I am due for an oil change and typically like to do them myself - mostly for convenience. I have not been under this car yet. Anything special about it. Someone told me I might have to remove a skid plate which could take an hour. If so I will turn it over to the dealer.

Thanks

 

 

I'll be changing my oil for the first time (first time me changing it, that is) this weekend. Bought the Mityvac and a filter socket. Note that the oil isn't always easy to find; I got it from roverparts.com, along with the filter element.


I don't think taking the panel off the bottom would be a big deal, but you'd need ramps or a lift. The filter is on top of the engine and easy to get to.

 

I ordered the mityvac and socket as well. This will be the first time I have pumped oil out of a car but with the evacuator tube it sounds easy enough.

 

It's actually a very easy way to change oil, once you have the extractor. Benz's have been doing it this way for years. I already have one, as that is the way it is done on my Crossfire (SLK32 motor), I just need an adapter as the tubes are a different size. Getting the oil however, is a different matter apparently, any good sources, other than Jag dealers ?

 

As mentioned a couple of posts ago, I just got mine from roverparts.com. They are LR only, not Jag, but same magic oil.

 

If you have a compressor, go for this. I use it all the time, reliable and cheap
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-...tor-46149.html

Run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes (if it's cold), shut off. Remove the oil filter cap (grey plastic). Connect the vacuum hose from the extractor to the small center pipe under the oil filler cap. Let it drain, complete the oil filter change (careful with the O rings). Refill with fresh oil. Then starts the pain part.... run the engine for a coupe of minutes, shut off and wait 5 minutes to check the oil level with the electronic gauge in the menu

 

What is so great about this oil vs other full synthetics?

 

Lots of titanium.

 

I had previously said 25 ft-lb for the filter. Oops. It's 25 N-m, which is about 18.4 ft-lb.

 

My oil filter cover has alignment marks on it (drawn on with a purple felt tip pen by the look of it) to show how far it should be tightened, does anyone else's?

 

Been changing oil through the drain plug for all my life.
Tried the mightyvac. Would not go back to the other way.
Advantages include being able to see exactly how much oil was remaining- without laborious measuring. Easy clean pumping of used oil back into containers, because the mightyvac also works in reverse as a pump. Really comes in handy when needing to dispense fluids such as diff. And you can use it to vacuum out master cylinder and bleed brakes. Also for our V8 engines it can hold the copious amounts (9quarts) of oil.

Note: dont pump hot oil. You dont want it to be cold either.

 

Just changed mine this evening. Mityvac pumped out 7 liters, I added 7 quarts. Switched the electronic dipstick to instantaneous mode, and watched it tick up to 100% full. Ran the engine for 10 min, then waited 10 min, and it was down two tick marks. Put the dipstick back in instantaneous mode, and added about 1/3 at to get it up to 100%.

Didn't notice if my filter can had a witness mark, but I used a torque wrench.

I don't think the strange procedure to reset the service message worked, I'll try it again as necessary.

BTW, the dipstick said 100% full before the oil change, after one year and 8000 miles. My car does not burn oil, it's always at 100% prior to an oil change.

 

Just had our third service done, and it's out with Castrol and in with Mobil 1 0W-20 now.

 

I've always had a difficult time getting the F-Type to read the oil level. It seemed to take a perfect combination of run time to warm the oil and cooling or drip down time to get a reading. Most times it just comes back with oil level reading is unavailable. I thought that there must be some secret way for mechanics to get a reading as they would not waste time on this. I found a YouTube video on a Jag XF that talked about getting a reading by double pushing the console button. I tried various buttons on the F-Type and found that the CAN button on the right steering spoke would get a reading every time. When the dreaded "reading is unavailable" just double push the CAN button and it will reveal the oil level.

 

Just check it in the morning after leaving it overnight, works first time every time!

 

Yes, just note that the display on a cold engine will be ~1/4 liter less than the HOT AFTER 10 MINUTES level.

 

I went out to try the cold oil level check with the double click of the "can" button procedure and now I'm really confused. The car had not been started since Friday but the oil level showed simply by utilizing the menu and clicking to "check oil level" without starting the engine.?????????

 

Thart's right, the restriction seems to be that you can't see the level for around 10 minutes after running the engine. So next morning meets the "more than 10 minutes" rule.

 

Just completed an oil and filter change this morning, including running a tin of BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration - a fancy name for oil flush) through the old oil. Warm engine up, add the EPR, run for 10 minutes at 1,200 rpm then dump the old oil.
It looks like the EPR did it's job, the 6 months and 3,000 miles old oil came out fully black and the insides of the exhaust tips are the blackest I have ever seen them.
This time I went with the sump plug method rather than extraction pump out the top method due to doing the oil flush, I wanted to make sure I got as much of the old crud out as possible. Next time (six months from now) I'll just go with the extraction pump.
I also for the first time tried removing just the middle under-tray (which covers the sump plug) without touching the front under-tray, and it worked a charm with zero problems. Four 10 mm bolts (two front and two back) and two 10 mm nuts (in the middle). Pro tip - loosen the back two 10 mm bolts of the front under-tray, this makes it much easier to slide the front edge of the middle under-tray back under again.
I also added a 325 ml tin of BG MOA to the new oil and measured the new oil amount for just a tad under the full 7.25 litre amount just in case my calcs and/or measuring jug were skew whiff in some way - much easier to add a bit more than to have to extract some. 7.25 - .325 = 6.925 so I measured as best I could 6.875 litres of new oil to leave .05 litres (50 ml) leeway.
Checked the leccy oil level readout straight after, smack on the max mark, winning!
Only one hassle - I bought an after-market el cheapo magnetic sump plug ages ago and it's thread turned out to be miles too skinny, so back in with the OEM sump plug.