First Oil Change
#1
First Oil Change
I'm 12 months in on my new to me CPO 2015 F-Type 340hp Convertible so it is time for my first oil change. I've got a reputable independent Jaguar shop I'm taking it to for an oil change as the dealer quoted me $260 while the independent $140. I don't see the $120 value add by taking it to the dealer.
Anyway, the independent shop uses Valvoline but recognized Castrol as OEM. So long as the weight of the oil is the same (0W-20), would there be any issues using Valvoline over Castrol? The independent shop said if I wanted to use Castrol, I could bring it in and they would use it instead of the Valvoline. Just curious if there are benfits to the Castol over the Valovoline and if there would be any warranty issues in not using the OEM oil. BTW, if I do decide to BYOO (Bring Your Own Oil) I assume I should get 8 quarts of 0W-20 Castrol Edge. Correct?
Anyway, the independent shop uses Valvoline but recognized Castrol as OEM. So long as the weight of the oil is the same (0W-20), would there be any issues using Valvoline over Castrol? The independent shop said if I wanted to use Castrol, I could bring it in and they would use it instead of the Valvoline. Just curious if there are benfits to the Castol over the Valovoline and if there would be any warranty issues in not using the OEM oil. BTW, if I do decide to BYOO (Bring Your Own Oil) I assume I should get 8 quarts of 0W-20 Castrol Edge. Correct?
#2
F-type requires specific oil additives/spec, if you use different spec oil of the same weight it would not immediately destroy your engine but it will reduce longevity of your engine. If you run oil too long (i.e. 12+ mo) it will reduce longevity of your engine.
My advice: Use spec oil, change your oil and filter more frequently.
My advice: Use spec oil, change your oil and filter more frequently.
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George05 (10-10-2019)
#3
Thanks. I think I'll go with the Castrol.
Factory oil change frequency is 12 months or 15K miles. I've always changed the oil in my cars the traditional 3K-3.5K miles. The dealership service department assured me the recommended intervals are safe. Should I adjust from the recommended interval? FWIW, I've got less than 6K miles on the car since I took delivery a year ago.
Factory oil change frequency is 12 months or 15K miles. I've always changed the oil in my cars the traditional 3K-3.5K miles. The dealership service department assured me the recommended intervals are safe. Should I adjust from the recommended interval? FWIW, I've got less than 6K miles on the car since I took delivery a year ago.
#4
Thanks. I think I'll go with the Castrol.
Factory oil change frequency is 12 months or 15K miles. I've always changed the oil in my cars the traditional 3K-3.5K miles. The dealership service department assured me the recommended intervals are safe. Should I adjust from the recommended interval? FWIW, I've got less than 6K miles on the car since I took delivery a year ago.
Factory oil change frequency is 12 months or 15K miles. I've always changed the oil in my cars the traditional 3K-3.5K miles. The dealership service department assured me the recommended intervals are safe. Should I adjust from the recommended interval? FWIW, I've got less than 6K miles on the car since I took delivery a year ago.
#5
I stick to 6 months and 7.5k miles interval for synthetic oil. Bring that down 5k miles if you really beat on your car a lot. Also just a reminder since you have a CPO, Jaguar puts a dye in their oil which can only be sourced from the dealer. So if you have a situation where your engine goes kaput and they check the oil, they might deny your warranty claim. That to me is worth the price difference of servicing at a certified dealer.
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Luc Lapierre (12-16-2019)
#6
Factory oil change frequency is 12 months or 15K miles. I've always changed the oil in my cars the traditional 3K-3.5K miles. The dealership service department assured me the recommended intervals are safe. Should I adjust from the recommended interval? FWIW, I've got less than 6K miles on the car since I took delivery a year ago.
F-type engine has variable timing that is largely controlled by oil pressure, any sludge would create serious drivability issues. Additionally, DI (direct injected) engine hard on timing chain, so more frequent oil changes would save you (or next owner) an expense of getting timing chain done at around 100K miles.
I have a number of classic cars, a lot of annoying issues can often be traced to lack of maintenance early in the car's life. If you like your car and don't want to see it in a junk yard at around ~15 year mark, then take care of it now.
#7
How frequently you need to change your oil largely depends on how you drive it. Long highway drives and all around gentle driving use case would support recommended interval. If you drive your F-type like it was intended in a spirited way, then you ought to change your oil more frequently.
F-type engine has variable timing that is largely controlled by oil pressure, any sludge would create serious drivability issues. Additionally, DI (direct injected) engine hard on timing chain, so more frequent oil changes would save you (or next owner) an expense of getting timing chain done at around 100K miles.
I have a number of classic cars, a lot of annoying issues can often be traced to lack of maintenance early in the car's life. If you like your car and don't want to see it in a junk yard at around ~15 year mark, then take care of it now.
F-type engine has variable timing that is largely controlled by oil pressure, any sludge would create serious drivability issues. Additionally, DI (direct injected) engine hard on timing chain, so more frequent oil changes would save you (or next owner) an expense of getting timing chain done at around 100K miles.
I have a number of classic cars, a lot of annoying issues can often be traced to lack of maintenance early in the car's life. If you like your car and don't want to see it in a junk yard at around ~15 year mark, then take care of it now.
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#8
I just did my first oil change on my 340 V6. I used this https://www.fcpeuro.com. It took 7L of oil. After reading all the overfill posts, I put in 7L and checked the oil. It stated it was right at the full mark, after running the car around the block and waiting till the next day to check.
I drained the oil the old fashioned way by draining from under the car. Good thing I did, as there was a small oil leak at the drain plug. my guess whoever changed the oil last (Dealer for CPO?) did not put in a new drain plug. The drain plug seals with a rubber gasket, so it needs to be replaced with a new one each time it is removed.
If you have a Indy shop you trust it is well worth 200 bucks to have them do it. I did it myself as the air filters had to be changed also. (That is another long story.) The dealer wanted 700 to do the oil change and filters.
I also changed the cabin filter. Now that is a tough job.
I drained the oil the old fashioned way by draining from under the car. Good thing I did, as there was a small oil leak at the drain plug. my guess whoever changed the oil last (Dealer for CPO?) did not put in a new drain plug. The drain plug seals with a rubber gasket, so it needs to be replaced with a new one each time it is removed.
If you have a Indy shop you trust it is well worth 200 bucks to have them do it. I did it myself as the air filters had to be changed also. (That is another long story.) The dealer wanted 700 to do the oil change and filters.
I also changed the cabin filter. Now that is a tough job.
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rexus31 (06-11-2019)
#9
I drained the oil the old fashioned way by draining from under the car. Good thing I did, as there was a small oil leak at the drain plug. my guess whoever changed the oil last (Dealer for CPO?) did not put in a new drain plug. The drain plug seals with a rubber gasket, so it needs to be replaced with a new one each time it is removed.
#10
I just spoke to the indy shop I would use for the oil change. They will charge $95 for the labor if I supply my own oil and filer. So with the oil, filter and labor, it would be $190. The $50 really isn't worth the hassle to me so I guess I'll just take it to JLR Pasadena and have them do the work for the quoted $240. Thanks for all the replies!
#12
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Pretty sure the overfill has been on AWD versions, both V6 and V8.
The AWD has a smaller sump capacity than the RWD (6.75 litres vs 7.25 litres IIRC) and the sump on both the V6 and V8 AWD is identical.
It's just that in North America since 2015 the V8 was AWD only while the V6 still offers the choice of RWD, which means more V8 AWDs than V6 AWDs so most reported overfill problems in North America are on V8s. Well that's my theory anyway!
The AWD has a smaller sump capacity than the RWD (6.75 litres vs 7.25 litres IIRC) and the sump on both the V6 and V8 AWD is identical.
It's just that in North America since 2015 the V8 was AWD only while the V6 still offers the choice of RWD, which means more V8 AWDs than V6 AWDs so most reported overfill problems in North America are on V8s. Well that's my theory anyway!
#13
My queen gets the full Castrol oil change pre-winter every year even if she only has seen a thousand miles of driving. Ridiculous I know, but something I enjoy doing myself and might be of value to a buyer down the road. Figure it was a $107k car new, probably $60k now, what is the cost of some oil and DYI? No big deal. We blow tens of thousands on depreciation who should really care if oil costs $75 bucks.
#14
Nope, My 2018 V6 was overfilled by the dealer at my first service but due to the alerts posted on this forum I checked the level before heading home and went back to the dealer to have them extract a half quart. Inasmuch as I live 2 hrs. from the dealer it saved me considerable time and mileage.
#15
#16
Do it yourself it takes 3 mins with a Mityvac pump. A pump is $75 on Amazon. You can change the filter in the 3 mins it takes to pump the oil.
A pump makes it impossible to overfill because it sucks the oil into its own marked tank, so you refill with exactly the amount you removed.
I change mine every 1K to 2K because it is easy, Costs the same as a tank of gas, and with a pump there is no wear and tear on the drain plug that can cause leaks or big repair bills if a tech strips the aluumineeenum. And they will.
If you don't use a pump, definitely replace your drain plug to a magnetic plug while the threads are on the new side. That way you won't have to worry about someone stripping it. And they will.
A pump makes it impossible to overfill because it sucks the oil into its own marked tank, so you refill with exactly the amount you removed.
I change mine every 1K to 2K because it is easy, Costs the same as a tank of gas, and with a pump there is no wear and tear on the drain plug that can cause leaks or big repair bills if a tech strips the aluumineeenum. And they will.
If you don't use a pump, definitely replace your drain plug to a magnetic plug while the threads are on the new side. That way you won't have to worry about someone stripping it. And they will.
Last edited by RacerX; 09-28-2019 at 08:03 PM.
#17
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Literally dozens of different brands and sellers of the same filter, I usually get whichever good quality one is going cheapest at Rock Auto or on Fleabay.
By quality brands I include Mann, Mahle, Wix and AC Delco.
See this Rock Auto page for example (2017 F-Type V6): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...il+filter,5340
#19
I believe this is the kit I got - has an extra quart of oil, but a good deal. Double-check, pretty sure this is the right one.
https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/OCK...CABEgKB2PD_BwE
https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/OCK...CABEgKB2PD_BwE
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Unhingd (09-28-2019)
#20
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