All,
Has anyone experienced a failed exhaust vacuumed pump? There are zero codes, but the exhaust seems to be making a rattle/more pronounced vibration sound. At mid-range the pops and bangs are very weak compared to normal. The exhaust is from velocity but i would imagine the vacuum pump failure on a stock setup would show the same symptoms.

I will start by tracing the lines running from the exhaust valves but if there is no apparent damage it seems like the pump or possibly a new exhaust will follow.
Thanks
Philip

 

I have a faulty vacuum valve and that causes the exhaust valves to be open all the time

 

Yes, failure of the pump should lead to more noise, not less. My valves make a squeaky/grindy noise, but they still work. My vacuum pump sounds like a buzzing heat shield when it runs. Note that I think the vacuum pump was only used for the first two model years. If you have it, removing fuse F43 (under the floor of the passenger footwell) disables the pump, so that the valves are open 100% of the time, which might help you diagnose the noise.

Here’s how active exhaust (with vacuum pump) works…
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0

 

DJS,
Thank you for the information. I am not sure about only the first few year models having the pump. My 2017 Type R definitely has one. With that being said I have found that there are split model years meaning although my model is a 2017, the car was assembled in 2016. This was discovered during a supercharger snout change out due to a local shop trying to install a velocity top pully. We had to take measurements because there are two part numbers.

My plan is to order the vacuum hose listed on technical bulletin jtb00365. The TB removes the vacuum pump completely and routs the hose to the vacuum line behind the engine using a T fitting.

The question is if the pumps are being removed due to noise/etc then what was the original purpose of the pump?

philip

 

Would there be any detrimental side effects in removing fuse F43 for longer periods?

I'm sure I have that exact problem, but I was told by the Jaguar service center that I needed new exhaust at the back. Over 3K quote.
My rattle goes off when I click on the switch for the active exhaust.

 

Paul,

In my personal experience with dealership tecs I would not put a lot of faith into the advice from one mechanic. I worked for Acura through my college years and found that the car world is one of the shadiest/cutthroat business models that exist.

I don’t believe that pulling the fuse would cause any long-term issues as there are members here that have done it. I can still faintly hear the vibration with active exhaust mode. The only time that the sound is not there is in sport with active and at that point you can’t hear anything other than the scream of the engine/roar of the exhaust.

The vacuum hose for the tech bulletin was only around $40 dollars with shipping. Hopefully the TB will solve the problem and if it allows the removal of a $400 dollar exhaust pump known to fail and serves little purpose that’s a bonus. I also ordered the vacuum line that is routed from the two exhaust valves.

When the parts come in, I will be removing all the heat shields and conducting a thorough inspection to see what is going on and will post what I find out

Philip

 

Much appreciated, thanks for the insight

 

I found a PDF that addresses this vacuum pump problem and detailes what to remove and how to route the new vacuum line

 

Paul,

Thanks for the file, will definitely use it to conduct the work. Take care

Philip

 

I can't see that sport would be any different from D apart from the revs being potentially higher since that mode doesn't, as far as I'm aware, make any difference to the exhaust. Dynamic mode does, of course, since that opens the valves all the time (subject to MY weird behaviours).

 

Scm,

The 200 cell cats and velocity exhaust make the care significantly louder. I’m not complaining just saying you can’t hear the vibration, radio, or anything else for that matter when applying a decent amount of throttle with active exhaust. As you know in sport the pops are more prevalent and the engine noise is increased just adding to drowning out the vibration issue. I should get all the parts this week. The line called out in the Tech bulletin had to be sourced from England (at least by Harper jag).

I have also been getting an intermediate P2404 code so decided to order a new gas cap, and all the vacuum lines associated with the ridiculous emission vapor canister. I have found in some discussion that the Purge Control Valve can cause the cause and the engine/car to run rough.

Once I replace all the lines and look over everything hopefully the code as well as the vibration disappears. More to follow

 

The only issue with leaving F43 removed for an extended period is that the valves may seize open - doesn’t matter much if you don’t plan to put F43 back in.

I use a small relay with key fob to switch F43 in or out (I don’t have ‘switchable’ active exhaust.) Works great.
http://www.cccharger.co.uk