So what I don't get: if you guys who switch to 140kpa caps don't see any release from the cap i.e. boiling over, wouldn't that indicate that system pressure never exceeds that threshold? If that's the case, how is a 200kpa cap harming anything? Only thing I can think of is if your car is actually overheating from low coolant, air bubbles, etc. In those situations, the problem lies elsewhere and I doubt the caps will make a difference unless you're overheating it all the time.

 

Surely you should think of the cap as a safety valve - like an electrical fuse - neither one should be triggered in normal use, there to protect hoses etc. in the event of a problem. So rating doesn't particularly matter as long as not too low. This is a pressure relief cap not a regulator.

 

Agree, my point was there was some hypothesis that the higher pressure cap put more stress on the coolant pipe seams, but maybe I read it wrong. The coolant pressure should float well below 140 (and 200) kpa in anything but extreme situations where something else is usually a problem. Shouldn't make a difference except maybe slightly more protective of the engine overall in the case of an overheat (i.e. you see steam earlier and know to shut it down immediately).

 

I'd rather have my system work up to 200 if that was how it was designed to work...which it was because that is the cap they chose to use. The original plastic tubes were not up to the task....so replacing them with stronger units is best.

I looked at a new F-type and it was 200..so not sure why your dealer gave you 140. And not sure why on some cars it seems to be 140 and others 200...have not looked at other cars but it is possibel the radiator's on larger cars are larger and don't need to go over 140, who knows.

Anyway, just to reasure you that I do fully understand your point and post, just don't agree with the logic. I put metal pipes in my car and now will leave it at 200 as designed given things work just fine now - I don't want to have any overheating issues with the car. Ever. I bought a 140 cap...thought about it...and decided to use 140 would be an error. Just my way of thinking. Best.

 

 

Boroscoped mine...no issues on mine.

Best,

jb

 

are these new style pipes whats currently used? If so what year did they start being used....

 

My MY2017, from what I have found, was built very late 2016. It had the flanged plastic pipes. It's always difficult to know the exact point and car that the change to the solid round pipes was effected. No different than the production changes that E types went through. What was still in the parts bin?? I would say that a mid to late 2017 production F may have those new pipes. I was fortunate enough to have my old style pipes replaced under warranty in early 2022. I also bought a set of the aluminum ones, as I do'n't think plastic and hot liquids together will last long in an engine compartment. There are many threads about these pipes here, take some time to read through them.

 

If by "new style pipes" you are referring to the alloy pipes pictured then no, those pipes are purely aftermarket.
The factory pipes are still plastic but improved from the early versions, the later factory pipes are one piece and smooth with no plasti-welded seams down the middle which was the main failure point of the old pipes.
The changeover AFAICT was some time in 2016 and/or with the 2016 MY.

Edit - too slow as usual, beaten to it by Valerie! And the changeover may have been in 2017 not 2016.

 

thanks everyone, yes I was referring to the newer plastic OEM.....I'm looking to buy an F=type, but looking more in the 2019/20 range, so won't be an issue

 

The changeover was in later 2018 with some late MY18s and all the 2019s and on. Early 2018s have the plasti-welded seams still.

 

Still an issue, just not as big of one.

 

It's an interesting topic. We ordered some of the aluminum items from Alibaba to see if it was something we wanted to sell. They aren't expensive but it's the shipping cost that adds quite a bit, so ordering 50 or 100 sets and sending by sea freight makes sense.

Our team had some concerns about the fitment of the parts. The OEM stuff slots into the holes pretty smoothly and square. The aluminum ones were not perfectly aligned and you can push them in but doing so pinches the O-Rings. My tech director and service manager concluded that they were too concerned about the O-ring longevity.

 

Stuart don't know if your aware but the originators of these make them here in Houston,Texas? I started the first post on these Aluminum replacements and wanted to make VERY sure what we were getting. Now they have been copied all over the place and we are seeing QA issues showing up.
Here is my thread where the manufacturer makes a few posts with some background information. However I will note we are still waiting on the rear water manifold as well as NA versions! Someday I hope!

Aluminum Cooling Pipes

As you might have noticed they started at around $220 or so for the pair and now they are running less than $60 which is great IF the quality is there.
So I am sure Chinese copied parts might have some issues?
Hard to say as I unfortunately paid the $200+ when they first came out. These were nicely made and I have no complaints about fitment.
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On the other hand, if it only cost you an extra $140, and you got good quality, consider it a deal! (The cost of a problem part could be much higher.) Cheers!

 

Certainly I'm aware that A company in Texas has been offering them and they were much more expensive originally. And then dropped substantially in price. I have no idea where they are having them made.

Not trying to insinuate that they do or don't make the parts in China, just a face value comment that we sourced some identical looking parts that we would be able to sell for $60 and found the fitment wasn't fantastic. Probably not enough to be a real problem but if you have a few problems and the parts only make you a couple bucks, it just isn't worth the hassle.

 

Getting back to the original topic it seems that there has only been 1 reported failure of the unwelded new plastic y- pipe so far.

 

The vendor specifically states they are made in Houston,Texas in the thread I started and referenced above.
Yea I guess the extra $140 or so I paid did insure a better quality part so I am glad for that. Just surprised that the price and availability changed so fast?
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Can you please tell me how much effort & time it took to replace these? I want to do mine....

 

I sourced some for $60 on eBay and my indy JLR mechanic liked them so much he bought sets to have in stock. Maybe luck of the draw?