Not sure what a video would do? The operation is the same for any car? All vacuum fillers are identical not any difference just because it's a Jaguar?





Hook up the vacuum filler to the top radiator tank. There will be different size rubber adapters to connect the tool to the radiator tank top. Pull a vacuum collapsing all the rubber coolant hoses and hold for 15 minutes or so to check for leaks. Then open the valve to suck the new coolant into the engine. Be aware that vacuum is NOT pressure! So there is a chance that you get no leaks under vacuum but you could get a leak under pressure. Also DON'T let the tool suck any air when filling or you get to do this all over again!

I use the OEM brand but these are all the same so the brand does not matter. A quick search will bring up hundreds of them.
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For anyone that wants to print these. The latching clip is in a print in place, articulating part. Internal tolerances are set for printing in nylon, on my printer. If I print it in something like PLA, it will feel pretty loose.

 

As a note, there are at least two different drive belt part numbers for the F Type.

C2D61184 -- seen listed both as "to vin k25725" and also "From Chassis/VIN RA722857"
T2R91501-- from vin k25726

I managed to order the wrong one, originally. The correct one for my car is T2R91501.

They are definitely different. The C2D61184 belt has a smooth back and is a couple of millimeters narrower. T2R91501 on the left, C2D61184 on the right.



I can't say whether they are the same length or not -- any difference would be minor, if there was. The C2D61184 belt does work on my car, at least for the short term. I figured out I managed to order the wrong belt while chasing a belt squeak -- turned out not to be the drive belt.

 

Thank you!!!

 

I had ABS loaded so printed a test with that. They work great. Even articulation worked fine and tight. Time to load Nylon filament to test it again. Thank you again for sharing the files.

 

ABS is likely to be better, given the usage of these parts. I have noted that the dual clip is a bit more flexible that desired, when printed in nylon. The glass transition temp of nylon is quite low, relative to the operating temps in the engine compartment, it just has a very, slow transition. So it will get softer and more flexible for a long time before it starts to actually melt. ABS goes from stiff to melted in 5-10 degrees. Despite ABS having a somewhat lower melting point, it staying rigid, right up to melting is probably better. I just happened to have nylon on had, as a high temp filament.

 

What I have is a new roll of Creality Hyper PA6-CF, Nylon Carbon Fiber filament. Still sealed in its packaging. That is what I was planning to use for these.

 

Yeah, once you add carbon fiber to the mix, things change. I'll be really curious to see how things turn out.

 

Hi everyone,

May I ask how long it took you to replace the parts?

TOPIx estimates 4.6 hours of labor for the coolant lines.
We also want to replace the water pump and thermostat.

My car is parked in an underground garage, and we're planning to rent a workshop with a lift for the repair.

Thanks!

 

My tech buddy who does at least one of these a month, mostly on LR’s, took 6 hours. Included heater manifold and symposer delete which you should definitely plan to do. Also included WP, thermostat, pulleys, tensioners and belts. I changed the oil in the SC while it was off. There is no need for a lift for this service.

My SC came off easily as it is an AWD with the hood vents set more outboard. If you have a RWD plan to wrestle with the SC to head corrosion.

 

Thank you for your reply.

I already have an aluminum heating manifold here.
However, I've read that the aluminum part can sometimes leak.

Does anyone have experience with this?

I'm still undecided.

 

With all the proper tools laid out, all the proper parts you need, experience of doing it before, and no problems? Six hours seems reasonable. Were I doing it again, with all parts and tools, I'd give myself 9 hours and be proud if I beat that by much. Unless you have ready access to Jaguar parts, I'm not sure I'd do it in rented space unless you can rent for a decent amount of time. It's not a hard job, but there are a lot of places where things can go wrong -- break a vacuum line, break a connector, pinch a gasket, etc. Anything like that will have you scrambling for parts while paying for shop space. The only thing that needs particular care is the air charge cooler. Be careful in handling and where you sit it. You do not want to damage the cooling fins.

As far as aluminum parts leaking, I would put that on cheap aftermarket parts, rather than the fact they are aluminum. A poorly molded plastic part is just as likely to leak as a poorly machined aluminum part. Cheap gaskets and o-rings are also not unique to aluminum parts. The only reason I would say that aluminum might be more prone to leakage is that is more complex to produce a good aluminum part than it is a good plastic part.

If you have the older, seamed plastic parts, then don't be undecided and get them replaced. If you have the updated seamless plastic, then its not as critical.

 

One thing we saw was the rear water manifold in metal comes with different seals compared to the JLR ones. These aftermarket seals have had some problems reported. I used the after market metal rear water manifold but used JLR seals. These sorta looked like O-rings but they are not. When I took out the OEM seals when replacing the rear water manifold they did appear to be flat.





So far I have about 5K miles on it and no problems. I also have the metal rear water manifold and we now have 2 choices in this. Solid construction or the 2 piece version with screws. Mine is the earlier 2 part version. I took it apart to drill out the internal passages and remove the casting flashing before re-sealing it.
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Where can I source the one piece rear manifold?

 

Thanks for the tip about the seals.

I have the older, two-piece version.

 

The rear manifold gaskets, that came with my EuroAmp kit, looked similar to this. The pictures on their website show the o-ring version.

 

Sorry I can only find the 2 piece rear metal water manifold now. Seems the one piece version has disappeared!
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