Those are LR011221 (the current Land Rover part number).


I've already got those on order as I completely trashed one pulling the supercharger out.

 

Next few posts a duplicates from my VAP supercharger pulley install thread. The coupler comes with the cooling pipe upgrade kit, so it would be getting installed as part of this effort as well.

Other activities have kept me busy the last few days, but Friday I started tackling the supercharger. The oil drain plug is in an unfortunately place.


I expect the inside of the back plate is not flat, so when you turn it on its end to drain the oil, you won't get all of it. Lots of folks only seem to drain 50-70ml out. I started there, then went at it with a syringe and a piece of 2mm id PTFE tubing -- I could bend it 90 deg so that I could get it down to the lowest points on either side. I manage to get 143ml out. I figured that was pretty good for 155ml capacity, though I'll probably give it another go, later after letting it sit for a while.

Nasty stuff... The oil looked pretty decent, but smell and consistency is ... unique.



Next up will be to split the supercharger, to swap out the coupler. Had to go get a bigger pry bar last. The RTV, between the front and back, is going to take some effort to get to let go (a bit of foreshadowing here).

 

Alright kids... Don't be like me! I fought with splitting the supercharger for a couple of hours -- to the point of chewing up the pry tabs a good bit. Then I saw the bolt down the intake that I had missed.


Probably three or four times, I went looking for the bolt I missed. Each time, I overlooked the one in the intake. One it was out, the two halves came right apart. The coupler compartment was definitely nasty.



Cleaned both surfaces and put in the new coupler. Razor blade to scrape the old RTV -- use plastic scrapers if you can. It takes practice and care not to nick the surface with an actual razor blade. A quick buff with 1500 grit sand paper took any remaining RTV off.




And finally, my attempt at a "1mm" line of RTV. The bit area on the left is where I smudged it with the side of my hand, accidentally.



I didn't take pictures, but the results, once I put it back together and tightened things down, wasn't horrible. I didn't get excessive squeeze out. A bit more than what I removed when I was cleaning the old off, but not by a lot. So the supercharger is back together. New oil should arrive tomorrow. Unfortunately, the hose clips that attach underneath are on another order that is delayed, so it will be a while before the supercharger goes back in the car.

 

I really appreciate all the detailed descriptions and photos. I will definitely be using this thread and other references when I do the cooling system job on mine.

 

@GerbilEngineer Many thanks for the outstanding write-up and photos. It's a lot of extra work on top of what you are already doing mechanically.

BTW I believe you hold the record for volume of SC oil removed - 142mL is unreal. Most of us have never gotten near that amount with aspiration, and even directly pouring the oil out after removing the SC. More like ~ 70 mL to the point where some feel the factory under-filled the SC.

I really hope the first time you turn on the ignition after all this work is a (roaring) success!

 

Yes there is a pry point built into the snout for getting it off. It's on the bottom so not real obvious.





The snout is attached with Loctite 515. This is specified by JLR. It's not RTV. Not sure if anything else can be used or not. That's why it's so hard to separate the two parts. It's really glued on there!



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Mine wasn't hard to separate, at all, once I got the intake bolt out. The mating surfaces are quite flat and there was very little actual material between them -- unlike you average oil pan, for example.

I used Permatex Black when I put it back together. I've seen people note that Permatex Red is an equivelent to Loctite 515. However, Permatex Red will break down in oil, and there is definitely oil floating around inside the supercharger. In addition, I don't see the super high heat resistance of Red being needed.

In reality, if you were correctly judicious with application and cleaned up any significant squeeze out inside the intake, I'm pretty sure just about any gasket maker material would suffice here. You've got two flat machined surfaces with enough structure to not flex on their own, in a (relatively) low pressure air environment. Unless you took a chunk out of one of the surfaces with a wayward screwdriver, the sealant is almost extraneous.

 

New supercharger oil and drain plug came in late last week. Put the new oil in yesterday.

Compare the new stuff to the picture of the old above.


I'd hate to see what it would look like after 100k miles without change.

With the oil changed, I started putting things back together. The intake plenums are on.



The remnants of the symposer are back on.



Got the angle grinder and took the heads off some M8x1.25 bolts to make the supercharger alignment pins, for re-install. I rounded the edges so they won't scratch up the mating surface on the intake plenums.

 

I haven't re-installed the supercharger yet -- probably tomorrow.

As a side note -- Yesterday, I powered up the car for the first time in a month, so I could dump the ECU and send it off to VAP for tuning. I power the car with a 30 amp power supply connected to the power terminals in the engine bay. Power supply was set to 13.5V. General load was about 8 amps with the driver door open. I did not connect the battery. Worked fine.

Don't do what I did.

Yes, the car powered up and I was able to dump the ECU without any problems. However... when the car is powered up, it does several things. For example, when it detects a key it pressurizes the low pressure fuel feed by running the fuel pump for around 10 seconds. When you turn the car on, it cycles the AC/heater and runs the aux coolant pump for a few seconds. This is fine except when the car is the state mine is in, with the charge are cooler and supercharger removed and all the hoses disconnected. The garage still smells a bit like gas. I spent a fair amount of time cleaning coolant out of various nooks and crannies in the valley. Luckily, I had all the intakes plugged with rags. I only had to blow a bit of coolant out of one of them.

So while you have all the coolant and fuel lines disconnected, to do this job, don't connect the battery to the car, or otherwise power it up unless you absolutely have to. It will make a mess.

 

Yeah all JLR techs learn that the hard way, never ign on or even open the door when the fuel lines are open if you don't have it powered down. Only takes one mess to remember that.

Also had a guy hop in a car and attempt to start it because he wanted to put it in neutral with the blower all apart, to push it back inside. Tech who took it apart left the coils plugged in or something, immediately set the engine compartment on fire. Melted all the plastic parts, close to $10k in damage done.

 

After feeling like things were going backwards with the rear suspension, I figured I'd swap out the PCV diaphrams. To whoever noted that there wasn't really any way to get the caps off without breaking the clips -- never have truer words been spoken. By about the 4th clip, I was playing "how far across the garage can I make plastic clip bit fly?"

Otherwise, very straight forward, and easy with the super charger and air cooler out. Only thing to note, the two units have different springs. I my car, an R, the front spring is the short one and the rear is the long one.


The rear has the long spring. The diaphragm replacement kit includes both springs with each diaphragm+cap. I was confused why each one had two springs until I took the originals out of the car.




I had already replaced the front diaphragm and cap when I took this photo.

 

Hmm while changing out the PCV valves, ever thought about a catch can setup? Not sure how much blow by these cars experience, but they are FI...

 

I know there are other forum members with catch can setups. This is a direct injection engine, with PCV into the intake, so you will get build up on the intake valves and oil and gunk in various places in the intake path. I cleaned the intakes a bit and wiped the oil out of the various nooks and crannies in the supercharger and air cooler. The valves and intakes were black, but really didn't have much in actual build up. Were I driving this car hard all the time and/or putting serious miles on it, a catch can wouldn't be a bad idea. But it's not really pressing right now. Next time I take things apart, to this degree, one will probably go in.

 

Yesterday was way less productive than I had hoped, but progress was made. Supercharger is back in the car and the last of the new metal cooling pipes is fitted, though not yet bolted in.

I mounted the throttle body and remnants of the symposer while the supercharger was still on the bench. That let be route and clip the throttle body coolant line and made it so I didn't have to fight the three symposer bracket bolts with it in the car.




And this is where I hit the first time killer. The wiring harness under the supercharger, that goes to the knock sensors and has the symposer solenoid connector, has cable clip on it -- circled in red below.



In prep for putting the supercharger in, I was double checking all the clips and fittings. I could not find the hold that clip fit in. I spent probably 30 minutes double checking everything for a missing bracket of other part that I missed somehow. It wasn't till my second pass through my pictures, that I realized that the mounting hole did not, in fact, exist. It used to clip in to bracket coming of the symposer connection on the intake.




Since the original retention point was gone, I snipped the clip off and used a couple of zip ties to attache it to the grey cross pipe in the pictures. Don't cinch the zip ties down too much as the pipe is rubber. I just wanted to ensure the harness wasn't flopping around and chaffing.

Next came the other big time sink -- getting the supercharger back in. If you are doing this yourself, find a friend to help put it back in. Yes, one person can do it, but two people would make it so much easier. Primarily, the second person can clip in the two electrical connectors prior the the supercharger being fully seated, so that you don't have to contort your hands in unnatural ways. V6 guys will have it much easier here. It took quite a bit of back and forth to get both connectors to click into place. A second person would also help with being able to properly route cooling and vacuum lines as the supercharger goes in, rather than after the fact. Oh, and your back will thank you too. Final caution, make sure you don't trap any harnesses or hoses under the plenums as you set the supercharger in place.

But, its in place.



With that done, I fitted the upper cooling pipe.



It's not yet been bolted down.

This is when I had another "oh crap, what am I missing" moment. The small barbed fitting, on the coolant hose coming from the throttle body, doesn't connect to anything. It's not actually drilled through. Again, I spent a good bit of time double checking things and looking for the coolant hose that I missed.




With that, I decided it was time to straighten up the bench and call it a day.

 

Thanks for the spring length differences. I had not seen or heard of this before and when I replaced mine they appeared to all be the same length? Nothing noted in the shop manual either? I installed the better RXK versions and have asked him to check into the spring lengths. He told me that if they were different lengths then I had the wrong springs. Car running fine with equal length springs but it may not be right?

If anyone has more information of this I would love to hear it.
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"Yes, the car powered up and I was able to dump the ECU without any problems. However... when the car is powered up, it does several things. For example, when it detects a key it pressurizes the low pressure fuel feed by running the fuel pump for around 10 seconds. When you turn the car on, it cycles the AC/heater and runs the aux coolant pump for a few seconds. This is fine except when the car is the state mine is in, with the charge are cooler and supercharger removed and all the hoses disconnected. The garage still smells a bit like gas. I spent a fair amount of time cleaning coolant out of various nooks and crannies in the valley. Luckily, I had all the intakes plugged with rags. I only had to blow a bit of coolant out of one of them."


Looking forward to your first second start-up. Hopefully no coolant leaks after your meticulous work, as has happened to some who tackled this project...

 

I only have a copy of the V6 shop manual, which doesn't have the dual valves.

I have found one mention of different length springs on the board, but his assumption was that one was worn out, rather than being different length from the beginning.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-rant-265238/

As with you, car was running fine with different length springs. The old diaphragms were in fine condition and I could almost certainly have gotten away with not doing them. However, it is a "won't know until you do" kind of thing. I replaced like for like, so :shrug:.

 

The place I worry about leaks most is in the places where I put old hoses back on with clamps. However, all my coolant hoses were still nice and flexible so I'm hoping they re-seal well. I'm also not running it immediately after installing everything. The hoses will have a couple of weeks to reform where clamped, before they have any pressure put through them. Here's keeping my fingers crossed.

 

If you are worried about leaks at the junction of hoses and aluminum/aluminium components, apply a non-hardening sealer such as Hylomar Blue.

https://hylomar.com/product/universal-blue/

It will seal against leaks, yet will allow disassembly the next time you need to.

 

Thanks Buff - Yes I am worried after all the careful work there will be a leak and the SC will have to come off again. Just ordered some Hylomar Universal Blue for a "belt and suspenders" approach.