I have been recommending the use of this type of engine flush for years.
Its a must.
There are several companies that make this type of flush, which basically just breaks down the glue in the oil that makes it stick to the walls.
My favorite is Lubegard engine flush, these folks make legendary friction modifiers, which is what these engine flushes are.
Ravenol, Liqui-Moly, all of them are the same.

There is no need to bottom drain it. I discovered this by asking around engineers. The flush does not make heavier particles sink, as old petroleum based flushes did. This just makes the oil less sticky.

 

Is the oil drain plug really difficult to get to for some reason? My F-Type S is showing overfilled, so I'd like to just drain a bit instead of taking it all the way to the dealership. Plus, I'd like to get a sample of the oil to send off for analysis. I had the oil changed last April and the level checked as good a couple of times. More recently it's showing as overfilled which seems odd. I was thinking that I'd just loosen the oil drain plug and let it drip until about half a quart came out. I'm just wondering why most everyone seems to pump it out when it seems that doing that would leave some oil in the pan.

 

Just spend the $100 on an evacuator from Amazon- its the best money you will ever spend and its vital to ownership of a F-type.
For instance, you want to check if oil and water have mixed, or if the digital oil level meter is accurate. You can just pump out the oil in 5 minutes and put it back without making a mess or jacking up the car- which itself is not easy to do.

We have all gone through this reasoning about just doing it the old way, it is in fact just that, resistance to change. You will not get as much oil out if you were to use the drain plug. (cause the car wont be level)

 

The oil is so thin that you'd likely make a mess trying to remove just a little via the sump. It comes out FAST.


"It's a gusher, Uncle Jed"


If you don't have an extractor pump, perhaps using a turkey baster in the oil filter canister? A bit tedious I'd imagine...

 

I completely do not understand this. As with all of my cars, I tilt the car in the direction that allows the most oil to drain out. This leaves the oil pan basically empty. If you're extracting oil via a tube, all of the oil from the bottom of the pan to the peak height of the tube will fall back down in the pan.

In the past when I've overfilled an engine with oil, I've unscrewed the drain bolt just to the point that it starts to drip. It takes a while, but getting out half a quart isn't a big deal. Of course I have to be careful not to unscrew the plug too much or it would make an absolute mess.

Is it an ordeal to get to the drain plug because rock shields have to be removed or is the pump method simply preferred because it's easier than getting under a car?

 

The pump method is better for numerous reasons, even without the convenience. Once you do it you will be a believer. The car is not designed to be drained from the bottom regularly- you will do more harm than good. In case you attempt it, make sure you procure an oil plug gasket before you remove, or you will be taking that undertray off again.
As per the amount of oil that remains in the tube when you reach air- there is a lot more oil in several nook and crannies, the oil filter housing holds a ton.
If you are concerned about this, just pour half a quart of oil down the filter housing and siphon that up. I have started doing double-oil changes with inexpensive oil as the sacrificial one.

 

Please understand that I'm not trying to be argumentative. I'm just wanting to learn. I recognize that it's designed so that the oil can be taken out using a pump. If not, they wouldn't have the part that the tube connects to. However, I don't understand what could possibly be harmful about draining from a plug on the bottom of the oil pan, assuming one's there.

Thanks for letting me know about this. I have one more oil change included with my "free" maintenance. After that, I'll be doing it myself. My S2000 has a gasket as well. I've had so many cars over the years that don't have such gaskets and they never have leaked. It makes me wonder why the engineers set it up to require one.

I'm not really concerned. If the oil goes from 100% used to only 95% new and 5% used, then I'm sure it will be just fine. That said, half a quart idea is a good one. Thanks.

 

I put my car up on ramps to drain the oil. You have to remove the central cover on the bottom of the car that is under the oil pan. this has about 5, 10mm bolts if I remember right. Not a big deal. If your like me and like to do the oil change the old mans way invest in some good ramps. Remember the drain plug has a rubber gasket built in next to the head of the plug. If you back it off make sure the rubber gasket is still in good shape as it will leak. You have to replace the plug as no gasket can be placed separate. Not much money for a new plug. Just see how it looks if you only back off enough to let it drip. Other wise just do a oil change and replace the drain plug.

 

Sure, the pro and cons if you will.
The downsides for no upside are; you are going to be jacking up a car not entirely jack friendly. There is a cost here of doing it repeatedly, bending the crimp, stressing the frame. Removing a dirty panel, possibly fighting the small fasteners. Having to put it all back. There is also risk. And on my v8 supercharged, it holds nearly 9qts of oil, so thats a big pan to fight.
All for no advantage. The siphon tube goes to about the same point. And you will need a vacuum canister anyway if you are going to check the oil between changes.

Even if you were already down there, I really cant think of any upsides other than to see if you have leaks.

 

Separate point. By my calculation 20% old oil remains regardless of draining method.
In my books; not good.

 

20%! That's weird. There must be another low point that traps the oil. Are you basing that on the owner's manual stated capacity versus what you're able to get out?

 

Original factory fill vs refill
In my V8 original fill is 8.9l and a change fill with filter change is about 7.2l. 1.7l of old remains in the engine at each change.
I was shocked too. Another forum member bought it to our attention.
Lots of nooks. When you take the filter out and try to siphon out the oil or use a rag, you will see, just the oil in those nooks is tremendous.

 

DISCOVERY 4 or LR4 - 2013 5.0, non supercharged with same engine - 97.5K miles and roughly a 9L change each time, always changed at 7500 miles by me - not the dealer intervals ever since new and via mitivac only - still runs like a top today! Don't sweat it. Just change more often if you are concerned.

 

What else are you changing at the same intervals?

 

Anyone know how to change the oil on the 2.0?

There is no electronic oil level. A dipstick is in there!

Does that mean there is an easily removed drain plug?

 

None. Search for independent recommendations and do it yourself or pay for at an independent. Way more economical to DIY, but depends on your availabilities or mechanical capabilities. I have always done myself. Last Disco 2 4.0 went 270K miles with aggressive maintenance done by me.
Dealers make big dollars off of repairs, not preventative repairs.

 

Good info here. Appreciate it. I plan on using the drain plug method as well, when it is time (haven't needed to yet), and will likely do one + change between each dealer maintenance scheduled oil change.

I have an EZ-Valve that fits the V8 S/C I plan on installing, then you simply open and drain and close when done. Also, if you have an over-fill situation, easy to bleed off small amounts. I have used these on several of my Porsches and they work great and are very well made. On my 997 Turbo, there were two drains, and one was an upright tank with about 6 quarts in it vertically (think firehose), and made of thin aluminum so always a risk of a $4K mistake if you twisted the drain plug wrong! On my Cayenne S, also have to remove a pan, but still easy enough to do.

I also have a lift, so even when elevated, it will be level. And because of the huge oil capacities in the Porsches, I have 12 qt. drain pans, so should be easy enough. Will let you know after I install the EZ-Valve and do the first change...

DC

 

after 2 mityvac's didn't work for me, and with my 12 month oil change now due, i thought ill give it one last red hot go

so after some research online, and not being a fan of having to hand pump harder than a carny inflating a jumping castle, i decided to go for one of these where i can hook up my air compressor and chill

fingers crossed 3rd time's a charm

 

The method shown in that video is NOT how you do it on a modern Jag!
You don't poke anything down the oil extraction tube, instead you fit one end of the pump tube over the top of the oil extraction tube.
The secret to get the pump working properly, and this includes Mityvac, is to make sure you have a good solid air tight seal of the pump tube over the end of the extraction tube. The pump relies on a decent vacuum to work properly (duh, that is why it is called a vacuum pump!) and without that good seal you can pump away for ages and get nowhere fast. With a good seal it only takes a few pumps to empty the sump, it keeps on sucking way after you have stopped pumping.
Don't ask me how how learned this, just believe me when I say I learned it the hard way!
I'm guessing that is why your first two tries didn't work Dom.

 

i tried numerous things and couldn’t get it to work, including submerging the hose in a bucket and it still wouldn’t suck

but yeh I’d hope 1 of the 4 supplied hoses in the pneumatic pump kit fits over the oil extraction tube with a tight fit