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Periodically, I share my Dropbox folder, which has a collection of documents relating to the F-type. Most of them (but not all) have come from this forum. Any time I see something that might be nice to have or useful, I grab it and stuff it in this folder. Examples: OzXFR's service manual, brake sizes, speaker sizes, service indicator reset procedure, etc. The 'Wiring Quick Reference.PDF' is an eye opener...
Feel free to grab whatever you like. There's a lot of interesting reading here. The 'Varta_H8_battery_productsheet_595901085D852.pdf' is, as best I can tell, the OEM battery for our cars. Maybe.
Periodically, I share my Dropbox folder, which has a collection of documents relating to the F-type. Most of them (but not all) have come from this forum. Any time I see something that might be nice to have or useful, I grab it and stuff it in this folder. Examples: OzXFR's service manual, brake sizes, speaker sizes, service indicator reset procedure, etc. The 'Wiring Quick Reference.PDF' is an eye opener...
Feel free to grab whatever you like. There's a lot of interesting reading here. The 'Varta_H8_battery_productsheet_595901085D852.pdf' is, as best I can tell, the OEM battery for our cars. Maybe.
Hi TechnaBob, I'm new to the forum, and would love to get my hands on some of the information you had in your Dropbox. When selecting the subject, I get a 404 error. any way to make them available again? Many thanks!
SS4PK, (and perhaps others on the FT Forum) I noticed that you have a '16 RR Evoque. What can you share about your experience? Have not owned a LR or RR, though lots of Jaguars, with which we've been throroughly pleased. Limited research warns about their dependability, yet the only Evoque owners forum that I have found thus far has only "niggly odds / ends" complaints. My go-to Jaguar mechanic mentions leaky windshields, panoramic tops, early brake failures, faulty turbo / exhaust connectors, and other items currently escaping my memory. Thanks in advance for your insights, recommendations.
Doc
Replacing Start Button/Switch & Park Button on Shift Lever
Forum members have been great finding information about replacing the Start button and the Park button on the automatic shift lever. Both have a tendency to lose their finish and look worn, but are easily replaced. This post is just to summarize the information and provide some pictures of the installation.
You can use the part numbers to find the parts on the internet, e-Bay, or your dealer. Costs can vary a bit and there may be shipping and/or tax, depending on your source.
Start Button/Switch - Part Number: T2R18771 Approx Cost: $26.50
The easiest way to remove the old button is to drill a small pilot hole in the middle, insert a drywall screw a couple of turns, and just pull it out. There's a connector on the back that pulls off. The new switch just slides in.
Some have used less destructive methods to remove the old switch include using a pry tool (like used to repair phones/mp3 players, etc) around the edge, or even dental floss wrapped around the outer lip.
Park Button - Part Number: LR086213 Approx Cost: $7.00
Originally, the word was that there was no replacement part for the "P" button on the shift lever - you had to replace the entire assembly which was expensive and fairly labor intensive.
It turns out, Land Rover uses the same assembly and DOES have a separate part for the "P" which is rather like a keyboard key cap. Removing it is as simple as inserting the blade of a small screw driver at the base and giving it a little twist to pop it off. The new button just snaps in.
If you want a little extra protection for your new buttons, spray on a coat of clear Rust-oleum before you install. There is a version that specifically works on plastic - satin or semi-gloss finish.
Note the small screwdriver blade inserted at the bottom edge. Shift lever with "P" button removed. Finished job.
Hope this helps.
Forum members have been great finding information about replacing the Start button and the Park button on the automatic shift lever. Both have a tendency to lose their finish and look worn, but are easily replaced. This post is just to summarize the information and provide some pictures of the installation.
You can use the part numbers to find the parts on the internet, e-Bay, or your dealer. Costs can vary a bit and there may be shipping and/or tax, depending on your source.
Start Button/Switch - Part Number: T2R18771 Approx Cost: $26.50
The easiest way to remove the old button is to drill a small pilot hole in the middle, insert a drywall screw a couple of turns, and just pull it out. There's a connector on the back that pulls off. The new switch just slides in.
Some have used less destructive methods to remove the old switch include using a pry tool (like used to repair phones/mp3 players, etc) around the edge, or even dental floss wrapped around the outer lip.
Park Button - Part Number: LR086213 Approx Cost: $7.00
Originally, the word was that there was no replacement part for the "P" button on the shift lever - you had to replace the entire assembly which was expensive and fairly labor intensive.
It turns out, Land Rover uses the same assembly and DOES have a separate part for the "P" which is rather like a keyboard key cap. Removing it is as simple as inserting the blade of a small screw driver at the base and giving it a little twist to pop it off. The new button just snaps in.
If you want a little extra protection for your new buttons, spray on a coat of clear Rust-oleum before you install. There is a version that specifically works on plastic - satin or semi-gloss finish.
Note the small screwdriver blade inserted at the bottom edge. Shift lever with "P" button removed. Finished job.
Hope this helps.
Turns out that Jaguar does offer just the "button". Part # T2R27889
For a long time I’ve been trying to get instructions for removal of the window trim for example to paint or wrap it.
As I’ve finally found one, I thought I’d share the you tube video so others can benefit.
It does jump a few steps but shows enough to locate most screw locations and to help you decide whether or not you want to attempt it. Personally I’d have liked to see some masking tape used to protect the bodywork, just in case.
Good afternoon Ladies and guys, my wife's not ride(R) started peeling the leather on the instrument cluster cover and the center vent? You can buy new for around $350 here in the US but are there any videos showing how to?
Thanks for ANY help!
Tools required:
Plastic trim removal tools, preferably at least one with a very thin blade.
T30 Torx driver/bit
TS27 "star" security 5 point driver/bit.
Time:
Allow an hour for the first time.
Reversal:
Simply reverse the steps below, no cutting, welding or soldering required.
Step 1 - raise the spoiler and remove the two black plastic covers on the underside where the "arms" are (a gentle push from the side, inside to out, with a trim removal tool and they pop off).
This reveals two spoiler lid mounting bolts each side, Torx T30.
Step 2 - lower the spoiler all the way.
Step 3 - raise the hatch.
Step 4 - remove the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch that sit directly under those spoiler lid mounting bolts, oval shaped with cross-hatching. I first thought they were for nothing but water drainage, but noooo, removing them gives you access to the spoiler lid mounting bolts with the spoiler in the closed position - that bit is vital.
They are not at all easy to remove, I did it by using a thin plastic trim removal tool to lever up the rubber edges all the way around, sort of "untucking" them from where they are tucked in all around the mounting holes. Only then could I get a trim removal tool in and under, create a gap, then pull them down and off using my fingers.
Step 5 - remove the four T30 bolts holding the spoiler lid on, and remove the spoiler lid (carefully!).
Step 6 - close the hatch.
Step 7 - remove the spoiler mechanism black plastic cover, around 12 "star security" 5 point TS27 screws. Once you have removed those screws grab the spoiler "arms" and tug upwards, and the whole thing lifts off, held on by some wiring.
Step 8 - disconnect the spoiler power plug, a grey/white plug a bit left of centre. I just left it loose in the cavity, no tape or zip tie, it wasn't going anywhere and it wasn't going to rattle.
Step 9 - check that the spoiler no longer works. Turn the ignition on and use the spoiler button - it should light up but do nothing, and you should get a message in the message centre between the speedo & tacho saying something like "spoiler inoperative".
Step 10 - refit the spoiler arms / black cover.
Step 11 - raise the hatch, and refit the spoiler lid (the four T30 bolts). The two plastic covers that previously went over these under the spoiler are now surplus to requirements. Before you tighten those bolts right up check the fit of the spoiler, by lowering the hatch, and adjust the fit as necessary. Fact is, per the repair manual this whole procedure is purely for aligning/adjusting the fit of the spoiler!
Step 12 - refit the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch. Again not easy, I found the best way was to angle each of them in on one side, press that side until you got a faint click, then push the other side in, then thump it tight with a closed hand. Then using the trim removal tool tuck the rubber surrounds back.
Step 13 - go for a spirited drive and grin at the fact that the pesky spoiler no longer raises it's ugly head!
Hi, I know it is an old forum but I have a Piecha fixed wing on my car and I am trying to revers it back to stock but can’t seem to figure out how to unlock the spoiler so I can bring it up. Oboe do i remove the spoiler lid to re-connect the plug? Anyone know the answer?
where did you buy the T2R18771 for that price? i can’t find it.
thx
If you are talking about the Park button then you don't want the Jaguar version you want the identical Land Rover version, part # LR086213, see post #89.
Muuuuch cheaper and easier to find than the Jag one, I got one from Britcar for cheap a few years ago, fits perfectly.
Whoops!Anyway I bought a new one of those a few years ago as well, from a Lithuanian Ebay seller, quite likely this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22437530600...wAAOSwy8BgQqI6
I was worried that either it would turn out not to be the bronze one (to match my paddles) or it would be the other version with a different plug but it turned out to be perfect and took two minutes to fit.
06-08-2018, 01:46 PM
