Well Higgins is officially over 100kmi now.

So I'll be taking the XFR down for some major maintenance in the coming weeks. I'm Just going to add to this thread as I complete the jobs.
Oil filter change, oil pan inspection and valve deposit cleaning.
While the oil and filter change are self explanatory, the oil pan inspection was something I decided to do after a couple of members (Dave T and Mark N) had catastrophic engine failures. The bolts on my lower oil pan showed signs of seepage, so I figured now would be a good time to have a look inside and re seal the oil pan.

Lower oil pan off, NO METAL SHAVINGs, BUT, there was some rtv sealant particles on the oil pump pick up screen, I carefully cleaned them off. my fault for using a dab of rtv to seal the oil drain bolt. Other than that the pan was all clean.


Broke this torx bolt off removing the oil pan. This bolt gets the coolant wash when the water pump goes. it's an open hole on the top so the coolant sets up as a kind of thread locker after so many heat cycles.


Oil pan side of the broken bolt. Really clean inside my oil pan, 2000mi oil changes work well.

It was a pain to get out. But going slow with a big pair of Visegrips did the trick.


ALWAYS chase the threads of problem nuts or bolts if possible before re installing new or used hardware.


The oil level/temp sender mounts to the oil pan, nothing wrong with mine but Jag wanted $25 JUST FOR THE DAM SEAL! I found one at a local seal specialty store for $.97..lol


I just wonder why Jag uses so many of these weak *** torx fasteners. The stamping out of the star actually takes away metal from where you need it when a torque load (tightening or loosening) is put on it, MB found this out when they tried to use them for head bolts. I swap them out for flange bolt whenever possible.

Intake tract and valve cleaning

Been using this for the last 30kmi, great reviews and pleanty of YouTube vids showing it works well, just follow the instructions. The problem is the E throttle on the XF makes it impossible to keep the engine running at 2500 rpm while emptying the can through a vacuum port, so I bought 6ft of 1/8 vacuum line.


And ran it in to the boost bypass valve vacuum port, and now I can spray the can empty from the drivers seat.
Be sure and run it hard after the treatment and heat soak, the change your oil.

Stuff I've already done
Door rattle, and easy fix for an irritating issue, seems the foam insulation on the window drive cables disintegrates. Remove the inner door finisher, remove the speaker, reach inside the speaker hole and you can feel the cables. I just slit a piece of 3\8 fuel line, put it over one cable at the meeting point and then zip tied the cables together..NO MORE DOOR RATTLE! so easy I did the still quiet passenger side too.
Cabin Filter
PS fluid, just pump it out and refill
Engine air filters, K&N
Diff gear oil

Still to do
Spark plugs
O2 sensors
Trans fluid and valve body seals
Driver rear brake caliper piston seal
Driver rear upper control arm boot
Tank Fuel pump and filter
Big fun ahead..lol

 

Terrific! Great to see it hit six figures. What else are you doing - cooling system plastic (or already done)? Any mods at the same time??

 

 

Did all the plastic a little over a year ago.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ssover-187802/
Mods are all done.

 

I use Super Tech (Walmarts brand) Synthetic 5w20, $17.99 for 5 qts I change my oil every 2 to 4kmi.
The dealers/Manufacturers oil recommendation is usually whatever they will make the greatest profit margin on. Long oil change intervals, in the long run only benefit the dealer.
https://blog.modbargains.com/15000-m...l-change-myth/

Pretty much sums it up.

 

I use Super Tech (Walmarts brand) Synthetic 5w20, $17.99 for 5 qts, and I buy my oil filters on line in bulk. I change my oil every 2 to 4kmi.
The dealers/Manufacturers oil recommendation is usually whatever they will make the greatest profit margin on. Long oil change intervals, in the long run only benefit the dealer.
https://blog.modbargains.com/15000-m...l-change-myth/

Pretty much sums it up.

 

Congrats on getting Higgins to 100k Here's to another 100k of smile-heavy motoring!

I'm 9k miles behind you, and all's still running smoothly.... touch wood.

 

Same here Will, I use Aussie brand Nulon 5W20 full synthetic in my F-Type and before that in my XFR, around $35 AU for 5 litres (waaaaaay less than the recommended Castrol 0W20 Unobtainium) and I change the oil and filter every six months which works out to be around every 3,000 miles for me.

 

More 100kmi maint.

This is a coil connector, 4 years ago when I changed the plugs they came off with the grey secondary click lock with no issues. Not so lucky this time as under hood conditions have taken a toll after 8 years, all 4 of the grey locking tabs broke off when I removed them this time.

SMH...


And you know Jag doesn't even sell them.. I found them online, 10 for $17 and free overnight shipping. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/1-...e-connectivity If your Jag is over 6 years old you should have some on hand if your changing the plugs. Notice the date stamps of 09 for the old, one and 17 for the new one.


To change out the connector, pull out the purple secondary terminal lock.


Untill it clicks.


Then your going to slightly but firmly press in on the primary terminal lock. it looks like an inverted V embossed in the metal.


At the same time your going to give a tug to the wire for that terminal.


Boom.


Then just transfer it to the corresponding terminal on the new connector, you should get a slight click once it's fully seated. Once all 3 wires are locked in, press it the purple secondary lock and that's it. Just go slow


Left bank (THE HARD SIDE) of Spark plugs, belts and oil pan re seal are done. Starting the right bank and O2 sensors tomorrow, then a trans service, rear brake caliper rebuild and grease boot replace.
The list grows shorter. I'm behind as I had to do some emergence work on the GF daughters car last days off.
Other details are in my previous on the XFR sparkplug change.

This is the set up I'm using for the plugs this time. A 13mm Gear Wrench coupled using a Gear Wrench 3/8 wrench drive. It works well and the short size not gives you a better feel for what the socket and plug are doing, it limits your torque in tightening.


Gonna give these a try this time, the Champions I put in before did very well though.


Old and new.

Belt time too



It's pretty straight forward. You will need a set of belt servicing tools to release the tensioners. Mine from Harbor freight worked just fine.


You will be removing all of the tensioners and idlers, so have a diagram of the set up and belt routing handy.


REMEMBER THIS IS AN ALUMINUM BLOCK SO EASY ON THE ANTI SEIZE! TOO MUCH CAN LET YOU OVER TIGHTEN AND RIP THE THREADS OUT.

 

CONGRATS on 100K - hope you get to 300K, and then some!

My odometer is only slightly behind yours, but I had that new motor installed around 7,000 miles ago so new motor, old car!

 

Great thread as always, @Bigg Will .

For what it's worth, you can order almost every connector in the car, you just need to know the part number, which you can get from the Electrical Reference Library, available on the Jag portal. Subscription prices are not the cheapest, but I've been amassing a collection every time I need to look something up. Example connector spec for the throttle connector attached, YPC909120 is the part number. You can even find it online if you then search by that part number.

 

Lol, I just Googled the part number on the connector.

 

This is the vent tube that attaches to the top of the throttle body and back of the left valve cover, removing it will give you some much needed space when changing the plugs. Mine was cut so i was replacing it.

Back in the noseeum zone.

The best way to remove this tube is to release it from the throttle body, then while pushing it back, release the squeeze couple by pressing on one side at a time.

The right bank.

Once all the stuff like the rubber cover is out of the way. I had to replace the coil connectors on this side too.

It's a straight shot to all 4 plugs.

 

A warning, always take the time to look around and see if anything just doesn't look right, Jag seems to always take the more complicated route. I've never moved this hose that comes off the PS oil cooler, but because of it's routing and age, swelling allowed it to park its self against the power steering pump pulley.

Resulting in this!

 

On my 2012 there is a hose on the left side of the engine as you look in that sits very close to one of the large pulleys. At first I thought it had been moved during maintenance at the dealership but I couldn't see any other place for it to lie. It's not restrained in any way but it does have a large block of rubber that surrounds the hose right in the spot where the pully would make contact. I guess Jaguar opted for a sacrificial part in case the hose contacts the pulley rather than designing the routing so no contact can occur.

 

I've looked at that hose many times and wondered WTF was Jag thinking?

 

The O2 sensors are not for the faint of heart, the tools I needed to get it done. 2 are mounted in the cats (Easy to disconnect and replace) and 2 mounted in the exhaust manifold, just above the flange. The 4 old O2 sensors are in the box.

Idk where I got this O2 socket but it's real handy because it lets you use a 3/8 drive, 1 in socket or 1 in crows foot (That in turn lets you, with an extension turn an object 180° counter to the tool) This is a must have for the flange mounted upper O2 sensors.

This ground needs to be disconnected and moved out of the way.

The other PITA, the upper O2 sensor connector.

To disconnect to o2 sensor, this connector needs to be flipped, but it has to be removed from it's mount, to do this pry the up on the tab with the rectangle (That's the lock) and slide the connector to the front of the car. then flip it over and press in the locking tab to release it. A long flat screwdriver is what I used to do both.
Remove the lower 2 sensors first to give you more room to access the upper 2 sensors,
You will break the plastic wire guide clips, but they can be had on Amazon. The install is basically the reverse of the removal.

 

Beautiful write up Bigg Will....you are leaving out the good part about the left bank plug chop process(aka..The freaking hard side!!!). Come on....tell them about the wire harness.

I am in the process of taking the top end right now....good to know you and @davetibbs found a source for the connectors cause my grey lock clips also broke on a few coil connectors. I was not looking forward to using ye' ol' electrical tape.....replacing them is easy enough.

 

Hey, that's in the first write up, not re hashing just telling what I did different this time..lol

 

BTW...maybe you or @davetibbs might want to sell me their crankshaft remover kit. It is put of stock everywhere I have looked.