Failure Rate of "New Style" Coolant Y Pipe.
#61
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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#62
Ken,
I replaced the older style pipes with the newer oem pipes. I have removed the supercharger twice now so you can defiantly do the job. Make sure to download the tech manual provided on this forum. The job from start to finish for me took 8 hours the first time and was cut in half the second time. The main steps are as follows
1, Set up the car (lift and or stands).
2, Pull the fuel fuse, start car and run car until it stalls.
3, disconnect battery (do not close trunk/ or put rag between trunk and lock)
4, Remove air intake piping
5, Remove supercharger belt
6, disconnect high pressure fuel rail
After that it’s just a series of nuts and bolts. The ones behind the super charger can be a real pain because of very little room. I would recommend buying the following items for the job because you will be breaking seals.
Throttle body gasket, upper plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, coolant pump, and coolant.
Lessons learned: Do not drain coolant from the cheap plastic pop out drain plug on the radiator. I did and it leaked when I put the plug back in causing me to have to install a new radiator.
Buy some extra distilled water to flush the valley of the engine (area underneath the super charger) because you may spill some coolant and as you know its highly corrosive. Before you remove any coolant hose recommend pumping out the coolant reservoir.
The most challenging aspects for me was lifting the supercharger out of the engine bay, hose clamps and breaking the coolant hoses loose. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Take your time and once complete you will know the job was done right.
This link with the tech manual is all you need.
*OFF TOPIC! Jaguar F-Type Supercharger Removal, Coolant Pipe Replacement and Supercharger Coupler Replacement – GFP Motorrad (classicairheads.com)
I replaced the older style pipes with the newer oem pipes. I have removed the supercharger twice now so you can defiantly do the job. Make sure to download the tech manual provided on this forum. The job from start to finish for me took 8 hours the first time and was cut in half the second time. The main steps are as follows
1, Set up the car (lift and or stands).
2, Pull the fuel fuse, start car and run car until it stalls.
3, disconnect battery (do not close trunk/ or put rag between trunk and lock)
4, Remove air intake piping
5, Remove supercharger belt
6, disconnect high pressure fuel rail
After that it’s just a series of nuts and bolts. The ones behind the super charger can be a real pain because of very little room. I would recommend buying the following items for the job because you will be breaking seals.
Throttle body gasket, upper plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, coolant pump, and coolant.
Lessons learned: Do not drain coolant from the cheap plastic pop out drain plug on the radiator. I did and it leaked when I put the plug back in causing me to have to install a new radiator.
Buy some extra distilled water to flush the valley of the engine (area underneath the super charger) because you may spill some coolant and as you know its highly corrosive. Before you remove any coolant hose recommend pumping out the coolant reservoir.
The most challenging aspects for me was lifting the supercharger out of the engine bay, hose clamps and breaking the coolant hoses loose. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Take your time and once complete you will know the job was done right.
This link with the tech manual is all you need.
*OFF TOPIC! Jaguar F-Type Supercharger Removal, Coolant Pipe Replacement and Supercharger Coupler Replacement – GFP Motorrad (classicairheads.com)
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CTJackster (06-16-2023)
#63
Ken,
I replaced the older style pipes with the newer oem pipes. I have removed the supercharger twice now so you can defiantly do the job. Make sure to download the tech manual provided on this forum. The job from start to finish for me took 8 hours the first time and was cut in half the second time. The main steps are as follows
1, Set up the car (lift and or stands).
2, Pull the fuel fuse, start car and run car until it stalls.
3, disconnect battery (do not close trunk/ or put rag between trunk and lock)
4, Remove air intake piping
5, Remove supercharger belt
6, disconnect high pressure fuel rail
After that it’s just a series of nuts and bolts. The ones behind the super charger can be a real pain because of very little room. I would recommend buying the following items for the job because you will be breaking seals.
Throttle body gasket, upper plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, coolant pump, and coolant.
Lessons learned: Do not drain coolant from the cheap plastic pop out drain plug on the radiator. I did and it leaked when I put the plug back in causing me to have to install a new radiator.
Buy some extra distilled water to flush the valley of the engine (area underneath the super charger) because you may spill some coolant and as you know its highly corrosive. Before you remove any coolant hose recommend pumping out the coolant reservoir.
The most challenging aspects for me was lifting the supercharger out of the engine bay, hose clamps and breaking the coolant hoses loose. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Take your time and once complete you will know the job was done right.
This link with the tech manual is all you need.
*OFF TOPIC! Jaguar F-Type Supercharger Removal, Coolant Pipe Replacement and Supercharger Coupler Replacement – GFP Motorrad (classicairheads.com)
I replaced the older style pipes with the newer oem pipes. I have removed the supercharger twice now so you can defiantly do the job. Make sure to download the tech manual provided on this forum. The job from start to finish for me took 8 hours the first time and was cut in half the second time. The main steps are as follows
1, Set up the car (lift and or stands).
2, Pull the fuel fuse, start car and run car until it stalls.
3, disconnect battery (do not close trunk/ or put rag between trunk and lock)
4, Remove air intake piping
5, Remove supercharger belt
6, disconnect high pressure fuel rail
After that it’s just a series of nuts and bolts. The ones behind the super charger can be a real pain because of very little room. I would recommend buying the following items for the job because you will be breaking seals.
Throttle body gasket, upper plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, coolant pump, and coolant.
Lessons learned: Do not drain coolant from the cheap plastic pop out drain plug on the radiator. I did and it leaked when I put the plug back in causing me to have to install a new radiator.
Buy some extra distilled water to flush the valley of the engine (area underneath the super charger) because you may spill some coolant and as you know its highly corrosive. Before you remove any coolant hose recommend pumping out the coolant reservoir.
The most challenging aspects for me was lifting the supercharger out of the engine bay, hose clamps and breaking the coolant hoses loose. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Take your time and once complete you will know the job was done right.
This link with the tech manual is all you need.
*OFF TOPIC! Jaguar F-Type Supercharger Removal, Coolant Pipe Replacement and Supercharger Coupler Replacement – GFP Motorrad (classicairheads.com)
Also, on my XK, my pipe did not split, it warped where it went into the engine.
Last edited by randyb; 06-03-2023 at 09:03 PM.
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KimboSlice (06-05-2023)
#64
Randyb,
Step two for removing fuel system pressure listed above is taken directly from the F-type JLR tech manual. There may be other methods however, with a fuel system that is pressurized between 2-3k PSI caution should be taken.
Also, once the fuel fuse is reinstalled and battery connected the f-type fuel system will pressurize with the door open and power applied without starting the car.
Step two for removing fuel system pressure listed above is taken directly from the F-type JLR tech manual. There may be other methods however, with a fuel system that is pressurized between 2-3k PSI caution should be taken.
Also, once the fuel fuse is reinstalled and battery connected the f-type fuel system will pressurize with the door open and power applied without starting the car.
#65
Just so that you are aware, it is not necessary to remove the SC in order to replace the coolant pipes. You can check out several threads here or go specifically to: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...inally-258775/
I posted a video on how my mechanic was able to do it and he has done a good number of them without any issues whatsoever.
I posted a video on how my mechanic was able to do it and he has done a good number of them without any issues whatsoever.
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Ken Dreger (06-04-2023)
#66
#67
Clubairth1,
I would argue that coolant is highly corrosive. Regardless of what the bottle says there are areas in my garage where it actually started to eat through the concrete floor during extended maintenance/various upgrades. There are also pictures on this forum where members had coolant pipe leaks where coolant remained in the valley underneath the super charger and the top of their engine looks like the titanic (severe rust).
Not a chemist by any means but this could be due to temp, mixture with water, or atmospheric interaction. The manufactures have stated once coolant becomes a vapor or starts to breakdown it becomes highly corrosive but that would not explain why it will eat the coating off concrete within a short amount of time.
Personally, I can only comment on what's been experienced and would recommend thoroughly flushing/ cleaning components that have been in contact with coolant.
I would argue that coolant is highly corrosive. Regardless of what the bottle says there are areas in my garage where it actually started to eat through the concrete floor during extended maintenance/various upgrades. There are also pictures on this forum where members had coolant pipe leaks where coolant remained in the valley underneath the super charger and the top of their engine looks like the titanic (severe rust).
Not a chemist by any means but this could be due to temp, mixture with water, or atmospheric interaction. The manufactures have stated once coolant becomes a vapor or starts to breakdown it becomes highly corrosive but that would not explain why it will eat the coating off concrete within a short amount of time.
Personally, I can only comment on what's been experienced and would recommend thoroughly flushing/ cleaning components that have been in contact with coolant.
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Ken Dreger (06-04-2023)
#68
My mechanic drilled a .031 size hole in the top of the coolant tank to relieve any pressure in the system. He said if your not going to track the car or race up mountain roads your ok. That was three years ago and have not needed to add any coolant. He put distilled water in along with the coolant. If you want to seal the hole use a self tapping screw.
#69
Am I missing something here? Why would you drill a permanent hole in the coolant tank when the tank already has a pressure relief valve on the cap in order to relieve any excess pressure? The system, as I understand it, requires it to be under pressure in order to work properly. Monkeying with the pressure just seems to me to be an invitation to trouble with little if no benefit that I can see. Please enlighten me.
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Supersprint Sport Exhausts (06-04-2023)
#70
Randyb,
Step two for removing fuel system pressure listed above is taken directly from the F-type JLR tech manual. There may be other methods however, with a fuel system that is pressurized between 2-3k PSI caution should be taken.
Also, once the fuel fuse is reinstalled and battery connected the f-type fuel system will pressurize with the door open and power applied without starting the car.
Step two for removing fuel system pressure listed above is taken directly from the F-type JLR tech manual. There may be other methods however, with a fuel system that is pressurized between 2-3k PSI caution should be taken.
Also, once the fuel fuse is reinstalled and battery connected the f-type fuel system will pressurize with the door open and power applied without starting the car.
#71
I had an xk 2011 and it had DI and a schrader valve. Funny thing, Jag tach said give it an Italian tune up every 3-4 months.
#72
#73
#74
For the KPa-challenged, a 200KPa cap is only ~15psi, which is extremely common, if not a bit on the low side these days. A 140KPa cap drops it to 10.5psi, which is very low... in fact I don't remember ever seeing a 10-psi cap before. It's not a problem if you're in cool country, but if your summers get hot, it may not be a good idea to switch.
Last edited by mecheng1; 07-25-2023 at 07:32 AM.
#75
21 lb cap.
I pulled the cap off my 2017 f250 diesel Ford and the cap was identical to my factory jag cap but it's 145kpa (21psi) and is made by Ford just like my original 2014 f type cap. I ordered one from ebay part number HC3Z-8100-B. Nice part is $25 and original FoMoCo !
Last edited by xuout1; 08-09-2023 at 09:23 PM.
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