Thanks, was not aware of the indentations which will make the installation a breeze.

 

All good. If I was doing as many things to my car at the same time as you are my head would be spinning too ;-)

I like to limit the wires whenever I can, so may look at it.

 

Picked up my trim molding at the dealership this morning. Sadly, no clips came with the wheel spats so they ordered 12 of them for me because each molding actually has 6 indentations which should make it more secure.

 

Can you post a couple of pics of the rear camera installed in your rear window?

 

Yeah, it’s not entirely clear to me how exactly you are planning to cleanly route the cable to the back…

 

SOME INTERESTING NEWS in regard to the Fitcamx…

So, I contacted the manufacturer and asked them if there were any plans to make this battery user replaceable. Well, apparently according to their support this change has already happened.

So, unless you received old stock you should be good. Here is a picture that their support staff sent me showing what the new user replaceable battery setup looks like —>

 

Thank you for reaching out to them!! Looks like I have the updated version then. Cool!

 

I have not completed the routing... only routed the cable to the back... inserting along the trim/molding... then, in the back, I just left it exposed for now. Plan is to route it via the rubber hose that connects the rear hatch light to the rest of the car.

Getting ready to go out on a motorcycle trip... let me see if I can take a few photos to clarify what I am planning to do...

 

A few photos... again, not finished, just done good enough for it to work while I finish routing the cable.




Cable is routed behind the trim and behind the rubber door seals... in the front it is routed along the windshield pillar/trim... I hope that made sense. It is easy to insert using a plastic trim tool to help you create the gap to insert the cable. The rubber door seal is even easier since that one you can just peel back with your fingers as you insert the cable all the way back into it.

 

And here is what I was planning on doing, if it is not too difficult to remove the grommets on the ends of the rubber hose. Then route the cable and make a small hole on the lid cover to get the cable out. Finish with a grommet around the cable. I hope that makes sense.




Some of those grommets on other vehicles, tend to break if you remove them... so if they do not come off easy, I will leave it alone and keep it as it is now.

Also, I did not center the camera on purpose. I did not wanted it in my line of sight when looking through the rearview mirror.

 

Excellent - just what I wanted to see. Thank you

 

I think if I was to proceed with the install of this product I would find a way to instead just mount the rear camera on that flat little platform there that is just north of the tonneau cover towards the front of the car...So, sit the camera on that platform in the middle in the area between that useless little mesh holding pouch and the edge of the platform towards the back of the car where it meets the tonneau cover...Just neatly routing the cable from where it comes out on the side of the car at the back and run/clip it along the front edge of that platform where it meets the tonneau cover (or under the front edge if possible).

I see where you routed the rear camera wire front-to-back through that nice easy path behind that flexible rubber moulding there that runs front-to-back...That is easy/clean, and then I could from there just cleanly bring the wire to the location of the rear camera I plan to use (as described in the previous paragraph).

What I am NOT clear on is how you cleanly got the wire for the back camera from the front camera to the side of the car so that you can then send it through that nice easy rubber moulding channel front-to-back. Did you just somehow run it along the top of the window tucked behind that blackout material that is there on the window, and then just have the wire exposed a bit as you cross over the a-pillar into that front-to-back rubber moulding channel?

Cheers

 

Went ahead and ordered a pair of those door logo lights...

Amazon Link

I went with this one to try it out. I really like the leaper.

 

In the front, yes, along the top of the window tucked behind the blackout material. The wire is not exposed when reaching the a-pillar, that is a two piece trim and the cable can be inserted in the split between the side cover and top cover.

A plastic trim tool is perfect to get the gap open to insert the cable behind it.

A few photos for clarity:

Here I tried to pull the cable out a little bit so you could see the routing...



Inserted back using plastic trim tool (well, that one in the photo is just a bicycle tire removing tool since I had put away the trim tools, lol)



Then you route between these two pieces



Using the trim tool to show better where it is...



From there is just under the rubber door seal...



All the way to the back and inside those two rear pieces... Now, looking at the photo, I can see that I need to go back and reinsert it... a little bit of the cable is not fully inserted. I can see it near the plastic trim for the rollbar.



I hope that helps.

 

That's the one I installed a couple of months ago. Takes about 30 seconds to install on each side. Looks good at night.

 

Great! That is reassuring.

 

I shared this video in another thread


and when looking at it, noticed that there was still some protective wrap on the car, at the bottom of the rear diffuser. Now removed!



Still waiting for the dealer to call me when the engine cover arrives.

Also want to get two additional clips for the fender edge trim I installed. Should have ordered 12 clips instead of 10.


My only mods pending:

1. Install an ASR Valve Exhaust flap control (RX1)
2. Orient center caps correctly. Looks like I need to remove the wheels to be able to do this... so it will have to wait.
3. Remove safety wheel lock and install original lug nut, before I misplace the key. Might do this today after work.
4. Test fit the 19" spare set of wheels that I have. If those fit, then send them to be powder coated to match those in the car now. Get a set of good tires for it and swap original setup for these. The last thing that I want is to damage the wheels that came with the car. I really like them a lot.
5. Still trying to decide on the overheating early warning options available. For example: The Overheating Early Warning that @JagCode3 did. The display he used is now replaced for another version. Shadow OBDII Display

 

We have self-centering growler caps that are ALWAYS upright.

They glow in the dark when the car is moving, too. <-- wife's idea of a great MODIFICATION.

 

That is cool. Would be nice to see on a video what it look like.

On other news, got rid of the lock/security lug nuts. All stock lug nuts back in place. Took the time to check the torque on the other lug nuts.



But the cat is still pointing where it was. I need to remove the wheels to pop that out... I was spoiled with the slide bolt that I had for one of my other cars... easier to remove and install a wheel without the risk of any damage to the wheel, caliper, or myself. In that car it was even more helpful because it was using bolts and not lug nuts. It was a royal PITA to align and hold in place while inserting the bolts... two guides bolted and the wheel was always aligned and I did not have to fight it while trying to raise and hold it in alignment.

So I wanted the same for this car. Look like it is a 12x1.5 thread. I was going to make it myself, but found them already made in stainless steel. So went ahead and ordered two of these:

Steelman Wheel Alignment Pin M12 x 1.5 Female Thread Pilot Guide Lug Bolt Tool

 

I have been using those for years & highly recommend them.