Anyone had problems with the updated Y pipes, after replacement? Considering going aluminum while my supercharger is off.
Thanks!

 

Absolutely..... if the SC is off it's a perfect time to go aluminum....

 

I agree, while the SC is out, do the Aluminum! IIRC there was a post suggesting careful checking the inside milled surfaces to make sure there weren't any alum shreds/shards, etc clinging to the sides. I had my flanged plastic pipes all replaced under warranty and so did not get the chance to put in the alum, but I did order a set for future possible replacement. The labor end of replacing these pipes is mostly the SC.

I've had the new style plastics in for about a year. However, I live in north central Wisconsin, I don't recall taking the car out on any 98 or above temps. Anytime I drive it, it gets returned to the garage and I pop the hood/bonnet.

 

That is a good idea to check the aluminum tubes prior to install. I flushed out the tubes and inspected prior to giving to the mechnic for install.

 

Regarding the Jaguar OEM revised coolant pipes, photos might help to make clear the difference between the original pipes with flanges and the revised smooth pipes:

The original, flanged top pipe:

another view:



The revised top pipe (AJ813917), not installed - you can see that there are no flanges to fail; there is only smooth pipe:


another view:


And the revised bottom Y pipe (AJ813865), also with no flange, and with perfectly smooth contours:




So the failure area, the flange, has been eliminated on both pipes. But why did the flanged pipes fail? One distinct possibility: the flanges of the pipes were the weakest part; it is possible that the cooling system pressure is higher than the flanged pipes can withstand over the multiple heating/cooling cycles of normal use. The revised pipes simply do not have this failure point. They appear to be very well made and very sturdy (I have not yet had them installed on my car).
But the issue of cooling system pressure is worth exploring. The original pressure cap on my 2015 F-Type was this one: 200 kPa (29 psi) - a specification which is far higher than on any other car I have owned:


When I ordered the new set of pipes from my dealer (along with all the plastic hoses) I also ordered a new pressure cap specified for the V6S engine. This is what I received as the current specification, part number C2P17700; as you can see the pressure rating is much lower (20 psi). Is this new lower specification another element in the “second version” for the cooling system?

The new cap in situ:


If the system pressure contributes to the failure of the flanged pipes, it may be advisable to reduce that pressure to reduce the stress. This 140 kPa (20 psi) cap has been in place on my F-Type (all the engines use the same pressure caps) for more than 2 years. There is no difference at all in the performance of the car or of the climate control.
While the aluminum pipes are by nature better than the plastic pipes, they may not be necessary. The revised OEM pipes are significantly better than the original flanged pipes. The reduction in system pressure is just added protection.

 

All the higher pressure cap does is raise the boiling point of the coolant, so no differences should be noticed.

 

Exactly. But the pressure is higher. In normal use and in temperate climates, is a 200kPa (29 psi) cap necessary? My 1966 Mk2 Jaguar runs on a 4 psi cap without issues, but the car is not used in 40 C weather.

 

Anyone have a part number of this new cap....any issues just buying it and put it on the car right away?

 

The part number of the 140 cap is in my note above. There is much discussion on the BMW E46 Fanatics (sic) list regarding the move from 200 kPa caps to 140.
There are no issues in fitting the lower pressure cap (I thought I made that clear as well).

 

Thanks...missed it. Got it now. Sorry...

 

I seem to remember that these flanged pipes were actually 2 sections, top/bottom for example and were heat tacked/pressed together with the flanges being the 'seams'. All you needed to have happen was the 'tack' to let go for disaster to strike. I can't even find any examples of other such pipes online to show a cross-section. Hopefully the solid/round pipes will last longer.

 

Thanks sov!!
I still have all the original crappy welded seam coolant pipes on my F-Type other than the overflow tank pipe which cracked and I replaced a few years ago, and ever since I have worried about the seemingly excessive pressure on/in the system causing one or more of the other suspect pipes (especially the seamed ones) to crack/split/leak.
With part number in hand for the 140 PSI KPa cap I looked on Fleabay AU and up she popped for less than $30 delivered so I bought one immediately.
The ad says it is for S-Type XK XJ X350 but it is definitely part # C2P17700 so it should work properly, see here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19231079...Bk9SR8ry5-_yYQ
I will report back when it arrives (delivery expected in 8 days) if it fits properly or not.

 

For the KPa-challenged, a 200KPa cap is only ~15psi, which is extremely common, if not a bit on the low side these days. A 140KPa cap drops it to 10.5psi, which is very low... in fact I don't remember ever seeing a 10-psi cap before. It's not a problem if you're in cool country, but if your summers get hot, it may not be a good idea to switch.

 

Every equivalency table I have found translates 200 kPa as 29+ psi…and that is pretty high.

 

Yep, same with the Windows 10 calculator.

 

Oz, it will fit. The fitting tables for these parts are incomplete. The OEM 140 cap (as seen in my photo) is exactly equivalent in fit and form except for the label (and obviously, whatever makes it 140 instead of 200).

 

I believe the thermostat is this one, Jaguar (AJ814048) and in so far as changing the radiator cap to 140kPA I think it may not be a good idea especially for those of us with temperatures well above 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

OK, change of plan as it often gets over 100 F here in summer!
I will fit the new cap when it arrives and run with it through until the start of summer here (1 Dec) then consider switching back to the 200 KPa cap. Whichever way I go I will keep the other cap in with the tools I store in the cubby in the hatch, "just in case".

 

Not obvious to me if this is relative (to ~15psi atmospheric) or absolute pressure. I would expect absolute, if it’s used to calculate boiling point. But relative would be used for how much the pressure is trying to split the pipes. I think.

 

Well, Our X-Types have coolant caps are rated at 100 kPa (just checked) which is 14.5 psi. No matter what the temperature is, even in the 38+ C. degree territory (it rarely gets hotter than that here), never a hint of overheating in those systems.

This tells me that a cap of 140 kPa on the F-Type should be, and in my experience in using it for the last two years IS, perfectly acceptable and safe. And the fact that the 140 cap is what was supplied to me by my dealer (along with the new versions of the other parts of the cooling system) as the now-correct cap for my F-Type suggests that, just perhaps, the issue of the seamed pipes leaking under 200 kPa pressure has made Jaguar rethink the matter. Whether this is a Jaguar Canada decision or not, I cannot say.

Those who track their cars or use them aggressively in 40+ degree conditions may not want a lower pressure cap. But common sense tells us that using a ZERO pressure cap is the safest for the vulnerable components (hoses, pipes, tubes, …).
That isn’t going to happen (unless you use the waterless coolant); but the lower the pressure, the more long-lived the components. So, a reduction from 200 to 140, is definitely better, no?