To reset the oil change service indicator:

• Turn ignition switch to ON position but do not start the engine.
• Open the hood.
• Fully depress and the accelerator and brake pedals for 10 seconds.
• Turn off the ignition and then restart the engine.

A bit different, but simpler, than other Jags.

 

hi guys, does anyone know what type of bulbs the headlights are?

had a read through owners manual but it only lists reverse lights

looking to swap to osram cbi bulbs which have a white light - something i do on all my xenon/hid cars

 

These are supposed to be compatible - should give you a starting point...

 

The correct xenon bulb for the "R" is D3S, not D1S. I cam currently running CBI D3S bulbs in mine.

You won't find many, if any, lighting fitment guides out there that specify Jaguar xenon fitments. But, I know D3S bulbs are used in my "R" because I took out D3S bulbs when I switched over to the CBI bulbs. Both the D1S and D3S bulb design include the igniter, BTW.

D3S is the mercury-free bulb, while the more common D1S is not. Manuf's, including Jaguar, have been going with mercury-free bulbs for obvious environmental reasons. The D1S may physically fit and connect; but, the D1S bulb will not fire off due to the differences in D1S and D3S igniter/ballast design differences. (Full Disclosure: I am saying this based on what I have read and heard. I can't personally verify that a D1S bulb will not fire up in the "R." I did not want to try it.) I can say that the light from the D3S bulb is not as "white" as the D1S bulb from a side-by-side comparison with my other vehicles.

I purchased my D3S CBI (Cool Blue Intense) bulbs through Retrofit Source. Those guys were of the first companies to secure the Osram CBI bulbs state-side, and are into all sorts of retrofit and OEM lighting solutions. I trust their guidance. D3S Osram Xenarc 66340 CBI HID Bulbs - Xenon Headlight Bulbs - The Retrofit Source

 

Removing the steering wheel: less painful than I imagined.

All you need is a large watchmakers screwdriver and a dental mirror.

Also, disconnecting the battery before removing the airbag* is for wusses.

*It's classed as an Insensitive Munition. It will not cook off, let alone detonate because you disconnected it...

 

3 days in to a '16 Ammonite Grey R and looking for info on track days...apart from the "don't track it until 5000km " notice....and found on Jaguar.com a heading for "F Type on track" and a downloadable 2 pages of info. Interesting, including the recommendation those with $13000 ceramic brakes should spend more to buy ductwork for them...and cooling instructions as you leave the track.
Not sure if this isn't all common knowledge, but I found it interesting .
Under the "Personalization " section , a nice video of a guy dropping off his beautiful red 'vert for some carbon fibre accents. Clearly he and the car would be much lighter after all the cf accents were added....at least lighter in the wallet.
Alan

 

Hi all - Newbie first post from Oxford UK

I just picked up my F-Type and am loving it. However I have a diagnosed condition of compulsive stereo upgrading. It's terminal.

Does anyone have technician training material on door card and stereo removal? I see there is a PDF of the centre console trim, and I guess that the stereo mounts will be behind these, but I'd rather ask for the proper docs..
I can't find anything about the door cards..

Many thanks in advance!
MZ

 

Stumbled on this interesting list containing dealer vs MSRP prices for Jaguar accessories, part numbers, and estimated install labor.

Might be useful for folks who are price shopping parts or negotiating pricing.

Looks like the average markup is about 30%....sounds about right to me.

 

This is great info. Thanks!

 

Could not find any info here, so asking...

There are 2 rubber lugs on the left and right side of the insert, but gently coaxing with a flat bladed screwdriver did not give me a good feeling...

Anyone successfully removed and replaced the cup holder insert?

Please share?

 

Why would you need to look at your teeth to remove the steering wheel? Did you have a head on crash and the airbag did not deploy?

 

Hi guys, I have a car show coming up in a couple days and I didn't want to make a new thread for some quick questions:

Is it possible to have the running lights on without the car beeping when the doors are open?

How do you open the hood?

I have some faint leather creasing on the door, is that covered under warranty? conditioning doesn't do much.

 

1. The warning ding will automatically cancel after a minute or two. You might need to hook up the battery to a tender while you are showing the car. The running lights will drain the battery charge fairly quickly.


2. The hood release is located on the left side of the driver's foot well. Pull back on that and lift up the hood at the windshield. Use even pressure with 2 hands standing at the front of the car to close the hood again (I used the hood vents to place my hands until the mechanism loosened enough to just drop the hood from the side).

 

It's really easy, I have removed mine and replaced it with some black carpet so I now have a compartment to store my fit-overs.
Just squeeze the middle section in fairly hard and it should pull straight out.

 

As we know, the F-Type comes with four brake options, Performance, High Performance, Super Performance and Carbon Ceramic.
On the Performance and High Performance brakes the rear rotors are 326 mm, but neither the rotors or the calipers or the pads are the same as the 326 mm rear brakes that are standard on most modern Jags such as the XF and XJ, the F-Type has unique rotors, calipers and pads. Thanks JLR!
I had the rear brake pads renewed today, I would normally do that supposedly quite simple job myself, but I was stumped by the peculiar brake pistons in these brakes. They are like nothing I have ever seen before and I could not figure out how to wind them back. I have a brake windback tool kit but none of the tools would fit these pistons, they have three slots in them as opposed to the normal 2 or sometimes 4 holes.
My brake bloke really struggled to wind them back, he didn't have a tool for them, so he attacked them with long needle-nosed pliers. He got only so far before they "locked up", and at that stage the calipers with the new pads were about 1 mm too tight to fit back over, and they were catching on the pad backing plates. After much head scratching we eventually figured out the solution - push (not wind) the pistons back in the last mm or so with a piston windback tool using one of the flat plate attachments.
So, the answer is "wind the pistons back as far as you can then push them back the last 1 or 2 mm".
Here is a pic of one of the pistons so you can see what they look like:

 

I've never had to use a wind-back tool on any calipers I've worked on. Just compress the piston to provide adequate clearance. How are these calipers designed? Is there some kind of thread involved, and what purpose does it serve in this type of (linear) hydraulic application.

 

Part of the issue is the electric parking brake. Towards the end of this document, there's a section on pad replacement.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uajlxghl1a...brake.pdf?dl=0


This document on the brakes has the specs, but nothing about changing pads...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x0x62a2t0z...rakes.pdf?dl=0

 

You've been fortunate my friend. On the MR2 that I had, the fronts were press in and the rear were screw in. I've worked on lots of other cars that were similar.

 

Thanks for that!
Yep, page 5.35 of the first doc sets out the procedure for putting the EPB in service mode for a pad change. I had seen that before somewhere, and I had intended to take it with me to the brake shop, but for the life of me I couldn't find it again!
But we got there in the end and both the brakes and the EPB are working perfectly, so like many Jag procedures that one is not absolutely necessary.
In hindsight it may be that the brake piston doesn't need to wound back at all, and it simply pushes back in, and the initial retraction was all down to the pushing and not the winding (my brake bloke was pushing hard at the same time he was winding). All I know is that on both my XFs the rear pistons had to be wound back in and I assumed the F-Type would be the same. Time for some more research!

 

Tools required:
Plastic trim removal tools, preferably at least one with a very thin blade.
T30 Torx driver/bit
TS27 "star" security 5 point driver/bit.

Time:
Allow an hour for the first time.

Reversal:
Simply reverse the steps below, no cutting, welding or soldering required.

Cross posted from here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post1614196

Step 1 - raise the spoiler and remove the two black plastic covers on the underside where the "arms" are (a gentle push from the side, inside to out, with a trim removal tool and they pop off).
This reveals two spoiler lid mounting bolts each side, Torx T30.
Step 2 - lower the spoiler all the way.
Step 3 - raise the hatch.
Step 4 - remove the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch that sit directly under those spoiler lid mounting bolts, oval shaped with cross-hatching. I first thought they were for nothing but water drainage, but noooo, removing them gives you access to the spoiler lid mounting bolts with the spoiler in the closed position - that bit is vital.
They are not at all easy to remove, I did it by using a thin plastic trim removal tool to lever up the rubber edges all the way around, sort of "untucking" them from where they are tucked in all around the mounting holes. Only then could I get a trim removal tool in and under, create a gap, then pull them down and off using my fingers.
Step 5 - remove the four T30 bolts holding the spoiler lid on, and remove the spoiler lid (carefully!).
Step 6 - close the hatch.
Step 7 - remove the spoiler mechanism black plastic cover, around 12 "star security" 5 point TS27 screws. Once you have removed those screws grab the spoiler "arms" and tug upwards, and the whole thing lifts off, held on by some wiring.
Step 8 - disconnect the spoiler power plug, a grey/white plug a bit left of centre. I just left it loose in the cavity, no tape or zip tie, it wasn't going anywhere and it wasn't going to rattle.
Step 9 - check that the spoiler no longer works. Turn the ignition on and use the spoiler button - it should light up but do nothing, and you should get a message in the message centre between the speedo & tacho saying something like "spoiler inoperative".
Step 10 - refit the spoiler arms / black cover.
Step 11 - raise the hatch, and refit the spoiler lid (the four T30 bolts). The two plastic covers that previously went over these under the spoiler are now surplus to requirements. Before you tighten those bolts right up check the fit of the spoiler, by lowering the hatch, and adjust the fit as necessary. Fact is, per the repair manual this whole procedure is purely for aligning/adjusting the fit of the spoiler!
Step 12 - refit the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch. Again not easy, I found the best way was to angle each of them in on one side, press that side until you got a faint click, then push the other side in, then thump it tight with a closed hand. Then using the trim removal tool tuck the rubber surrounds back.
Step 13 - go for a spirited drive and grin at the fact that the pesky spoiler no longer raises it's ugly head!