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This upper coolant pipe split (Part #C2Z28534) and the mechanic wants to charge 5 hours. I think he wants to change the water pump (for no reason).
Looks to me like it's some hose clamps and torque bolts.
Do I have to move a bunch of stuff to replace it?
Am I missing something????
I have a 2014 XF 3.0 Flex Fuel ... do I have a supercharger???
Anyway, the mechanic says to go with the new style pipes I have to change both because the fittings are different ... again, does this make sense?
Anyway, I can find the old version (it's a Land Rover part) then I can just swap out the upper pipe and keep my fingers crossed that the lower one doesn't split.
I'm planning on getting a new car in less than a year. so don't want to spend money on my Jag if I don't need to.
I have a 2014 XF 3.0 Flex Fuel ... do I have a supercharger???
Anyway, the mechanic says to go with the new style pipes I have to change both because the fittings are different ... again, does this make sense?
As I have already mentioned above and also in the document. Yes, it does make sense.
Anyway, I can find the old version (it's a Land Rover part) then I can just swap out the upper pipe and keep my fingers crossed that the lower one doesn't split.
That will not work.
I'm planning on getting a new car in less than a year. so don't want to spend money on my Jag if I don't need to.
You need to, or potentially face a bigger bill in the future.
if one part has began to fail (plastic) the others are not far behind. Short-term cost prevention not likely to make the most sense here. Your mechanic sounds like he is making sense, and mojo is right too
As you can imagine, these are NOT the answers I want to hear ... BUT ... will take everyone's advice.
Last questions:
1. Why won't the Land Rover part work? The actual part on my Jag says both Jaguar and Land Rover?
2. Should I have them replace the water pump also or just the pipes?
That pipe was originally aluminum on the 5.0, I think it is the same, I would you get a used one, fit and forget.
Yes, it was alloy on the early 5.0 and updated to the plastic version with a seam in 2012.
But again that won't work, the newer plastic part is not compatible with the older alloy part, as you can see the alloy part is only "part" of that updated pipe.
And tapau, if you have a 2014 XF 3.0 petrol and you are Stateside then it can only be the AJ126 V6 which by definition is supercharged, and shares almost all of those coolant pipes and tubes with the AJ133 5.0 V8 supercharged.
In your pic you can see the the top of the SC drive belt (sitting on the SC pulley) just below and to the left of the word "Jaguar" on the coolant pipe in question.
The technical bulleting says the 2 bolts should be 10nm, which is 88.51 in-lbs. Does that sound right to you guys, I was able to use an T-30 allen wrench to get them off. There's no way I would have been able to do it by had if it was tightened at 10nm.
Thanks again. The pipe is in place, just need to get these bolt on right.
The technical bulleting says the 2 bolts should be 10nm, which is 88.51 in-lbs. Does that sound right to you guys, I was able to use an T-30 allen wrench to get them off. There's no way I would have been able to do it by had if it was tightened at 10nm.
Thanks again. The pipe is in place, just need to get these bolt on right.
You have the old part that will fail. That's what everyone is trying to tell you. Those big fat square seams are the problem. You need to install the current smooth seam pipes. Everywhere!
Here is what to look for;
Yes the old style part you have will bolt up but it is a known failure item and has been updated by Jaguar.
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The technical bulleting says the 2 bolts should be 10nm, which is 88.51 in-lbs. Does that sound right to you guys, I was able to use an T-30 allen wrench to get them off. There's no way I would have been able to do it by had if it was tightened at 10nm.
Thanks again. The pipe is in place, just need to get these bolt on right.
Just tightened them for God's sake. You don't need to torque every nut and bolt. They are torx not allen. And the pipe will work just fine.
Last edited by kansanbrit; Dec 9, 2021 at 09:00 AM.
Finished changing out the upper pipe, no coolant leak drove it around and everything seemed fine, but now something isn't right and now I'm getting the check engine light OCR Error Codes P2187 - System Too Lean at Idle and P2189 - System Too Lean at Idle..
So FYI, we also ended up having to replace this tube, Part # C2Z14540.
It connects from the coolant reservoir to the upper pipe (the one we replaced) and then the other branch goes to the grey piece in the picture
I'm normally really careful before removing anything so that I can replace it exactly the way it was ... unfortunately, my hubby removed this tube and doesn't remember.
Here are the pictures, is this grey piece supposed to be connected to anything???? I think my husband pulled it out of somewhere an now it's just hanging there.
Finished changing out the upper pipe, no coolant leak drove it around and everything seemed fine, but now something isn't right and now I'm getting the check engine light OCR Error Codes P2187 - System Too Lean at Idle and P2189 - System Too Lean at Idle..
So FYI, we also ended up having to replace this tube, Part # C2Z14540.
It connects from the coolant reservoir to the upper pipe (the one we replaced) and then the other branch goes to the grey piece in the picture
I'm normally really careful before removing anything so that I can replace it exactly the way it was ... unfortunately, my hubby removed this tube and doesn't remember.
Here are the pictures, is this grey piece supposed to be connected to anything???? I think my husband pulled it out of somewhere an now it's just hanging there.
No that grey piece is normal and doesn't connect to anything, many others have asked the some question before.
I also replaced that coolant reservoir pipe on my F-Type, so far it has been the only coolant pipe failure, but of course I have now jinxed myself!
Good job you replaced it as it will nearly always eventually go brittle with age at one or both of those two small ends and crack or split.
I forgot to add, DTCs P2187 and P2189 are both "system too lean at idle", it's just that one is Bank 1 and the other is Bank 2 so both banks at once.
Lots of possible causes but given the fiddling around with the upper coolant pipe my money is on a vacuum leak, so I suggest you check all intake system hoses, tubes and pipes are fully seated and clamped.
Upper Coolant Pipe
