The car was perfect for 12,000 miles though.
The smoke from the exhaust eventually went away, it seemed like water vapor in the exhaust. I definitely agree that the oil level thing probably barely works.

I only tried selling car because I found a newer GT3 for a steal. Haha. Ended up buying it anyway even without selling it.

 

Curious as to what type of warranty the replacement engine will have from JLR?

 

This doesn't improve the accuracy of this gadget, but may offer more convenient times to observe it: I believe I read that there is a way to get a real-time reading from the "dipstick" too.

 

I am not saying there was or was not internal engine damage - I know nothing of the history.... However, once there is some internal damage done, it can burn oil, and always will.... and going 10,000 miles when the engine is consuming oil can be a death sentence - for a lot of otherwise decent running cars. With 5,000 mile intervals, you'd burn half as much between top-ups. Combined with this damn digital dipstick and inability to have a good look at your oil condition, I'm going to be on the safe side and change much more frequently than prescribed.

These very long change intervals which are recommended by the manufacturers for any number of reasons do not account for engines that burn oil due to being driven very hard.

 

That graphic stick represents a full quart. That differential represents just 4 oz. I wouldn't find that to be an unexpected variance in readings for a two gallon system.

 

Those electronic oil level sensors use some clever ultrasound trick to read the surface of the oil.

It bet it is affected by metal shavings in the oil.

Possibly a massive design oversight? A number of cars use these.. bmw also comes to mind.

 

Ultrasonic oil sensors are not affected by metal shavings in the oil. They only look for the surface, not the contents. Something to keep in mind is your oil level is going to be different (slightly) when the oil is warm, or when the oil is cool. Also will differ before and after running the engine after a several hour soak.

 

So in relation to the bottom line, when would you add oil--when the reading is slightly above the bottom line, even with the bottom line, or slightly below the bottom line?

This morning before I left for work, I checked the oil. It read half way on the bar, then immediately lowered another 1/4 of an inch without doing anything.

 

Oil burning is not linear. When I was dealing with a Subaru that had bad rings, for the first 1-2K miles you have no burning, then it ramps up. So if you change oil frequently, you might not even know you have marginal oil burning. I didn't for the first two oil changes, as I have done them early on the engine that was being broken-in. Coincidentally, Subaru also lowered oil change interval by 1K and re-programmed level warning sensor - too many people were hitting warnings and asking for new engines.

These change intervals are excessively long for even gentle driving, if you push your car you need to half them.

My F-type doesn't burn oil when pushed very hard, but I change oil every other track day. So I always have fresh oil in it when the car is pushed.

No engine issues so far, but with all these recent posts I am about to do oil analysis.

 

Sorry but in my opinion this is a legit question... did you check the oil, did you notice it going down .. was it sudden... notice a leak or electronic dipstick not working which is definitely a concern.

In this case it seems it was not working, so now I want to see about the system on my car.
Lawrence

 

Completely off topic but lets see that GT3! Congrats!

 

I know the ultrasonic sensor reads the surface, but those oily metal bits tend to cling to things. If there are bits of metal clinging to the upper part of the probe, the part above the oil level, I'm wondering if they can affect the reading. I'd like to think this scenario was thoroughly accounted for. Obviously, it was not reading the level correctly on that car - I'm looking for the science, whatever it may be.

 

The science is that the sensor isn't precise enough to notice those tiny little specs of metal. The sensor is reflecting waves off the surface of the oil over a broad area. A tiny little flake of metal isn't going to be picked up.

 

So is there still a mystery?
- Was sensor not working, and the software isn't smart enough to detect an implausible situation over time?
- Or was actual oil level not checked (including by the dealer) between the time it was ok and missing 6 quarts?

This car actually does not have the on/off oil pressure 'idiot' switch used by every car since the beginning of time? It's a great notification of sudden loss of oil pressure indicating that it's sucking air.

I guess in the end, so long as they are replacing the engine at JLR's cost, we don't need to know....

 

Seems the engine was burning crazy oil!

Got a small update; 1 week ago they told me that car was supposed to be done by Tomorrow.

Well guess what.. they are having an incredibly tough time finding some crossbolt for the frame (actually chassis bolt of some kind) and it won't be done til the part comes in.. here's the kicker. They don't know when it's coming in but estimated it to be 2-3 weeks out + 3-5 days for installing it. In 3 days, it will have spent 60 days straight getting fixed.... SIXTY DAYS, in addition to the already 20+ days spread out over a few visits, and not including the additional wait I was told today.

I can't even believe this, not to mention Jaguar hasn't even contacted my lemon law attorney and they are now 6 days past 30 day DUE notice for settlement.

Like jeez, how careless can they be? First they are basically now holding my car hostage for what is going to be 100 days.. ONE HUNDRED. On top, they are not speaking to my lawyer even after she called customer relations after the 30 day window was up. No call back....

 

Unfortunately it's beginning to look like you may just be in a fight to "Lemon" the car. Good luck with everything and I hope it turns out well for you.

 

I am having the crazy oil consumption problem too. The car is at the dealer right now, for about a week. Tomorrow they are going to check the oil for metal shavings. Seems every ~10K the oil is drastically low. They are also stating that my powertrain warranty is void because I have a tune on my car, so any sort of issues found or repairs needed will come out of my pocket.

On top of the oil they said my struct mounts need replacing and since the car is running in VelocityAP springs that this repair is also not under warranty due to aftermarket parts.

sighhhh... will talk with the dealer tomorrow to see what I can do, and to find out exactly how low my oil had dropped over the past 10K miles.

 

@zmoothg

While it is uphill battle, you are not yet SOL. I suggest you pay an independent shop to determine the root cause of oil consumption. If it can be clearly linked to a flaw in production (e.g. bad oil scraper ring, flaw in cylinder surface) you can get reimbursed for engine replacement.

That is, JLR will always say "no warranty" for tuned engines and will not investigate the cause of engine failure any further. However, there are a lot of cases when the tune in not at fault. There are also a lot of cases where it is unclear, and JLR will successfully blame tune. It is rare, but does happen, when tune gradually destroy the engine. Most of the time bad tunes grenade the engine on the first or second pull at the dyno.

 

Just Sin said, it's not over until they PROVE it's the tune that caused that.

If I'm not mistaken it's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act that states basically, that they have to prove it.

As well as my car.. I still have not seen it. Nor gotten a call. Waiting on some bolts still! In the meantime, I bought a new 2017 NSX for a steal of a deal while waiting for this situation to sort itself out.

 

Unfortunately, JLR doesn't have to prove anything other than presence of tune and claim it caused the fault. Magnuson-Moss doesn't cover out of spec parts, and any tune that isn't JLR would be out of spec.