Stwsam, the joy of driving the F-Type MT will not fade. I'll be keeping mine as long as I am still driving.

 

+1 on both the kudos to Unhingd (helped me too!) but also congrats on the new clutch. You'll lose some of the pops and crackles but well worth it.

 

I had read this about the new clutch and I will be carrying several magazines for my 9mm loaded with blanks to fire the pistol out the window on downshifts to thrill the kids!

 

An upshift at around 5500 rpm will elicit a massive single explosion backfire. A perfectly executed double-clutched downshift will elicit plenty of automatic gunfire on decel. You need to drive it that way for awhile before the computer figures out what you are trying to do.

 

So the computer will attenuate to better conform to your own driving style? Or you are just saying one's driving style will surely confuse the CPU? =)

I guess I am pleased this is bumped, because I would love to just chat about MTs....

It's always so weird to me when people say "MT? You just got blown off the line", as if *even if you drag a lot*, that is the full driving experience. LOL

I found this interesting:
TL;DW -

1) Do not rest hand on gearshift
2) Do not leave in-gear while at stop light
3) Never use clutch to hold yourself on a hill (feather throttle to find sweet spot of no rolling downhill)
4) Should not apply a lot of throttle when not at high engine RPM (example, do not floor it when going 40 mph in 6th gear)
5) Do not rest foot on clutch when driving





I sort of "knew" about now resting the hand heavily on the gear shift... I remember that from my Jeep.. You could feel the grinding vibrate into your hand. No bueno.

But I asked somewhere else.... riding the clutch while in reverse. Is that bad, just a matter of fact? Or is it ok because the clutch is doing something different than normal forward motion?

 

Every time I tune the car, it seems the overrun is reduced until the computer adapts to my driving style.
I was aware of all the do-nots. However, hand resting is ok as long as you don't put any forward or rearward pressure on the stick to cause synchronizer wear. I've never worn out a synchronizer.
Yes, unless you are drag racing backward (ala "The Blob") you have to feather the clutch when in reverse to maintain control.

 

To get fastest time off the line with a manual gearbox takes some abuse. Unlike normal starts, you rev the engine into power band then quickly release (but not drop!) clutch. Have traction off as you can't help but produce a bit of wheel spin right at engagement point. Doing this will produce shock through the drive train, but you will take off close to full power. If you do this regularly, you will need new transmission and possibly differential and central bearing.

 

I'll have to respectfully disagree here. You can execute the quickest starts without shocking the drive train by simultaneously flooring the throttle and releasing the clutch slowly enough (still within milliseconds) to allow the engine to reach peak torque as quickly as possible (~4200 rpm). The wear and tear will be on the clutch, not the remainder of the drive train. On the F-Type with the DSC fully engaged, you can still get slight wheel spin right on the edge of traction. If the DSC kicks in, you're using too much throttle for maximum acceleration. The DSC serves as a great training tool.

If people were using the technique that you suggest, I can understand why manufacturers started to install the clutch delay valves. I have driven all my cars hard and except for clutches, have not ever had a drive line failure.

 

IMHO probably more to do with the very low gear ratio in reverse than the actual reverse direction (other than human needing to be more in control...)

I was curious about this delay valve thing, and found this very interesting web site. You guys are probably way beyond this now...

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6562

 

The clutch delay valve on the F-Type can actually be removed very easily by extracting it from the inlet side of the "clutch hydraulic pipe" that enters the transmission. This can be done from above at the left rear of the engine compartment.

1. Remove pressure line
2. Remove rubber spacer in pipe body
3. Remove check(flapper) valve
4. Replace rubber bushing and pressure line.

I removed that valve when I was fighting with the bad first generation clutches. I have since replaced it to provide full protection with the +70hp tune in place.

 

New car. new drive. Car shifts with a completely different clutch pressure. Engagement in upshifts is what i would expect, a kick in the pants each time you hit the next gear. Before the car was just a gentlemanly shift going upwards.

I feel the real change was the pressure plate. Of course if you increase teh pressure, you have to alter the fibers of the clutch to withstand the add pressue, heat etc.

Thinking back to the old days of tuning british cars, if you pepped up the motor, you better jump up your spring rate on the clutch. My guess is Jag wanted an easy soft clutch so as to not receive complaints from the journalists when writing about the manual transmission. I see so many writers, mostly young guys, complaining or exaggerating about building up calve muscles to drive this car or that car. Bottom line, if you want to make power and transfer it from a motor to a differential, you have to increase pressure on the friction point.

If you have a 6speed and it is not of the new generation, get it updated. What a change. One more time, kudos to Unhingd!

 

 

Cheers and congrats. =) It's so much fun. Huge thank you again to Unhinged / Lance.

 

I am so glad I found this thread. I have a very early '16 F-Type S 6MT delivered delivered late June 2015 and it has had two clutch replacements already, once in January and another in June of 2016. Now at 22,000 miles it is time for a third clutch. I've read this thread with interest because it seems that there's a further revision that I may have been on the borderline for last time. It also looks like the same part numbers were used on both my replacements.

I am getting the car back to the dealer next week and will be armed with this thread. I am also raising a case with JLR USA because at this point I believe I could get it bought back. I really don't want to though because despite the clutch problems I love this car and I had it built specifically to order. If there is a revision of the clutch that fixes the horrendous slippage then I'm inclined to let them have a final go at fixing this.

I am worried about dealer push back as my last two replacements were not the plainest of sailing to get sorted.

 

Compare the part numbers installed at your last clutch replacement with this post:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post1455659


If they are the same, you already have the updated parts, otherwise make certain they get these parts installed next time.

 

When mine was replaced in the fall the old part numbers no longer came up in jag parts list
According to my dealer. Taking this thread in with unhingd's documentation did the trick for me. New clutch is new drive altogether. Hoping you get it all sorted out.

 

I just checked my July receipt and the parts are the new ones.

This clutch lasted twice as long as the other two but it never felt sufficiently different to me even when last replaced to warrant the description of feeling like a 'whole new car'. It goes to the dealer on Tuesday so lets see what happens next.

 

This may or may not help you guys when you go in for clutch issues. Its an FYI to the dealers:

SSM73047.pdf

 

Wow, I wish this bulletin existed when I had my clutch replaced. Would have made the replacement a lot easier.

 

so... we're on clutch generation #3. I guess I need to run it at a drag strip a few times to get the most recent upgrade.