Since my (new to me) car is in for a few different "common issues" right now (fuel filler, O2 sensor) I told them what happened and asked them to look at the battery drain issue. I'll make some noise when I go to pick it up and they inevitably tell me, "they all do that."

As for removal procedure the scanner I have is a bluetooth unit with no power switch or anything, and I don't recall seeing anything in the Torque app to power it down from the phone. I made sure to exit the app and shut off bluetooth to disconnect before removing the scanner. Not sure if the car should be on or if I should shut the car off first then remove the scanner.
The other annoyance is that I don't really know how to even test for this - try removing things in a certain order, wait a few days and see if the car is dead? No way.

 

If the light on your flasher button stays on for more than 45 minutes after exiting the car, you have the problem.

 

Are you talking about the blinking, dim START button, or the Hazard indicator (4-way flasher) which normally stays lit for about 5 minutes after shutdown?

 

Hazard button.

 

OK good to know, I'm used to making sure that warning triangle turns off.

 

That’s the one.

 

I'm on my 3rd straight overnight trickle charger, battery still won't show green fully charged status in the morning.
Battery only 1.5 yrs old.
Should I bring to dealer to have it checked out?
or at least to AutoZone or other auto parts store to have battery checked out?

 

Jaguar pulled off a Formula E victory today, and they have an EV on the market, but they can't solve this issue?
The dealer told me they performed an update to the battery control module. We'll see what happens next time something is plugged into the OBD2 port.

 

Lance if a CTEK trickle charger is connected during the OBDII procedure, do you think it will work to not cause the battery drain issue?

 

It is possible to drain the battery if the remote fob is too close to the car when it's parked.

It happened to two people I know. One left the fob in a jacket pocket, the other in her purse.

Both were within 10-15 feet of the car in the garage. Two different makes. Both service managers told them it is not uncommon.

Just a thought. And a cheap and easy fix.

 

I am aware that a stabilised power supply (not a battery charger) with sufficient output is required, 13.4V at 55A in case of our F type, but wasn't aware of the requirement to disconnect the battery during software updates


Could you please clarify this point as the guidance I have states connection of power supply to the battery

 

Wow, that power supply provides 55 amps! Must allow starting the engine during software upgrades.

 

I never disconnect the battery for applying the tune but do make sure the battery is fully charged beforehand and also use a 25 amp CTEK supply (CTEK Multi US25000). I used an amp meter to check how much current was being drawn from the supply during the tune application and found it to be about 5 to 10 amps. It only takes about 5 to 10 minutes to apply a tune.

 

I doubt it. It is probable that with a 30 to 60 amp power supply, that the battery does not need to be disconnected. A 3 amp trickle charger wouldn’t be enough.

 

Here it is for those that want to pick up a new one for $600 US plus. Saw a used one for $300 on ebay.

https://www.tools-supplier.com/produ...CABEgISYvD_BwE

 

I've heard of this problem before.
Thing is, I also park the car in my "under main roof" garage and plonk the key fob on a table about 8 feet from the nose of the car (so about 14 feet from the battery itself I just measured it!) and I have never had a single battery problem although the car is now 4.5 years and 50,100 km old and still on the OEM battery.
Maybe this is because I always double lock the car and I hook it up to a battery tender about once every two weeks?

 

The NAS models don’t have the double lock feature and I’ll leave my key right in the car with the car unlocked for days at a time. It still shuts down after about half an hour and the hazard button light goes out.

 

So the plot thickens!
Why do some have battery problems and others do not despite identical situations and habits, enquiring minds would like to know.

 

Or, in this case, we see the same battery symptoms manifest the themselves for totally different reasons. In my case OBD access, in others key proximity. These cats each have their own personalities. What kitty do you know that always behaves itself?

 

So, I got my '16 F-type last year, and took it for NYS inspection, the first week, and 3 days later, came out to the find "low battery, start engine" warning. Drove car awhile n parked it. About four days later, stone dead.
So now, last Saturday, it goes for inspection again, and last night, stone dead.
Has anyone figured out why the OBD use is causing this? Does a "battery reset" correct it? How is the reset done? Is it a simple disconnect n wait a few deal?
AND WHY HASN'T JAGUAR FIXED IT???
Also, why won't it take a jump from another vehicle using the front terminals?
Putting an electric release on a car with a trunk mounted battery borders on criminal stupidity!
SHAME ON JAGUAR FOR THAT ONE!