoir is an easy early indication of potential issues

Are you buying from a dealer / sales room with some sort of warranty? At 60k miles it's quite possible that the seller has an issue and is selling rather than dealing with it. So I would suggest some sort of warranty (90 days?) and perhaps also an independent inspection incl pressure testing the cooling system. That way you know what you are getting into.

 

Thanks for the responses. 2025s are outside my budget. The SVR is at an independent dealer and it’s been on their lot for 10 months, which is a concern. It is about 5 hours away so I haven’t been able to inspect it other than photos online. Not sure how I could arrange an inspection.

 

They are generally pretty good, if the engine feels smooth and strong when you test drive, I wouldn't be afraid of it. The Fpace overall is a decently reliable chassis, and the 5.0 is not bad, the fear on here over outlet pipes is overblown. Even the metal pipes will need o-rings after a few years, same as the plastic ones. Just part of the maintenance plan at this point on most newer cars with plastic cooling system components.

 

Is it the blue one at Autos of Chicago?

 

Yes. Do you know anything about it?

 

I don’t know anything specific to that car, but here are a couple thoughts:

I too own the F Type V8 and have had a bunch of F Paces. I thought wanting an F Pace SVR was a no brainer. Then I test drove one. I was very disappointed. The F Type R moves so effortlessly and then you can unleash the roar if you want to. The F Pace SVR needed the roar ALL THE TIME to get it to move. With this car being 5 hours away for you, I’d try to find a similar one closer to test drive.

Secondly, Auto’s of Chicago is not a respected dealership. I mentioned them when I was at a JLR dealership north of Chicago when we purchased our F Pace 35t and the salesman rolled his eyes. If you google Auto’s of Chicago reviews they are pretty badly reviewed on some sights. This would give me caution about driving 5 hours to do business with them.

 

You should definitely drive one to see if it's what you like. I have no trouble feeling the power in mine - it really goes! But I drive it in dynamic mode as I find it a little too tame in normal. Whereas rhe f type is edgy even in normal

Car fax looks pretty clean. It's a lease car, looks like a 3 year private lease with nearly 20k miles per year so prob lots of highway driving. Better for wear than start stop local drives
JLR serviced although car fax may be missing a service between the 24k and the 48k (else that's a long time without servicing).

I personally have less concern about whether the dealer gets good reviews as they bought it off the lease company at end of lease and are selling it. They haven't had any role in its life before that. So if you like the car and pricing is good then it's just making sure you get some sort of warranty from them on issues that you might discover..

Also - maybe minor but would get a view on tire life, brake pad thickness etc. Set of tires will run you $1200 and brakes all round are 2k at dealer and prob 1k with an Indy. So unless you are handy yourself would make sure they aren't selling you a car that you have to put a few thousand dollars into basic maintenance

Hope that helps. Let us know how you get on.

If it's been on the lot a long time that may just reflect that these are not well known cars and 44k for a 5 yr old 60k mile car will be a hard sell to someone who doesn't know what it is

Btw - I would shop around too. I've bought two used jags from across the country over the years. You can be picky about what you want.

 

Good advice, but not sure the prices quoted are in 2025 USD. 22" SVR tires will be $2000 and add another couple hundred with an alignment afterward. JLR dealers will only replace rotors and pads together, so you're looking at $6K at a dealer.

 

Sadly you're prob right on the tires. Picked up some road debris on the Land Rover which also has 22inch tires and jt was nearly $500 for the tire installed...

On brakes my dealer has typically been $2k per axle (they insist on rotors too). I usually do my brake work myself as it's vastly cheaper so I may be out of touch with latest costs. 6k - wow... . But - Indy would be half the price or less at least.

It's a good reminder for the OP - the car may be 40k used but costs of parts and repairs will be commensurate with the 100k sticker price of the car. That said, this forum (and either DIY or a good Indy) can save you a ton!

 

I would have a series concern on the plastic pipes, we change about 10 cars a week after blow out,
with a few blown head gasket, easy upgrade and you don't
have to worry about it again, thats why JLR started putting the
Metal pipes in 2025, just do it and be done

 

Do you mean the HG failures are a consequence of coolant pipes failing?

 

Absolutely!

If you don’t pay attention to the coolant level and keep an eye out for leaks then a small leak can turn into a large leak which turns into an overheat which almost always turns into a very bad day for the motor. You can not rely on the temp gauge for timely notification.

 

Yes, the cars do not like to be overheated, if you get the warning message for overtemperature, you cannot keep driving at all, it tells you to stop and turn off engine, you have to do it asap. If it's just coolant leaks and you fix them it's never an issue, but people ignore it until it's overheating, then ignore that, then cry when the car needs an engine. Worse on the V6 than the V8, but very similar.

 

Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I'm going to continue to keep looking and try to test drive one closer to home.

 

Take to heart the comments posted above the temperature "indicator". We don't really have a gauge. The needle will stay at the mid point of the dial over a wide range of temperatures. Many have reported over heated and blown up engines without the temperature gauge moving until it was too late.

Some of us myself included use Torque Pro and the Jaguar Custom Pid pack. This gives you a real time actual coolant temperature.
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Let us know what you think once you've driven it. You can also just go to dealer and drive a new one. Still same engine and setup.

I still love it every time I press start!