+1. The replacement parts take the driving experience to a whole new level of enjoyment.

 

It's my only car, so it's mostly commuting. Nevertheless, even when I'm driving hard, I'm not abusive on equipment. If it fails, it won't be because I abused it or used it incorrectly. The chips will fall where they may. The longer warranty that came from 2016 was a definite factor in the purchase.

Interestingly, my service advisor used to be a store manager at a motorcycle shop that was giving me support when I raced, and he also raced for some of the time I was active. I didn't make the connection right way because it's been some years, and it was out of context, but he recognized me when we first met.

 

Steve,

I wasn't suggesting abuse. I was responding to one of your previous posts where you suggested you were "babying" it. When I say drive it like a sports car, I mean rapid shifts, near full throttle acceleration, etc. I wouldn't suggest abusive behavior, like purposely slipping the clutch or otherwise sloppy clutch technique.

 

The pitfalls of text-only communication: Nuances and intent are sometimes lost without the audio and visual and cues we're hard-wired to pick up.

I never thought that you meant I should abuse it. Yes, I did realize I'd been babying the clutch with slow, deliberate shifts, and 'fessed up to that. I haven't been babying the engine though, or the chassis

I'm still working on other aspects of technique, e.g. heel/toe, zero to max. braking in minimum time, but commuting isn't the best place for that in a car with an elevated performance envelope. Heel/toe is easier in this car than anything else I've had in the last two decades, but those cars had such poor pedal setup that I mostly gave up on even trying.

 

The $24000 question: did jaguar dealer ever question your engine mods when replacing your clutch under warranty? So much talk about detecting computer tampering, they probably never checked or didn't care

 

A dealer is generally on your side for one simple reason. They make money if JLR pays for a warranty repair. An ECU tune will only be looked for in the case of an engine problem, and only then because JLR will insist on it before agreeing to pay for repair or replacement.

In short, they don't care as long as they get paid.

 

In my case, I documented the clutch problem with the dealer within a couple weeks of delivery and every time I went in for subsequent service. I also had documentation showing that no tuning had occurred prior to the first two registered complaints and a blown clutch had already been replaced once. I did not need any of that documentation. The selling factor was the service tech smoking the bejeesus out of the clutch on his first launch attempt. I am so pleased with how the clutch now feels.

 

Got back my car. It was TRANSFORMED. Jumpin' Jesus on a Pogo Stick! It actually shifts like it should!

Initial drive - clutch pedal is a lot heavier, and catch point is much deeper. I actually (lol, head lowered in shame, lol) stalled pulling out first time. I read what Unhingd wrote, but it did not prepare me for this. This now has a feel of a proper high powered car. I had to move seat closer to the steering wheel, the way I'd position myself for the track. No more lounging-driving with this gearbox.

Shifting - slushy vague feeling is GONE! You can get crisp, precise shift at any RPM and at any throttle application.

I think this issue is 100% solved. If you are still with old parts - get on your dealer to get this fixed ASAP.

Also had Michelin Super Sport tires installed at the same time... no more P0!!!

I am off. Can't wait to

 

lol. Same thing happened to me pulling out of the dealership after the new and improved clutch was installed.

 

Congrats SinF,

I'm glad you got your car back and it's fixed to your expectation. Enjoy the car even more with the new clutch and tires.

 

So my car has started to make a sound when I put it in gear from neutral. A low pitched "thunk" that you can also feel through the seats. Should I be worried you think?

Orkney

 

I'm familiar with that sound, for sure...

 

Yes, it means the clutch is not fully disengaging. Based on my experience your clutch plate mechanism is about ready to blow apart at any time now, leaving the engine permanently hooked up to the transmission. Just make certain they use the updated part numbers when they replace your clutch and flywheel.

If you want to confirm this, take your foot off the brake and throttle before shifting out of neutral into first. The engine will slow and the car will start creeping forward.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking too. It's looking more and more like all the manuals built w/ the original clutch and flywheel will fail relatively early. It also sounds like JLR has instructed dealers to replace them based upon a customer's complaint w/o argument.

If it were me, I wouldn't wait another day to book an appointment if I had one of those cars.

 

+1!

 

Matches my experience.

+1 Also, while you are waiting, double-clutch and rev match your shifts.

 

Thanks for the info. I am going to get something scheduled with Plano Jag.

Orkney

 

Can we correlate whether the clutch failure is in just S models or all MTs. It is possible JLR used the Volvo parts in S models due to the higher torque values just like they used slightly larger brake rotors. It seems from the small sampling that it is only S models.

 

I don't think it's anything but coincidence. There is only a 7 ft lb. torque difference between the V6 and V6S engine, and the only difference is ECU tune. That insignificant difference wouldn't merit a different clutch and flywheel.

However, it is likely that more "sporty" drivers are seeing the failures sooner than more conservative ones.

 

Nope.