I am leaning toward electronics...does yours have the Active Dynamics package? On most modern cars the steering adjusts based on speed and setting...and on these there is a distinct difference. On my wife's Lexus the electronics went out and her powersteering pump and all functioned fine, but it was so "heavy" she could not turn it in a parking lot yet there was no physical indication of a malfunction. She also lost the "auto return to center" functionality...apparently was all controlled by the electronics and that was a 10 yr old car.

 

I do not believe mine has that package, at least I haven't been able to find any options for it. I have Dynamic/Sport modes but that's about it. Your wife's problem sounds similar to mine. I don't have THAT much trouble turning the wheel at slower speeds, but it is still heavy, tight, and harder than it should be... and it does not return to center properly. At faster speeds, the wheel is extremely rigid and on a hair trigger where moving the slightest amount in either direction will send the car right or left VERY quickly.

They SAID they checked electronics and didn't see any codes or whatever, but I'm not really taking that at face value at this point.

I called the Service Manager today and explained everything that's been going on. He said he'd do some research and call me tomorrow, so hopefully I can get somewhere with him.

 

Good luck researching your problem on the forum.

Hopefully a good mechanic will go with you and YOU describe and show him what it is that is bothering you.
Lawrence

 

Did that, will have to do again because I don't think it penetrated. Figured it couldn't hurt to see if anyone else had ever experienced the same problem. Lots of insightful stuff here.

 

I know our Jags are not Lexi, but her's did the same. No codes, no noise, no physical symptoms just didn't function. Once they replaced the parts (where the electronics controlled a valve system) the problem went away.

I think I would push for them to start replacing parts under warranty. When you write the complaint on the intake sheet for service, document the seriousness and impact to drivability and how this change in the handling characteristics has created a safety issue with controlling the vehicle at highway speeds. Be specific and document it, and then the liability transfers to them if something happens. Make sure the Service Manager reads the comments and accepts the liability for reduced handling including the "increased tendency to dart uncontrollably to the left or right with minimal wheel input", and "absence of return to center assistance when making a left or right maneuver at speed."

See what they say and what parts they want to start replacing...

Just my $0.02

 

some information from topix


The steering gear provides variable ratio, rack and pinion steering
with speed sensitive hydraulic power assistance. The adjustment of
power assistance with speed is controlled by software incorporated
into the CJB (central junction box) . The software responds to road
speed signals and controls the power assistance via a Servotronic
valve located on the steering gear valve housing.


This system is a "simple" control system without any feedback to the electronics.
If your servotronic valve gets stuck nothing is send to the cars electronics
therefore no codes can be read by the diagnostic system.
Nevertheless you will feel the result on your steering wheel.
Hth.
Regards
Ulrich

 

Have you disconnected your battery since this issue appeared? If not, give that a try for about 10-15 seconds.

 

Yeah I have disconnected the battery, and they also did it when I took it in for service the first time. No bueno.

I am waiting for a call from the service manager, and I will start pushing to replace parts.

Also I've determined that the "chunky deceleration" I'm experiencing only seems to happen once the car hits around 1000-1200 RPM with my foot off - before then it will coast normally, but at that point it will decelerate faster noticeably giving that drag feeling. I'm thinking it feels even worse because of the horrific state of the steering.

 

That confirms what I was speculating on...so...all the symptoms could make sense if there IS an issue with the steering and the stability system is sensing something it cannot compensate for and is applying braking in an attempt to compensate for invalid steering signals causing the deceleration and the "clunking" of systems engaging including the electronic differential in the rear end.

I still say root is a steering issue in the assist. There is a large (40 AMP I think) fuse link in the fuse panel above and to the rear of the drivers front tire under the hood. I don't remember which one it is, but it controls all the stability and electronic controls to the ABS, SRS, and electronic differential. If you remove that, I wonder if those other symptoms will disappear...just a thought.

 

Thank you UC3 / f-driver / all...

I'm going to run with this idea as it seems like a good place to start looking. I'll discuss it with the service manager to see if he agrees that it could be the cause of the issues and hopefully we can start getting parts replaced.

Keep you posted.

 

Good luck. These are complex cars and you don't often make the best money at dealerships so often the mechanics they have there are pretty limited. If this continues you might try to push the problem to Jaguar corporate if you haven't already (I didn't read the entire thread).

 

So just an update, I left my car with them for 5 days (this is the 4th time I've taken it in) and after trying random crap like switching out the front tires, they have informed me that they do not think that there is anything wrong.

I'm extremely frustrated and am not sure where to take this now other than to contact Jag Corporate and vent all of my concerns to them. I drove a different F-type that they had there (same model) and it felt night and day to me in the quality of handling. Regardless, the service manager and the foreman at the dealership that I drove with (and had them drive) seem to be convinced there is not a problem and everything is normal.

 

I guess the only thing that I would consider doing (beyond your note above) is to ask a trusted friend or two, that are 'car people' to take the car out and drive it around, without telling them what my own impressions are and then seek feedback. Not to question my own judgement necessarily, but to simply obtain second opinions that are not dealer orientated and try to pin down description of issue as they see it.... to provide some fresh perspective etc.

Jaguar should have senior service reps that travel between dealers and I would think your dealer should be willing to have the rep take the car out for an unbiased opinion as well.

Higher performance cars with low profile tires can really move around a bit at the steering wheel on uneven surface so other, less dealer bias opinions may help with Jaguar corporate.
Lawrence

 

Have you asked to test drive another F type or have them give you one for the day just to compare?

 

Reread the OP's last post - he did that.

 

I could see this coming from a mile away!

Did you mention to the service manager and the foreman that even BEFORE they concluded that nothing was wrong, you already told the world that it was a Horror story??? You predicted they would fail to satisfy you and imagine that - you were right!

If they are smart, they would offer to buy the car back and hope that you move to another brand because their problems have just begun.

 

Why do dealers not want to fix cars? If they can't do it for what the manufacturer pays that is their problem. In certain cases they can't , especially recalls but they have to live with it.

 

im going to try another dealership, but first I am going to get video evidence of the steering problem. I will post it here as well for anyone who may be interested.

 

Resetting the battery is not a permanent fix. It only worked for a few days and after I did it, the problem happened again and the battery reset no longer worked. Also never keep jumper cables in your trunk as you won't be able to access it should your battery completely die, unless you've removed the cover. Furthermore, there is a last resort way to jump the battery which is from the front terminals.

 

Don't you just hate that? I KNEW they were going to say that. When any shop or mechanic gets stumped, they try to tell you that what you're experiencing is NORMAL.

I had two shops tell me, after spending thousands chasing a loud clattering suspension issue, that there was no issue and everything was normal. Turns out it was a brake clip that had been bent by the first shop. If a shop doesn't want to fix the issue, just straight up tell me. Don't tell me that it's not an issue!