I have a 2016 F type R convertible with 26000 miles being shipped to me now, I was wondering other than the coolant upgrade kit what I should do to it when it gets here. Is the supercharger coupler an issue on this model as a shop I spoke to said there was a TU for that year and they shouldn't have to swap it out when they were doing the cooling kit. Was just wondering if there was anything else super important while the car is ripped apart to do now other than that and the belts. Also if anyone has suggestions for mechanics in the RI area to do all this i'm still looking around as the ones i've found so far are out of state and it would be a hassle coordinating rides back and forth and whatnot.

 

Coolant pipes and belts degrade with age, so a good start for freshening up your new car. Brake fluid should be changed too unless you have records that it was done less than three years ago. Diff oil would be good too, since the friction plates in there do wear. I wouldn't worry about the S/C coupling unless there's evidence of a problem. The mileage is still pretty low. Look at the tires too. It's within the realm of possibility that they're the originals, and if so should be replaced.

 

This is an "it depends" kind of situation. Do you know the maintenance history of the car? If not, brake fluid, oil change, diff fluid. Definitely cooling pipe upgrades. New belts when cooling is done. Water pump would be optional, but personally I'd swap it since most of the cost will be labor and that's all part of the cooling update. In reality, the water pump should be fine with that few miles, but its kind of a while you are in there thing. Check the dates on the tires and change if five years or older. Depending on how it's been kept, you may need from none to all the suspension rubber replaced -- much is hard to replace independent of the suspension piece it's installed in. Have them check the spring isolators as they tend to disintegrate over time. Check the date on the battery and replace if three years or older.

 

https://www.carfax.com/vehiclehistor...MZ528WWBUYssvE this is really all i know about the maintenance history, it mentions 80k mile maintenance but not too sure what that means. thank you for the input

 

Link doesn’t go past paywall. How about a link to the Cargurus listing?

The ‘16’s were sold with a “free” maintenance schedule. The last factory paid one was the 60,000 mile which should have included spark plugs. If the “80K” maintenance was done that just means they did whatever is listed as “to do” at 80,000 miles.

The pinion seal should be inspected. Mine was leaking when we purchased it at 55,000 miles and was changed under warranty. Not a small job, labor wise. I always look for regular oil changes in the 5,000-10,000 mile interval. If the PO’s only did the scheduled at 16,000 mile interval that would give me pause. I also look for dealership service as apposed to franchise maintenance. Once you take possession, I’d schedule a post buy inspection including a 4 wheel alignment at your local JLR dealership. Yes, it might be a little expensive but A) you need an inspection by a knowledgeable JLR guy anyway and B) you need to have a good relationship with the service department and C) if there is anything that needs doing the dealership may take pity on you and do it under a CPO warranty. Totally at their discretion. No, I’m not saying you need to take it to the dealership for everything but there are plenty of things that will come up where they are the best option and you shouldn’t be a stranger. We just purchased a 2020 P300 Pace and the rear inspection port in the head was leaking oil. Apparently “they all do it” and my dealership swapped it out for free even though the car was well out of warranty.

Things I would either DIY, depending on your abilities, or have a JLR knowledgeable independent do are the cooling pipes, WP, belts and tensioners and brakes. First, don’t assume the independent will be cheaper. Get a quote first. Second, one benefit to doing an independent is they are more willing to do aftermarket parts. You will want Porterfield R4-S brake pads but not change out the rotors (just saved you a couple grand right there), you will want the new JLR crossover pipes but you may want the RKX everything else.

 

I bought my 2016 in 2018 (with about 13k miles) and since I only drive it like 800-1200 miles annually, I get an oil change once a year and starting at year 3 of ownership I would add one service per year I.e. battery, supercharger belt, then coolant, then brake fluid etc. - and of course cabin and air filters every two years or so. I know the parts don’t get worn and it lives in climate control but things get old and wear with time. in your case, anything that isn’t new or can be proven would be a good candidate for service.

 

They basically go by miles instead of years. My car had its 16k maintenance done at 500 miles because that's all the miles it had in its first year.

 

I've said this before:

Our '14 displays the maintenance required message on a time basis.

 

As did my '18 and does my 2022.

 

All of them do, it's 16k/1yr, 32k/2yr, etc. So an 80k is a 5th year service, and why you see it on a relatively low mileage car. Most of the maintenance items should be done on time anyway, fluids, filters, rubber parts wear out with age not just use. That's why they specify the plan they do. I don't agree with doing spark plugs early, Lambo when I worked there was every 2 years for plugs, I did sets of plugs on cars with 700 miles on them, which I feel was a complete waste, but it was on the service menu so it got changed.

On the newer Ingenium cars they went to 21k/2yr intervals, which is insane but it is what it is. Change your oil yearly even if you don't put a ton of miles on it, can't hurt.

 

It really does depend on the maintenance history of the car. Regardless of what JLR recommends, for an AWD vehicle like this, for less than $1000 you could do all the maintenance needed to ensure a very long, happy ownership experience.

• Transmission Service (new pan, use OEM/ZF brand) + 6 quarts of Lifeguard 8 Fluid ~$250 - FCP Euro makes a complete kit
• Rear differential (Castrol BOT 720 - 75W/90) some have gone with a 75W/120, but oem fluid is the first mentioned ~$60
• Transfer Case - OEM Spec Shell Transfer Case Fluid TF-0870 ~$35
• Front Differential - Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 in my fill. (Note this is also BMW - #07 51 2 293 972) ~$60
• Supercharger Oil (5 oz, Supercharger online sells a kit, could also remove symposer at the same time - we offer a delete kit $99) - ~$30 (order two 4oz bottles - ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-4041 Synthetic)
• Pick your favorite JLR spec 0W-20 oil (Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 / Special Tec OW-20), Motul, Amsoil, just ensure it meets spec - OEM filters are inexpensive ~$120
• Upper and lower coolant pipes, but if you go down that route, might as well switch out plastic for aluminum, many places sell complete kits (or you could hold off until there is an issue) ~varies
• Brake fluid flush - ATE SL6 Dot 4 ~$70
• New plugs - NGK Spark Plug ILKAR7C10 9494 (watch out for clones, recommend FCP Euro) ~$100
• Replace supercharger / accessory belts ~varies by brand

There are some really good FAQ / DIY on these all throughout these forums

 

At this point you are approaching the 10 year mark so they call for belts and coolant by age, but as above some of the extra fluids would be a good idea.