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Yup. Just got a 2017 yesterday. And I just learned allllll about this! Dang. I was trying to drive it like one of the many Mustangs I've had and yeah....that's not happening. Gotta granny shift. LEt the stupid slow release valve thing do it and a allow the pressure plate to clamp down on the clutch and then I can stamp it. But yeah.....that's pretty lame. Make's me look like a noob. I can drive this sports car hard. Only has 18K miles. At first I thought jeez. Person who owned this before me can't drive stick for shyt! haha. I'm looking for a clutch kit to get this thing swapped out and I found your tips, Unhingd, for drilling/pulling out that valve thing very helpful and will do that when I pull the tranny.
Yup. Just got a 2017 yesterday. And I just learned allllll about this! Dang. I was trying to drive it like one of the many Mustangs I've had and yeah....that's not happening. Gotta granny shift. LEt the stupid slow release valve thing do it and a allow the pressure plate to clamp down on the clutch and then I can stamp it. But yeah.....that's pretty lame. Make's me look like a noob. I can drive this sports car hard. Only has 18K miles. At first I thought jeez. Person who owned this before me can't drive stick for shyt! haha. I'm looking for a clutch kit to get this thing swapped out and I found your tips, Unhingd, for drilling/pulling out that valve thing very helpful and will do that when I pull the tranny.
As I recall, the delay valve removal didn't help him much but perhaps he'll chime in. I think the delay is very slight and mostly to reduce the shock a little. The biggest problem was the Gen 1 clutch and dual-mass flywheel. I'm not sure what's in your 2017. I can't remember when Gen1 was replaced with Gen2, but Gen2 was quickly replaced with Gen3. Some reports indicated the Gen2 transmitted too much shock to the driveline and ate differentials. I'm on either Gen3 or Gen4 now. I'm not certain, but the original Gen1 would both slip and drag, depending on its mood and where the parts that came loose found themselves.
I almost always drive in TracDSC mode. Full DSC either cuts power or uses rear brakes when slippage is detected and I'm not keen on that. I do drive with some mechanical sympathy for the clutch and gearbox, and am generally easy on them and not so easy on the engine. That is, I generally wait until the clutch is fully engaged before full throttle and I don't slam the shifter between gears. If I were looking to hoon like a kid in a Mustang I'd have bought a Mustang.
@BONESTOCK Congrats on your 2017 manual, I picked my BRG coupe up a year ago, and it has been a great ride so far (except for the slipping clutch).
It sounds like we both have the same situation, a Gen1 Dual Mass Flywheel, and maybe Gen2 friction disk and pressure plate that slips at moderate to high RPM/Torque shifting.
As @lizzardo pointed out, the delay valve is probably not the issue here.
I have also adapted to the same driving style as Steve/Lizzardo mentioned. Tempered and paced to the characteristics of the car's clutch and flywheel.
Clutch Kit:
That being said, you can read up on my quest to develop a single mass flywheel solution with clutch from a Porsche/Audi application that can handle 400 ft lbs. F-Type Clutch Replacement Options
Update:
This new single mass flywheel will use a flex plate from an F-Type automatic car... as it features the unique Jaguar starter ring gear and tone/timing teeth that the engine needs.
The flywheel will probably be machined from aluminum, with replaceable steel friction surfaces. Count on a healthy weight reduction from stock, and a lower rotational inertia.
The clutch kit (Friction Disk and Pressure Plate) will probably be from a Porsche 996-987 application and will be a simple clutch, NOT an auto adjusting clutch.
The T/O bearing will be the stock Jaguar part number, and the bolts for flywheel and pressure plate will also be stock Jaguar.
Initial price estimates point to less than $2500 for the whole kit.
Dynamic Stability Control Settings:
I find that the DSC ON mode is fine for around town driving (and for snow/rain/mud season here in Vermont).
I like the TracDSC mode, especially for track days, as it allows for some amount of "play" without risking total loss of grip.
The DSC OFF mode allows me to be silly and spin the car at Autocross events.. not my favorite feeling.
Herman
Last edited by HermanWiegman; Nov 27, 2022 at 11:47 AM.
The clutch on my 2017 disintegrated and I got the new gen 2 flywheel and gen 4 clutch installed. As many have noted, shifts much nicer now.
I got the original parts from the dealer and I'm posting pictures of those parts with all the numbers I could find on them. I did not find markings that looked like the T2R... part numbers, but I'm hoping these numbers might be helpful to others trying to figure out what gen parts when into their cars based on comparing VINs and build dates.
You are indeed correct. What I at first thought was a CDV issue was really a crappy clutch issue. Disabling the CDV made no discernible improvement. I now have the gen 4 clutch (also my 4th clutch after two gen 1 and one gen 2) with a functional CDV in place that still seems to be working well after 15k miles. When this one wears out, I’ll install the single mass lightened flywheel and stage 2 clutch that Spec built for me.
hi there, I bought this 2015 f type and am going to upgrade to the gen 4 clutch. Could you please tell
me exactly what needs to be bought / replaced… is everything in this kit going to do it?
hi there, I bought this 2015 f type and am going to upgrade to the gen 4 clutch. Could you please tell
me exactly what needs to be bought / replaced… is everything in this kit going to do it?
You'll want to replace the flywheel also. That was what came apart on mine. Also, once that's off, be prepared to replace the rear main seal as well. When my clutch was replaced under warranty that was leaking.
You'll want to replace the flywheel also. That was what came apart on mine. Also, once that's off, be prepared to replace the rear main seal as well. When my clutch was replaced under warranty that was leaking.
I'm sure I have my invoice somewhere but did not find it where I expected it (filed under Jaguar). Looking back in this thread at post #507 I see a part number.
@Lenny85
I echo the recommendations from above.
If you want to keep your F-Type “original” and worry-free, then the clutch job should include the following.
(you can look for the JLR part numbers on any Jaguar parts site)
1) new 4th gen clutch (about $1000 from JLR) [includes pressure plate and friction disc from SACHS]
2) new 2nd gen flywheel (about $1000 from JLR)
3) new throw out bearing / clutch slave cylinder (about $90)
4) consider a new rear engine main oil seal, as it is easily accessible with the flywheel off
5) new bolts for flywheel (x10) and new bolts for clutch/pressure plate (x6). (Less then $3 per bolt)
The clutch & flywheel swap is about 6~8 hours of labor, with some independent shops claiming 10~12 hours.
I can share the instruction set, if you opt for an independent shop.
If you don’t like the sluggish shifting of the high inertia Jaguar OEM flywheel, you can consider a single mass lightweight flywheel for more Sport Touring use.
Here is a video on Onca Engineering’s You Tube channel.
A few hundred miles short of 60K on my car and the clutch finally bit the dust. Ordering the 4th gen clutch assembly and second gen flywheel. I have verified all the part numbers below with Jaguar for my car so that others won't have to go through that process in the future, but I and the Jaguar parts guys could not find a part number for the pilot bearing. Anybody have the pilot bearing part number?
Clutch Assembly - T2R27466 and the 6 bolts needed for it T2R15201
Flywheel - T2R20968 and the 10 bolts needed for it T2R152000
Throw out or Release Bearing and slave cylinder - JDE32591
Rear Main Seal - C2Z27888
Pilot Bearing - ??????
I'm trying to get a sense of whether the shortcomings I am experiencing with the clutch is related to build date or is a constant on all F-Type manual transmissions.
Please indicate your build date by month in a response.
..The gear change and the clutch pedal on my Manual F- Type Jaguar is not as smooth and precise as my other car, an Alfa Romeo Giulietta but it's okay despite the gear lever being slightly higher up than my Alfa Romeo.
A few hundred miles short of 60K on my car and the clutch finally bit the dust. Ordering the 4th gen clutch assembly and second gen flywheel. I have verified all the part numbers below with Jaguar for my car so that others won't have to go through that process in the future, but I and the Jaguar parts guys could not find a part number for the pilot bearing. Anybody have the pilot bearing part number?
I did a quick check through my service records but didn't find the one for my clutch replacement. I probably pulled it for reference some time ago and didn't return it to its proper place. I'll keep looking.
BTW.. the pilot bearing is inserted into my Aasco Motorsports lightweight flywheel from the Engine side.
I can inspect an OEM Dual Mass Flywheel for which way it is inserted.
Here is a link to YT showing removal of my pilot bearing
Ah... Thank you, Herman. This is not a Jaguar part with no Jag part number and is instead, a pilot bearing used by BMW, Volvo, Ford, etc. that can be ordered on line by any one of a number of bearing distributors using the INA part number F-214930. I ordered it from 123Bearings - $22 (but the shipping was more than the bearing).