I bought my Oct 2014 built F-Type in Sept 2016 so now 8 years and 4 months old and it has cost me a whopping $40 in repairs - the infamous coolant expansion tank tube cracked and needed to be replaced. The SC coupler/snout was rattly from the get go and replaced under warranty so cost me nothing. Not much spent on servicing and maintenance either as I do it all myself, other than the 2 year and 3 year services (to preserve the warranty) where I supplied all the fluids, filters etc anyway, roughly $600 total. I change the oil and filter once or twice a year, I have renewed the engine air filters and wiper blades once each, total expense roughly another $1,000.
Another $2,000 on new tyres some 5 years ago, so all up ignoring a few thousand spent on modifications (too many to list) I have spent maybe $4,000 total on repairs, servicing and maintenance and that includes the fairly expensive Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres.
It has been the most reliable and cheapest to run and maintain car I have ever owned while at the same time being the most "exotic" car I have ever owned!

 

As much as i loved my 2015R (bought used with 4k miles on it) when it hit 40k miles at 6 years old, i sold it and bought a new 2023R. The warranty makes all the difference for me.

 

Hopefully the videos Oz posted help. Not sure what equipment the JLR dealer used for the cleaning, but it was the BG platinum fuel service (chemicals). I only drove the car home from the dealer (about 20 miles) so no real good idea if it made an enormous difference... I use on ramps for that check :-)

 

Yep, plenty of anecdotal evidence that many JLR dealerships pour a tin/bottle of BG 44K in the fuel tank as part of a routine service, just hadn't heard of one doing the full BG intake cleaning procedure before.

 

The platinum clean is what the videos show

 

Yep.
But there are two different products both with the name "platinum" in them, the "air intake valve and combustion chamber cleaner" wot gets sprayed into the air intake and the BG 44K wot goes in the fuel, see around the 1.58 mark of the second video (Rainman Ray) where he shows the two cans/tins side by side.
So don't confuse the two as they are most definitely not interchangeable!

 

Audi was a early user of direct injection and a lot needed a carbon service done regularly. I believe the R8 still does. My car was very resonable for first 9 years. Since I have very low mileage none of "known' problems popped up during warranty. Last year my car finally needed front pads and marginally rotors, I decided to up grade to porterfields all around and did a mild up grade to rotors all around, my choice. $2400! Right after a fuel injector let go resulting in replacing one bank and all new plugs, another$2400, it seems after awhile these injectors are hard to remove. End of year a small leak showed up, so I got the alum pipes. My mechanic says it is a leak from a valve behind water pump. This part has been hard to find. Had upgraded water pump done in late "18 so that's ok. I'm replacing the pipes also since labor is already done finding leak. This will be a relatively lower price , $1000 plus my parts. If these costs are amortised over 9 1/2 years not crazy, plus normal service and a set of Michelin PS4s about 10,000 miles ago. Now at 26k miles. I should be good to for another couple years, probably a battery maybe. Don't see getting rid of car as it now does about 3500 miles a year. All these priced cars cost unless you have your own skills. The front pads and rotors on our '17 Ghibli with performance brakes was $1400!

 

Sorry to hear about the issues you've encountered. I had concerns before I purchased in 2021, but the forums were very helpful in identifying things to be wary of. Agree with a lot of the comments above... I expected some higher running costs with this caliber of car... in my case fortunately haven't had many issues *touch wood*

I ultimately bought my car from CarMax as a work around to my concerns about potential expensive repairs - paid $3k for a 5 year 100k mile extended warranty from them, so I have warranty coverage until 2026... well worth it in my book! If the diff ever fails it should pay for itself

 

Only thing I hear has a fair chance at failing prematurely is the rear diff. My Jag shop local to me confirms as much. Other than that, I'd say it's been relatively faithful. The AJ V8 is rock solid and time tested, should be as reliable as anything else out on the road.

I do have a problem with bolts though for some odd reason, the shop addressed a knocking noise in the frame by re-torquing the front and rear subframe bolts, and also solved a rattle by re-tightening the front chassis x-brace bolts. It's like whoever put my particular car together didn't go to the gym or something. Oddly, we also noticed the left bolt and the right bolt on the x-brace are different lengths, but they look like they came from the factory. No idea what that's about.

 

I purchased my ‘17 with a bit of warranty left, which served as a “lemon vetting period”. This ensured that any outstanding or soon-to-be issues wouldn’t be paid out of pocket. Unfortunately, this doesn’t help you but it may help prospective buyers. The delta in used prices between 1-2yrs vintage is small when you net out the cost of repairs out of warranty. I will say though that I’ve had zero issues with the car outside of O2 sensors…you’ve gotta pay to play when it comes to that exhaust, but even then they’re cheap.

 

Your O2 sensors are covered for either 10 years/100K miles or 15 years/150K miles in the US, depending on engine:

 

Thank you! Car came out of warranty last March and luckily haven’t had O2 sensor issues since, but I was counting the days. I can now take the present value of my expected future O2 sensor expenses and reallocate them to VAP rotors!

 

You didn't buy this car did you? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...rashed-222757/

 

I see it from both sides. It's not realistic to buy a $100K (when new) car and expect repairs to cost the same as a Toyota Prius. It's just how it is with expensive cars. Given that it's used, reliability, like all used cars, is an unknown. The best you can do is have an independent shop look it over before purchase. After that, you're still at the whim of its previous owner and whatever maintenance was done - or not. I wasn't averse to spending more money (~10%) on the used 2015 F-Type I bought because I wanted to establish a known baseline. Maybe I'm being optimistic, but proactively replacing known problem parts hopefully buys some reliability. Even simple things like replacing all fluids is a great way to start, knowing that - for certain - those have been serviced and accounted for. If any levels decrease in the future, it's not a puzzle about what's going on. If nothing had been serviced, you don't know what you have.

FWIW, there's a YT series about a guy who bought a wrecked Porsche GT3. He paid $150K for a car with the front corner basically ripped off, and will likely spend $60-70K just in parts. Worse, Porsche won't sell certain parts to owners - only dealers are allowed to perform certain work, so that's probably another $30K. And even getting it painted will be expensive because, well, Porsche GT3. Finding high end sports cars in wrecking yards is nearly impossible, so buying used parts isn't realistic. So, yeah, it's the nature of the beast, buying something somewhat rare that was expensive to start with. It's like swimming to the deep end of the pool just to see what it's like, don't be surprised when you can't touch the bottom.

 

Also I'd take issue with the use of the word "extremely" in the subject - we're not talking Aston Martin, McLaren, Rolls Royce, etc. here.

 

Everyone's finances and budget are different from each other.

The car could be expensive to.maintain depending on many factors, car history and how it is/was driven. That being said, it's all relative.

 

I wasn't disputing "expensive", it was the "extremely" bit I think is overstating the case.