Hello,
Can someone point to where i can buy a new SVR F-Type battery? My current battery does not seem to charge.
I am assuming that the battery in the trunk that needs to be changed.

thanks

 

Besides your local Jag/Land Rover dealer? I bought an interstate up here in Canadia, Model# MTX-49/H8

But what do you mean it doesn't charge..via a trickle charger setup at home or while driving?

 

But what do you mean it doesn't charge..via a trickle charger setup at home or while driving?
I can drive for a hour and it still say low battery. I don't think the battery was replaced for ~5 years. So it is due for a new one.

--

 

You're probably correct, however a lot of shops can test your battery if you don't have the means to do it yourself. Might be worth checking out before forking over that kinda bread.

 

Here’s what I installed in 2020. I installed the same battery in my XE this winter.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...chText=Battery

Note that Autozone will test your battery for free. You should inspect the battery - the first one I got had a cracked case near the positive terminal, which they said isn’t uncommon. Also, best practice is the reset the BMS (using an OBD scanner) so that it knows there’s a new battery.

 

Also that you should probably do yourself a favour and charge up the new battery before swapping.

 

Good call. We always recommend fully charging the battery before installation.

 

Nothing special about the battery in an SVR, it's the same battery as any other F-Type, so don't fall for being charged an "SVR tax" on it.
Just make sure you get an AGM of the same size and shape and at least the same CCA and AH as the original.

 

If you’re interested, here are the specs for the OEM Varta battery…
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8z43w...=e4yg468z&dl=0

 

Interstate at Costco, less than $200

 

Am assuming your alternator is ok too, right?

 

That's where i was going with it.

 

yes i think its, i drove back from work and the battery warning went away. i will monitor and drive a little more frequently to see if it can maintain the crank current.

 

My independent shop would just test both battery and alternator in 5 minutes and then give me the data I need to make an informed decision - given our relationship, probably for free. If I were to get a battery, they'd offer to let me get an Interstate AGM of the proper size for probably the standard cost (competitive with anywhere) with their shop warranty if I had them install it - which would be probably 30-40 bucks more...for them to lift the sucker and then make sure the car was not wasting charge - that is what you really need to consider - my state emission testing unit that uses OBDII fails to disconnect properly and makes my car drain the battery. Disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes fixes this for me.
Note, I installed my own battery. It is pretty simple but the twist lift is a textbook set up to hurt your back, so be careful.

Lots of threads on the subject.

So,

1. Rule out a need for a power control unit reset. Try to reset your power control unit by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes.
(you will need to train the windows and rear power lift door if you have one if you do this....threads on this on this forum).
That may the issue and voila, done.
2. Then, if you have a friendly independent shop, get a diagnosis of alternator v battery...but #1 above is key.
3. Worst case buy a battery (or an alternator....that is for another thread perhaps)- but know how to reprogram auto open/close on the windows and the rear hatch. Basic AGM batteries not at the dealer are not the expensive...maybe 200 or 250 tops (perhaps well under that). A local JLR dealer used to charge 700 and would "throw in installation" with that....go figure. It was everything I could do to not laugh out loud at that price. Not sure they cover putting it in fully charged for "only" 700. ..
4. Optional, I have a CTEK unit that has an AGM renew option. Small cheap one. Some say renew (or whatever it is called) doesn't work on AGM's and I am not sure, but once I did that and nothing bad happened and the battery is still going strong. Placebo effect for sure.... If you do a lot of short drives (which is not great for the car anyway), you may not be allowing the car to charge up - it needs time....people on this forum know a lot more than I do so hope I did not just foobar things.

I had tried an anti-gravity lightweight 60a 1100 dollar batteries when it was on sale. My particular car and the battery did not get along so I returned it. AG said it happens. FYI only. It would have saved about 30 lbs....maybe 40 if you included the 10 lbs lost from my wallet....they gave me a full refund without issue and were a great company. I'd use the AG if my car tolerated it.

Good luck.

 

Just putting this out there. A lot of people chase a battery/charging issue when the root cause is very , very frequently the ol' obdii drain. Twice I go the error message that the battery was low and the car couldn't seem to hold a charge. Each time, it was just a few days after dealer service and they hadn't existing out of their obdii session correctly.