For the first time, I got the “Brake Pads Worn” warning message. I asked for a quote from my local dealer and it was…$3000. I’m not cheapskate, but $3000? On every other vehicle I’ve owned, I’ve always done the brake pad replacement. Is it that difficult to do on this car that I should pay that much for the service?

 

I assume that includes rotors? I’ve never done brakes before, but I expect to do mine this year. Lots of threads on here on changing pads. Apparently, the tricky part is the anti-rattle clips (something like that), and there are some good techniques for dealing with those, in one of those brake threads.

 

Check rotor for wear… if there is no need to replace rotos just get new pads and the sensors and do it yourself. Even if you have to do the rotors, it is an easy job.

Sorry, no way I would pay for brake job when it can be done fairly easily at home…

 

The brakes on your F-Type are common floating caliper style and a piece of cake to change both pads and rotors, I have done this several times and I'm a feeble old fart with average knowledge and only a few tools.
You have an R so you will have the 380 mm front and 376 mm rear brakes, make sure you order/get the right ones.
As DJS says lots of threads and posts around here about DIY changing pads and rotors, search is your friend.
$3,000 US is a sick joke, you can DIY after-market rotors and pads for a fraction of that, $1,000 US max and possibly as little as $500.
Popular options around here are Porterfield R4-S pads and R1 Concepts rotors but there are plenty of others.
Also check the wear and condition of your existing rotors as they may not need renewing at all, it is standard JLR dealership practice to claim that once the pads need renewing so do the rotors but this is sales BS, the stock rotors will quite easily last for two sets of pads.
Yes the front brake anti-rattle clips can be a bear to refit but I have found that using zip-ties solves this problem, again search is your friend.
One last tip - you need a 9 mm hex driver for the front caliper slide pins, not a common size.

 

And don’t forget the wear sensors.

 

Just to start, $3000 is a BS price and the dealership should be ashamed. However, they are not and the mark up is high. As stated below, Porterfield R4-S pads and R1 Concepts rotors are recommended heavily, and they do a great job stopping the car as well as reducing the dust from the OEM brake pads. Unless you are hard on your brakes or heavily track your car, the rotors should hold up for 2 sets of pads. You can check this my measuring the thickness of the rotor and if it is over 50% gone, go ahead and change them. Someone has actually posted the dimensional numbers on here, but I can not recall them at this time. SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND... The brakes can be done by yourself quite easily and take no longer than a normal brake change.

Get the Brake Pad Wear Sensors (2 required) because they can break without showing any sign of breakage.
Learn how to put the Parking Brake in maintenance mode. This will help you a lot and will save you from fighting with it when you are actually doing the brake replacement.

Finally, you might want to do a Brake fluid system flush while you have the tires off. It is a heck of a lot easier than taking the tires off twice. This depends on age and mileage on your car of course, so it doesn't have to be done right now.

Good luck

 

The procedure to put the Electric Parking Brake (EPB) into maintenance mode is towards the end of this document. Lots of other interesting stuff too.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lsrji...=4odkpcmy&dl=0

 

Some good videos that show the process:

 

Thank,you all very much, this is a,lifesaver!

where do,you,get,the sensors? I see pads and rotors but not the sensors.

 

Save yourself the $$$ and go aftermarket pads and rotors. Since the message triggered, your brake pad sensors will need to be replaced.

 

Rock Auto has MANY sensors available for the different varieties on F-Type brakes. They do not seem to be difficult to find.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+sensor,10283

Select the correct one for the brakes you have (steel rotors or ceramic). Brembo would be OEM...Need two in total, one for the front and one for the rear: Front and Rear. But again, check that you are selecting year and model of your car.

 

Only two sensors altogether, one front and one rear.
Left side front and right side rear.
That said I have never bothered with them on any of my three Jags including the F-Type, I disconnected them on all three. They are more trouble than they are worth coz they are prone to failure (many reports across all Jags that use them), either not triggering when they should or more commonly triggering way before they should ("false positive").
But you can't just yank them off/out they need to remain plugged into the sockets up in the wheel wells otherwise you will get a constant "brake pads worn" message on the dash, I simply disconnected them from the brake pad ends and tied the cables up out of the way with zip ties.

 

Thank you. I meant to say that only two, in total were, needed, but managed to make the comment incorrectly on my post. Updated that now so that it was clear. Thanks again.

 

I did this job in 2 days because I went slowly with an emphasis on safety (all 4 wheels off, 2 hydraulic jacks deployed, completely on jack stands), and I wanted to clean and repaint my calipers.

Here are my tips:

I always place 2 wheels under the car - in case one of the jack stands go I have a reasonable chance of survival if I am underneath. I also deploy 2 hydraulic jacks as well. "Belt and Suspenders"

The front tension clip is not too difficult to remove if you look at how it is designed. Some careful levering with a large flat screwdriver and large pliers will do it, with care if the calipers are freshly painted.

The attached prongs/clips of the new brake pads are often bent from packaging/transit and need to be reformed with pliers. Definitely not "Plug & Play". One of the new rear inner pads was particularly difficult to get in because the prongs were way off and needed many attempts and direct visualization underneath the car. I had to really twist my body and use a flashlight to see why it wouldn't seat with my torso directly under the rear rotor. Took some effort and cursing but it went in after many reforms of the prongs.

Use liberal brake grease on any metal parts of the pad that touch the brake assembly. Wipe any excess off the rotor or pad surface as best you can. Squealing brakes are no fun.

Go gentle with the new sensor replacement - these crack easily.

I was paranoid about introducing any air into the brake fluid system, so be careful.

You need to be reasonably strong or have a helper - wheels and jacks are heavy. I have a small garage so needed to carefully move things around to be able to do this. The risk of muscle and/or tendon injury is real.

Do others have any tips?