My 2014 V8 F-Type has 45k miles and as many sunny days as we've been having I will definitely hit 48k soon. My thought is to do the 48k list as well as the 6-years stuff, and knock out some important preventive stuff at the same time. It's winter so I can leave it on the lift for a few weekends and not pout about it too much. Plus while I have some maintenance records from the previous owner and my car was mostly dealer serviced, you never know. So I'm looking at:

[Edited to add your suggestions]
1. Oil and filter change (I went with Liqui Moly 0w20 and MAH-OX774DECO filter)
2. Replacing the brake fluid (supposed to be every 3 years, probably due) (DOT 4 LV - I'm going with the Pentosin 1224116)
3. Replacing the spark plugs (supposed to be every 6 so probably never been done) (NGK 94940)
4. Replacing the supercharger drive belt (supposed to be every 6 so probably never been done) (Contitech C2D39175)
5. Replacing the air filter and the pollen filter (with the fires we had this summer, both probably need it) (MAN-C36008, MAN-C36009, CTO-80000606)
6. Replacing the ZF transmission fluid (based on Rock's excellent guide, and sparayno1's video below) (ZF Lifeguard 8 Fluid - not sure where to find that yet)
7. Replacing the differential fluid
8. Replacing supercharger oil (based on this thread/guide) ( Eaton Synthetic Supercharger Oil )
9. Replacing the battery (??)
10. Coolant flush (but under protest - it's such a pain to dispose of )

I'm also changing the rear brake pads because they are due. And I ran a bottle of BG 44K through it this week.
Since at least half the time I'm driving it's to make the most noise possible, I figure I should be a little ahead on maintenance.

Is there anything else y'all suggest I should consider doing this winter? Something about supercharger oil? Added to the list!

 

Might be a good time to preemptively change the battery, if you’re still on the original. Consider replacing or removing the ECO battery at the same time.

 

What about engine coolant?

Supercharger oil and differential fluids are also due soon.

 

I thought about the coolant but it’s not due until 10 years. And that’s definitely my least favorite fluid to change. 🤢

I couldn’t find anything in the maintenance schedule or the owner manual about either the supercharger or the differential. I did find the diff into in the FSM tho. But no schedule or expectations for it.

 

Don’t forget Rear Diff fluid change. Mine looked real bad:

 

Yep, just like the auto trans according to JLR the SC and diff fluids are "filled for life" which is why they don't appear in the service schedule.
Filled for the life of the new car warranty it seems!

 

Ha! Apparently so.

 

Wow those are excellent, thanks!

 

This!!!!!! And do it now. Your car is exactly the same age as mine. Mine just died. I can guarantee, yours will die within a few months. You can do this work yourself, however it is NOT as easy as other brands. You have to alot some time to it. You will need a 10mm wrench and make sure that you take off the negative first.. The positioning of the battery must be exact. If not, then the battery will not fit in. It is as if you are working on a nuclear reactor. IT MUST BE EXACTLY put in to fit. Also, you must really put the connection portions ALL THE WAY DOWN the terminal posts. If you don't, you will get flickering or not connection at all. My recommendation is to take pictures of everything (both posts) BEFORE you start the job. The negative wire is really tight and is difficult to "stretch" to put over the edge of the post. There is no slop at all. Don't be discouraged. Also, don't do this at the local auto parts store who does this for free. Believe me.....they can't do it. I am a good mechanic. I had a challenge with it. Some 15 year old will screw up your car and you will be stuck.

Additional advice is to position your car in your garage with the ability to get it towed if you screw it up.
If you need help or want further information...pm me.

 

Hmm, I had no difficulty changing mine this spring. But inspect the new battery - I got home from AutoZone and discovered the body around the positive terminal was cracked. Had to go back and exchange it.

 

Way too long. Coolant should be changed every 2-3 years regardless of manufacturer's recommendation.

I know, but you would like internal corrosion and deposits even less. You can be lazy and just drain the radiator twice in short order and call it done.

They are not a lifetime fill, as no such thing exists. Someone pulled specs from supercharger manufacturer to check, I think it is 6 or 8 years. It is Eaton TVS R1900.

 

Ugghhh ok ok! I'll do it but I don't have to be happy about it. 😉

It looks like the XK8 folks are using GM AC Delco supercharger oil and a syringe pump to get it done... but I'd rather order Eaton Supercharger oil and do it properly. So I'll go hunt that down. Thanks!

 

They appear in the schedules for my MY18 ....

 

The first time I did it on the coupe, it was indeed a bearcat. But wrestling it in and out a few times (while test fitting a lithium battery), the task of R&Ring the OEM battery became fast and simple. Just knowing when to twist and turn the battery as it's coming out or going in and when to tighten the ground connection is the trick.

 

I would get the Eaton SC Oil to be safe. It only takes about 5 Oz. +/- (I think ~160 ML)...You can get that here (with the kit/Syringe) LINK

And you can get the OEM ZF Fluid for the 8HP70 Transmission here. LINK

 

I can't edit my post anymore (was hoping to make a nice list for the next person) but I tracked down the right model Odyssey battery:
ODP-AGM49 H8 L5 (49-950)
https://www.odysseybattery.com/produ...attery-49-950/

Or there's the Duralast Platinum one from AutoZone:
Part # H8-AGM SKU # 319459
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/319459_0_0


@Therock88 I'm a little sketch about ordering transmission fluid from Ebay. Any specific seller you have found to be reliable?

 

Honestly, this is a very helpful thread. Unfortunately, this website does not have many of these, while other car makes have stuff on their websites that are heavy into the details. Thanks to the Original Poster for taking the time to do this. It will help a ton of people in the future, even though they may not credit you with it.

 

Other than the eBay seller's rep., you are ordering the OEM ZF Spec Oil sealed. I ordered from a seller closer (in Chicago) so it came quicker, but they are down to only 4 liters left. As long as it is the correct fluid, it should not be an issue.

You could also order from FCP Euro - HERE Slightly more
or CARID - HERE

DC

 

That’s the one I installed this spring. Currently in storage on a battery tender.

 

There's loads of stuff on here if you search hard enough and most definitely about servicing and what to change.