For anyone that goes looking, it appears that this is part number T2H50454. Good luck getting one. I have one on back order with my local dealer. Currently showing some time in February.

The other clips I need come with their hoses, so I'm going to see if I can 3d print some functional replacements.



The right one is the spacer for the bleed/overflow hoses that connect to the throttle body and crossover pipes.


It's a swivel, though it doesn't need to be, for this application. It will be pretty straight forward.

The left clip attaches to the coolant return hose (C2P24831) and the cross brace behind the cooling fan.



It will take a little thought to come up with an equivalent design that can be printed, but it should be doable.

The only other clip I need -- it was just missing -- is the clip that goes between the symposer vacuum hose and the crank case breather hose. It's a double clip that should be pretty easy to print as well.

 

Yesterday, I put the charge air cooler and all the plumbing back in.





Also got the supercharger tensioner and belt in.


Now, for my notes on the process. First, a word of warning to anyone doing this...

Be extremely careful with the charge air cooler. In general, never set in down, with the radiators facing down. The radiator fins are exceedingly fine and fragile. Under no circumstances should you try and wipe them off. Even compressed air, or brakcleen sprayed at an angle can deform them. If you plop the cooler, radiator down, on top of the engine, in prep for dropping it in, you will have a bad day. Straightening bent up fins is doable, but if you attempt you should acknowledge that you have about a 50/50 shot of just needing to order a replacement cooler, unless you are very steady handed and have very fine tools to work with.

No, I did not have to order a new air cooler. This is just a pre-emptive warning for folks.

I reused the pins I made, for installing the supercharger, for installing the charge air cooler. I screwed them in on the four corners, dropped a new gasket over them, the slid the cooler down. I screwed in all the other bolts, to finger tight and then pulled the pins and put their bolts in.

Putting the plumbing back is pretty straight forward. My only recommendation is the lay all the pieces in place, before you start connecting fittings, just to make sure you have everything where it is supposed to go. Pay attention to what goes over, and what goes under, and things like that.

I started to re-install some of the air ducting and realized that the mounting tabs on both mid pipes were busted. I'm assuming this happened in whatever incident bent the headlight mounts before I owned the car. Replacements have been ordered.

 

Our new-to-us F came with several clips un-mounted.
That was one of the first things I 'fixed' on ownership.

You could always put small black zip-ties into the square ends of the broken clips to support the intended components.

HTH

 

GerbilEngineer my PCV diaphragm had a hole in it so that was why I replaced them. I wondered the same thing after reading the thread you linked. Maybe the springs take a set after time and heat work on them?




Still no reply from RXK with their experience. Did more digging but can't find any mention in the JLR service stuff about the spring length.
So still a mystery to me!
.
.
.

 

Dual 8mm clip test worked like a charm. I'll print the proper one in black.



This was the very easy one. Since its supposed to be somewhere around 10F this weekend and even though the car is in the garage, it will be colder than I care to work in, I'll work on the more complex ones this weekend while the ice and snow falls from the sky.

 

Got a notice from SNG Barratt that "one or more items in my order are backordered" and coming from the UK. Estimated 7-10 days but, with the winter storm, who knows. My guess is that they will arrive right before I leave on a business trip in Feb.

I've had quite good success with the hose clip.







No point in trying to model the "zip tie" side. I just made pass throughs for a couple of regular zip ties. The swivel prints in place. The catch is just as big a pain to unlatch as the originals are. I'm drying out my black nylon, to print out some this evening.

 

Replacement intake pieces showed up late last week. I got to make good progress this weekend.

I put in place the hose retention clip that I 3d printed. Works like a champ. I printed it in nylon, so it's unlikely have any heat or longevity issues.



Then it was time to tackle the air filters. I've had the filters since I started the project, I just hadn't bothered to do them until now. Oh my, this is probably the worst air box design ever conceived. Given the form factor of the car, I'll forgive the location -- at least somewhat. Why couldn't they just make a nice clip together air box? Thin, deep thread screws, into plastic, in a location guaranteed to pick of road gunk... well, three of the screws broke off when I attempted to loosen them. Two on the right side and one on the left. I was able to convince the two on the right side to come out when vice grips and penetrating oil. The left hand side was a lost cause. The little bit of the shaft, remaining, sheared off almost level with the top side and was too close and fragile to pliers on.




The air filters themselves were not horrible. The random collection of flotsam and jetsam in the bottom of the airbox was interesting, to say the least. This is the "cleaner" of the two.


I was trying to figure out what I was going to do with the left side air box, when I noticed that its mounting bracket is cracked. Not the whole way through, but enough that replacing it would probably be good. The left side bumper is where the car had an impact in its past. This is hopefully the last remnants of that damage.



Now, about replacing the airbox. Oh my.... The airbox costs nearly as much as a damn headlight. (ok maybe not that bad) Left side air box assembly is $1,850 on SNG Barratt. I started looking around and the cheapest I found, for a used assembly, was about $800. So maybe I won't replace it. I decided to leave the problem of getting the rest of the screw shaft out and repairing the mount for future me. My goal for the weekend was to get the car running. Not driving, just running.

The left side still sealed up with one screw missing and it's just on the rubber grommets for now. Right side, I ran zip ties through the two holes with missing screws and tightened everything down.

 

It runs!


Almost importantly, it doesn't seem to leak. To be fair, it haven't driven it or run it up above about 3000 RPM. However, it has been fully bled. I took two gallons, plus what ended up on the floor and in the engine valley, out and I put about 2 1/2 gallons back in. No real issues bleading it. I removed the air bleed/return line from the overflow reservoir and dropped it in the open fill mouth. Works well, with the caveat that there will be a steady flow of coolant out of the hose when the engine is running, so you can't pull it out unless you shut the engine off, or you'll make a big mess. Also note that you shouldn't overfill the reservoir as air in the system will expand when it heats so the reservoir level may actual go up before it goes down. The mess on my garage floor reminded me of this.

A bit of running, filling, running, filling, squeezing the line to the heater core, and crossing my fingers and the system bled just fine. Heater runs good and hot. Engine comes to temp and stays. With the exception of the coolant from my not paying attention to the overflow tank, there wasn't any sign of coolant anywhere on the floor, and no hot coolant smell either. It will get driven a bit before I put the splash guards back in place, so I can check for any signs of leakage once I can get it out and road test it.

Until then, this part of the project is all but complete.

 

That is great news!! Congratulations!

 

Just double checking - did you completely replace the coolant or partially?

What was the bleeding procedure you used?

 

To bleed, I pulled the bleed/return line off the reservoir and put it in the filler opening so that once coolant started flowing, it was just going back into the reservoir. I filled the reservoir to "full", then let is drain down and repeated until the coolant level stayed full, then started the car. It immediately sucked the coolant level down well below the fill line and I added coolant to top it back up. I then went and turned the heater on full high. Back to refill the coolant again. I let in run, keeping an eye on the coolant levels until the engine came to temp. Once that happened, I shut it off and let it sit for probably an hour -- Superbowl weekend and I was doing multiple things. This was where I was reminded of basic high school physics -- air expands when heated. The coolant level had dropped so I topped it off -- and probably got a bit above the full mark -- and started the car. As it came back to temp, the overflow tank demonstrated why it is also called an expansion tank as it overflowed. The engine came back up to temp, but the heat was not yet blowing even warm air. Feeling the heater line, that connects to the rear crossover, showed that it was still cold. I massaged it a bit, giving it a couple of good squeezes. In doing so, the coolant level went up and down in the tank and then some substantial bubbles came out. That started the heater warming slightly. I did that a second time, with less bubbles. After a couple minutes, the heater has was warm and approaching hot and checking the cabin, the air was blowing warm to hot. I let it run a bit longer and heater output continued to rise. At that point it was less than pleasant to be in the cabin, give the outside temp was in the mid 70s. At that point I called it "good enough" and shutdown. Once things cooled a bit, I put the purge line back on the tank, installed the purge plug, topped off the coolant level and capped it off. I'll check the levels several more times as I do things that involve running the engine.

 

Got it.

If one wanted to completely replace the old coolant with new, do you have any tips? Can it be done without introducing air into the system (like a brake fluid bleed)?

Planning to do this job soon and would like to keep the surgical field (and floor) as dry as possible!

 

@GerbilEngineer Is that Nylon filament carbon reinforced? What specific filament are you using? What printer do you have?

I got a Creality K1Max not too long ago... reason for asking. I have only printed using ABS, PLA and PETG... would be cool to try to print a few things using nylon filament.

Are you sharing the STL files? I will try to get the clips in advanced, but would be nice to have a plan b if I can't get them.

 

I can't immediately come up with a way you could do a complete replacement without getting air into the system. The shop manual just addresses the problem by using a vacuum purge system attached to the overflow/expansion chamber. There is pretty much no way to keep the floor clean when you pull the block plug. The actual coolant flush procedure is to drain what you can from the radiator drain, fill with pure water, drain, fill, drain, then start filling with pure coolant and adjusting until the correct 50/50 ratio is achieved.

 

I used pure Nylon 6 for printing these -- I actually have a roll of Kodak (yes, that Kodak) branded Nylon 6. The higher flex of a non-reinforced filament is actually beneficial in this use case since we aren't looking for structural rigidity in these clips, just to provide separation. I printed them on a Prusa Core One L. Nylon is not easy to print. You will almost certainly need some sort of adhesion promoter on the print bed. I've used both Magigoo and plain old glue stick. These were small parts so warping isn't really problematic. If you print something large, then an enclosed printer, preferably with a heated enclosure, is pretty much a requirement, to address warpage.

 

I'll get them available when I get back from travel.

 

Thank you!! I will go ahead and order a roll of Nylon filament to give it a try.

 

Yes use a vacuum filler. Wish I had this years ago. One and done and no air pockets.
Just plain works. Now don't let the tool suck any air in while filling or you will need to start all over again.
.
.
.

 

"Yes use a vacuum filler. Wish I had this years ago. One and done and no air pockets.
Just plain works. Now don't let the tool suck any air in while filling or you will need to start all over again."

I would really like to see a Video of someone using this method on the Jaguar. Any One???

 

I have been searching for one... no luck so far. I will share if I find one... I do find several done in different cars, but not a Jaguar or even an F-Type.