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Just a shot in the dark, but anyway to remove the spark plugs and use a magnet to retrieve it? Probably not a bad idea to bore scope it too if it rattled around for awhile.
It's still stuck in the head, it didn't fall in. This is a big long shot, but maybe try screwing a broken-bolt "EZ out" into the remains and yanking on that. Given the access restrictions though, that could be hard or impossible. I hate to be the one to say it, but it's very likely that the head will have to come off.
For those of us who may have to pull injectors, how did this happen? Was the extractor tool being wiggled back and forth during use? This could have developed a fatigue failure at that point. Sorry to poor salt on the pain but if it helps someone else avoid this, maybe it's not all bad.
Here's another idea: Drill into and tap the remaining part for a large bolt, one long enough to extend out the top, and attach a slide hammer to that. If you don't have room for a regular drill, maybe rent a right-angle one.
Add some oil to that cylinder and turn the engine over by hand with a wrench to see if the hydrostatic pressure can push it out.
More heavy handed is to:
1. Disable the fuel pump - whether that's mechanical or electrical, fuel delivery must be eliminated so that it doesn't spray everywhere out of the fuel hose that's disconnected!
2. Put something over the broken injector if case this works.
3. Use starting fluid and spray it into the throttle body.
4. Start the engine - it'll only run for a second, but the high cylinder pressure MAY blow the injector out - maybe with serious force, so be ready.
All these suggestions require thinking, understanding, and safety precautions!
Id vote for drill and tap. But make sure to soak the injector for 48+ hours with pb blaster or something similar (i think liquid moly also makes something)
Before being able to remove my injectors, I soaked it like twice a day and tried the slide hammer each time. After the 3rd day of not working I ended up using a shop crane, as someone else on here used. The car was lifting off the ground before the injector came out, if that gives any indication of how seized it was.
I had to remove the head and actually had to buy a whole new engine. Engine costed 13 grand, labor and misc parts, etc costed another ~7 grand. 20 grand in total to get the car running again. Fun times.
I had to remove the head and actually had to buy a whole new engine. Engine costed 13 grand, labor and misc parts, etc costed another ~7 grand. 20 grand in total to get the car running again. Fun times.
F TYPE cylinder 4 Injector removal / possible hole rebore?
Hi all, first post here.
I was removing a seized injector from my Jaguar F-Type 3.0 supercharged, and it's gone a bit sideways. The injector is out, but the outer metal sleeve is still stuck in the bore. I've drilled most of it out and tried welding a nut onto it multiple times, but the welds kept breaking because the metal is too thin. I also attempted CO₂ cooling to contract it, but it’s still seized solid. There’s a chance I might have damaged the bore in the process, so I need someone to take a look and see if it can still be removed cleanly or if I’ve completely messed it up. I've attached the photos for you to look at.Any idea what I should do now?! Apart from take it to a specialist (any recommendations would be greatly appreciated) as the first removal guy left my drive unsuccessful...
Prior to attempting to remove the injector(s), did you allow the bore to soak with a penetrating oil for several days?
Based on the appearance of the injector bore, I believe it best to remove the cylinder head from the engine. If the bore is indeed damaged, a used head from a reputable breaker's yard may be a good solution.
Unfortunately not. I was naive to the issues that have arisen as have never been an issue in previous cars I've owned.
I've thought about a used head, as you said from a reputable source, however the risk due to the complexities of even getting the timing correct first time etc etc opens a can of worms that I feel, even for the best of mechanics, is quite likely... Is there anything else I can do do you think? I was told to crank the engine and possibly it would shoot it out (as well as get petrol all over the engine bay!! Which would not be ideal or safe for that matter...)
In the spirit of offering ideas, that sleeve looks pretty consistent all around. I might try to find an appropriate sized tap and thread that in part way. Then, put a slide hammer on the tap. The action of tapping the sleeve may also help to loosen it from the wall.
Most other methods I can think of will result in debris into the cylinder head. Not sure how much of a problem that is. You might consider an appropriately-sized reaming tool, along with a vacuum hose to try and capture most of the debris. That hole could be reamed out fairly easily in this way, but the debris problem needs to be considered.
Another idea is to put a bit of oil into the spark plug hole, then pressurize that cylinder through the spark plug hole with an adapter connected to a compressor. This might blow out the plug. You could possibly combine pressurizing the cylinder with a ream, to keep debris out of the cylinder while you ream out the hole.
disclaimer: all these are just ideas provided in the spirit of brainstorming a solution.
Remove the head. That is the only way. With what the pictures show I would have a used head sitting in my garage as the odds are very high that your OEM head is badly damaged at this point.
Many engines are DOHC and yes setting the timing is a critical task but covered fully in the shop manual. You do have a service manual?
If not stop right now and get one.
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Have a read of what's involved. If you don't have the tools or technical knowledge, it may be best to find a reputable Jaguar specialist or main dealer to perform the work.