2014 V6 Base DEAD Engine
#61
Run 3 bottles of PEA (injector cleaner) through the car before doing an oil change. (that will take about 1000 miles) This dissolves most of the crud throughout the engine and its perfectly safe.
The one I use is
https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Add-1-Tank-Pwr-Renew/dp/B00OL1CWQE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550867387&sr=8-3&keywords=crc+one+tank
Then before you dump the oil, run this engine flush:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-95030-Engine-Flush-oz/dp/B001DKN9MM/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1550867486&sr=8-28&keywords=engine+flush
Also perfectly safe. It breaks down the 'glue' in engine oil and will give you a more complete oil change.As SinF was saying the DI is another bear and it does a number on injectors, the same nano particles clog up the injectors, which I suspect is your issue.
Remember to dump the oil after using so much PEA. It does not burn in the combustion cycle, which is why it works, but it also means you will be half quart too much oil and it will change the viscosity.
#62
I think your biggest misfire was in putting your picture on here. This ain't a social site, dude; and I for one do not care what you look like. I would much rather see a picture of your ride inasmuch as this is a Jaguar F-Type forum. Hint: Do you see that anyone else has posted their picture?
#63
I think your biggest misfire was in putting your picture on here. This ain't a social site, dude; and I for one do not care what you look like. I would much rather see a picture of your ride inasmuch as this is a Jaguar F-Type forum. Hint: Do you see that anyone else has posted their picture?
#64
Do this.
Run 3 bottles of PEA (injector cleaner) through the car before doing an oil change. (that will take about 1000 miles) This dissolves most of the crud throughout the engine and its perfectly safe.
The one I use is https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Add-...s=crc+one+tank
Then before you dump the oil, run this engine flush: https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-9503...s=engine+flush
Also perfectly safe. It breaks down the 'glue' in engine oil and will give you a more complete oil change.
As SinF was saying the DI is another bear and it does a number on injectors, the same nano particles clog up the injectors, which I suspect is your issue.
Remember to dump the oil after using so much PEA. It does not burn in the combustion cycle, which is why it works, but it also means you will be half quart too much oil and it will change the viscosity.
Run 3 bottles of PEA (injector cleaner) through the car before doing an oil change. (that will take about 1000 miles) This dissolves most of the crud throughout the engine and its perfectly safe.
The one I use is https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Add-...s=crc+one+tank
Then before you dump the oil, run this engine flush: https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-9503...s=engine+flush
Also perfectly safe. It breaks down the 'glue' in engine oil and will give you a more complete oil change.
As SinF was saying the DI is another bear and it does a number on injectors, the same nano particles clog up the injectors, which I suspect is your issue.
Remember to dump the oil after using so much PEA. It does not burn in the combustion cycle, which is why it works, but it also means you will be half quart too much oil and it will change the viscosity.
#65
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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The injectors are very pricey and you have to buy them in matched sets (one set for each bank), the spark plugs are relatively cheap (around double the cost of "ordinary" plugs) but these are not DIY jobs unless you are very handy with the spanners and because they are complicated jobs that take a lot of time the labour cost will be yuuuge, especially at a dealership.
#66
I don't think so! (cheap that is).
The injectors are very pricey and you have to buy them in matched sets (one set for each bank), the spark plugs are relatively cheap (around double the cost of "ordinary" plugs) but these are not DIY jobs unless you are very handy with the spanners and because they are complicated jobs that take a lot of time the labour cost will be yuuuge, especially at a dealership.
The injectors are very pricey and you have to buy them in matched sets (one set for each bank), the spark plugs are relatively cheap (around double the cost of "ordinary" plugs) but these are not DIY jobs unless you are very handy with the spanners and because they are complicated jobs that take a lot of time the labour cost will be yuuuge, especially at a dealership.
#67
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Check out these two threads from someone (Big Will) who has done it on his XFR: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-145292/
and :https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mi-xfr-213633/
Now this was an XFR not an F-Type and it's possible there is more room to move in the engine bay of the F-Type but I doubt it.
Before I got the F-Type I had a 2010 XFR so the same vintage as Big Will's, and my Mark 1 eyeball measuring instrument tells me the room (really lack of room) is much the same.
#69
Trust me, the spark plug and ignition coil replacement on the AJ133 and AJ126 are not "lego easy", not even close.
Check out these two threads from someone (Big Will) who has done it on his XFR: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-145292/
and :https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mi-xfr-213633/
Now this was an XFR not an F-Type and it's possible there is more room to move in the engine bay of the F-Type but I doubt it.
Before I got the F-Type I had a 2010 XFR so the same vintage as Big Will's, and my Mark 1 eyeball measuring instrument tells me the room (really lack of room) is much the same.
Check out these two threads from someone (Big Will) who has done it on his XFR: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-145292/
and :https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mi-xfr-213633/
Now this was an XFR not an F-Type and it's possible there is more room to move in the engine bay of the F-Type but I doubt it.
Before I got the F-Type I had a 2010 XFR so the same vintage as Big Will's, and my Mark 1 eyeball measuring instrument tells me the room (really lack of room) is much the same.
#70
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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I ask because you mention "mild misfires at idle recently" and it seems you want to cure this by replacing the plugs and injectors.
That is probably using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut and no guarantee it will fix your problem anyway.
The injectors should last the life of the car (they are not service items) although they have been known to fail or leak, and a cheap bottle of injector/fuel system cleaner (eg BG44K) might do the trick.
The spark plugs are meant to last at least 96,000 miles before they need changing (per the service schedule) and they will probably last a helluva lot longer than that before they cause problems.
How many miles has your F-Type done?
#72
#73
Hi Arash,
I live in the UK and my engine on my XE-S has suffered catastrophic failure due to oil level / oil starvation. The car was purchased brand new - it has full main dealer history and has never onces asked me for oil on the digital display. - the car is fitted with a redundancy feature should the oil level sensor fail and this has also failed. the car has always indicated the oil level is "okay" - i have therefore never put oil in the car during the 4 years of ownership / i also never felt a need to as its always been fully serviced at main derlership.
Even now with no oil in the car at all (all in a drip pan in the dealership) the car is still indicating the oil level is "okay" - if this warning / sensor / fature has failed on your car. it is jaguars responsability to fix this.
You mention your exhaust - If the car was manufactuerd wrong from day one - then (in the cournty at least) the car was not fit for the intended purpose, regardless of aftermarket parts (that we all know have no impact on the oil sensor) it is the responsability for jaguar to prove the car was not wrong from day one?
As a result and after a battle with JLR they have finally agreed to pay in full for a brand new engine. This is in excess of £15,000 here in the UK.
Good Luck
I live in the UK and my engine on my XE-S has suffered catastrophic failure due to oil level / oil starvation. The car was purchased brand new - it has full main dealer history and has never onces asked me for oil on the digital display. - the car is fitted with a redundancy feature should the oil level sensor fail and this has also failed. the car has always indicated the oil level is "okay" - i have therefore never put oil in the car during the 4 years of ownership / i also never felt a need to as its always been fully serviced at main derlership.
Even now with no oil in the car at all (all in a drip pan in the dealership) the car is still indicating the oil level is "okay" - if this warning / sensor / fature has failed on your car. it is jaguars responsability to fix this.
You mention your exhaust - If the car was manufactuerd wrong from day one - then (in the cournty at least) the car was not fit for the intended purpose, regardless of aftermarket parts (that we all know have no impact on the oil sensor) it is the responsability for jaguar to prove the car was not wrong from day one?
As a result and after a battle with JLR they have finally agreed to pay in full for a brand new engine. This is in excess of £15,000 here in the UK.
Good Luck
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