Are you asking about the expansion tank cap or the alu coolant pipes?
Coz the cap is no time or effort at all and I haven't (yet) replaced the coolant pipes.

 

Ken,

I replaced the older style pipes with the newer oem pipes. I have removed the supercharger twice now so you can defiantly do the job. Make sure to download the tech manual provided on this forum. The job from start to finish for me took 8 hours the first time and was cut in half the second time. The main steps are as follows

1, Set up the car (lift and or stands).

2, Pull the fuel fuse, start car and run car until it stalls.

3, disconnect battery (do not close trunk/ or put rag between trunk and lock)

4, Remove air intake piping

5, Remove supercharger belt

6, disconnect high pressure fuel rail

After that it’s just a series of nuts and bolts. The ones behind the super charger can be a real pain because of very little room. I would recommend buying the following items for the job because you will be breaking seals.

Throttle body gasket, upper plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, coolant pump, and coolant.

Lessons learned: Do not drain coolant from the cheap plastic pop out drain plug on the radiator. I did and it leaked when I put the plug back in causing me to have to install a new radiator.

Buy some extra distilled water to flush the valley of the engine (area underneath the super charger) because you may spill some coolant and as you know its highly corrosive. Before you remove any coolant hose recommend pumping out the coolant reservoir.

The most challenging aspects for me was lifting the supercharger out of the engine bay, hose clamps and breaking the coolant hoses loose. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Take your time and once complete you will know the job was done right.

This link with the tech manual is all you need.

*OFF TOPIC! Jaguar F-Type Supercharger Removal, Coolant Pipe Replacement and Supercharger Coupler Replacement – GFP Motorrad (classicairheads.com)

 

For step 2, do NOT do this, it is really hard on the fuel system. Go online and get a bleeding kit that will screw into the schrader valve and bring the pressure down this way. That way your fuel lines will still have fuel in them when you to start the car.

Also, on my XK, my pipe did not split, it warped where it went into the engine.

 

Randyb,
Step two for removing fuel system pressure listed above is taken directly from the F-type JLR tech manual. There may be other methods however, with a fuel system that is pressurized between 2-3k PSI caution should be taken.

Also, once the fuel fuse is reinstalled and battery connected the f-type fuel system will pressurize with the door open and power applied without starting the car.

 

Just so that you are aware, it is not necessary to remove the SC in order to replace the coolant pipes. You can check out several threads here or go specifically to: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...inally-258775/

I posted a video on how my mechanic was able to do it and he has done a good number of them without any issues whatsoever.

 

Coolant is NOT corrosive! Read the container!
With a DI engine there is no Schrader valve anymore. With the massive multi-thousand pound fuel pressure it would not survive.
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Clubairth1,
I would argue that coolant is highly corrosive. Regardless of what the bottle says there are areas in my garage where it actually started to eat through the concrete floor during extended maintenance/various upgrades. There are also pictures on this forum where members had coolant pipe leaks where coolant remained in the valley underneath the super charger and the top of their engine looks like the titanic (severe rust).

Not a chemist by any means but this could be due to temp, mixture with water, or atmospheric interaction. The manufactures have stated once coolant becomes a vapor or starts to breakdown it becomes highly corrosive but that would not explain why it will eat the coating off concrete within a short amount of time.

Personally, I can only comment on what's been experienced and would recommend thoroughly flushing/ cleaning components that have been in contact with coolant.

 

My mechanic drilled a .031 size hole in the top of the coolant tank to relieve any pressure in the system. He said if your not going to track the car or race up mountain roads your ok. That was three years ago and have not needed to add any coolant. He put distilled water in along with the coolant. If you want to seal the hole use a self tapping screw.

 

Am I missing something here? Why would you drill a permanent hole in the coolant tank when the tank already has a pressure relief valve on the cap in order to relieve any excess pressure? The system, as I understand it, requires it to be under pressure in order to work properly. Monkeying with the pressure just seems to me to be an invitation to trouble with little if no benefit that I can see. Please enlighten me.

 

I would not do it, Jag has said a lot of things that they change.

 

I had an xk 2011 and it had DI and a schrader valve. Funny thing, Jag tach said give it an Italian tune up every 3-4 months.

 

My year Jag has plastic coolant lines. I don't want any of those lines to rupture from any pressure. If you race the car don't do it.

 

I was refering to the coolant system.

 

I think that the confusion here relates to not specifying psia vs psig in the Kpa conversions.

 

 

Reviving this thread to see if there's any new data that anyone can report regarding failures of the "new-style" (non-seamed) pipes.


My car is a 2016, however I seem to have the newer-style plastic pipes (or crossover pipe at least, can't see the y-pipe but I can only assume that it's also the new style).
I got a new water pump under CPO warranty about 5 years ago, so I'm guessing that the pipes were replaced then.
I can't find the service bill so I'll have to contact the dealer to see if they have the record (however I do remember the service advisor claiming that coolant loss was "normal" ).
Might also explain all the coolant residue at the back of my supercharger, as well as the damaged radiator plug () that I've yet to deal with.

 

Luc have you seen this thread I made? That radiator drain plug is cheap and easy to get. Just don't try to get it from Jaguar! They only sell the complete radiator with the plug.
But for around $6 you can get one!

Radiator Drain Plug Replacement
Do note hafren's comment about removing the plug too.
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No I did not! Must've used the wrong search terms and/or not been patient enough while sifting through the results (admittedly, 'petcock' isn't a word that springs readily to my mind).

Thanks a lot! You just saved me a wad of cash

 

Your most welcome!
Well I admit it was pure luck that I found it. I messed mine up and it still worked but it's plastic and old. You know that story!
Stumbled across what looked to be the exact same thing and for $6 I took a chance and found it was identical.

Just another common Ford part that will solve a Jaguar problem for cheap!
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Picked up three today - just in case