So today I was at a stop light and thought, there not one around so I'd turn off traction control and do a burn out take off. Well, just seconds into it and the engine hit my bonnet and pushed it up some, like a few inches....YIKES! I'm wondering if I broke a motor mount, or is the engine supposed to have that much travel? I opened the bonnet and noticed my mina gallery intakes were elevated some, so I loosed up the clamps and pushed them down about a half inch. However, I'm not sure if thats the fix.

Has anyone on here had this issue? A possible broken motor mount? Gonna put it in the air later this week to swap my wheels so I can crawl under and look then.

 

Your suspicion has to be correct - motor mount.

 

Maybe you triggered the pedestrian protection system?
The twin airbags under the hood up the windscreen end which are meant to go off and push the rear of the hood up a few inches in the event of a front on pedestrian collision.
This system is known to be problematic with many instances on XFs and a few on F-Types of false deployment when hitting a pothole etc.
Easy enough to check and see if those airbags have gone off.

 

Good idea, but almost certainly not the cause because the US and the Canadian cars do not have the pedestrian protection system. We do not value the lives of pedestrians.
My vote is for a broken motor mount...

 

Thanks for that, I had forgotten that North American cars are not saddled with that idiotic system!

 

A photo speaks a thousand words....

 

Why would an engine mount break on a 5 year old car?

 

I'm going with motor mounts!

 

Having seen a man hit and carried by a Volvo when the driver did not stop at a crossing, I sure am glad that more and more cars are now equipped with PPS!

 

Those Volvos are very dangerous!!

 

I'm sure they're hydraulic mounts. It's not unheard of for them to leak. I think a visual inspection would reveal that, but honestly, I can't think of anything else it could be.

In the Old Days, we'd check mounts by opening the hood, applying the brake, and then giving it some gas while in gear and looking for excessive engine movement. For the Saab 99s it was usually the front mount (under the radiator). The F-Type doesn't have one of those ;^)

 

Or easier still, put the engine on first gear, and rock the car bak and forth to see any flex....Doh, sorry forgot you were nearly all autos back then! ( The only cars that had autos from memory in the UK then were posh cars like Bentley, Rolls!).

 

Yeah, no air bags in the US in the bonnet. I'll put it up in the air in a day or so and crawl underneath. I had my wheels re powder coated black from brushed bronze. and will be putting them on. Tired of cleaning brake dust all the time.

Does anyone know of any performance upgrades on motor mounts? I think the increase of Torque did this and want stronger parts. Maybe even an added torque brace availability?

 

Looks like the Engine Mounts ( AWD - T2R23625 - L & R - RWD - C2D2745 - L & R) ) are challenging to get to/replace. I have not seen any upgraded versions anywhere, but perhaps someone else has?

I have posted a link to the R and R Process on my Cloud Drive below...and a picture of what they look like below. Not very impressive looking.

Will add this to my DIY Thread as well. (Note this is for V8 AWD). RWD will be similar.

DC
LINK to Procedure

 

Thanks for the info. Looks like a pain in the *** to do this. Guess I'll be swapping out the high pressure fuel pumps when I do this too. Its only a matter of time before they **** the bed as well at 65K miles.

 

The 99s and 900s were the bulk of my work, and most were manual transmissions. Transmission rebuilds were a big source of work. The pinion bearings would need replacing by about 125K miles, earlier if maintenance had been "deferred." With the weight of the engine/transaxle assembly, front motor mount problems were easiest to diagnose with handbrake and engine power. It was really only the 99s though. When they went from gears to chains on the primary drive, they downsized the front mount shaft from 10mm to 8mm, and those would break.

 

The other thread...easier method?? HERE

DC

 

Just as suspected. Drivers side mount was broken. Also replaced the trans mount as that was cracked in half. Passenger side mount intact.

 

Wow...That sucks. Was the little rope/string broken off as well? or did you take it off? They do not look very robust...So I guess around 60-65 K I will start paying attention to these, or change preemptively …

Did you change them yourself? If so, how bad was it?

Thanks for posting the pics.

DC

 

That strap looks like something only intended to stay on up through installation.