This is how far the key needs to be inserted. The handle has to be almost straight out.


The keyhole for manually locking the car is behind this plug:

 

Ok thanks! I am guessing were as both of my keys will not turn the lock set. They are not correct for the car. Does your turn easily?

 

About a year ago (pre-COVID) I paid ~$100 USD for the extra key, got it in about two weeks.



Unhingd 's pictures reminded me that it is good to put a bit of tape on the bodywork, under the outer door handle, when working on/lubricating the key lock. Human beings naturally want to move the 'handle' downward for more leverage, If you do, you could scratch the paint.

 

True...you gotta be careful. I like the tape idea.

 

Unhinged, it looks as if the red cable you suggest feeds into the under-hood charging "box". Is that correct? If so, I could unbolt the box and there may be enough play in the cable so that I could access it to strip the insulation. That would avoid removing the wheel well liner. But I want to be sure we are talking about the same cable.

 

I'm SOOO STUPID



Was removing our weak aux battery. Got as far as removing the earth connection and the two large battery connections on the red cables. I isolated them to assure that they didn't touch each o0ther.





Then I was told "Bring the garbage cans up" so I shut the trunk lid.

+++++++++++++

The F-type is dead as a doornail. Attaching a jumper box in the engine compartment brought no joy!
Next thing is to try and apply trunk latch power via the red cable in the RF wheel well.

Will that work???

 

If you mean the jump point under the hood, I’d guess it would probably work. Probably depends on which ground you removed.

 

Guess again. The underhood jump point was my first try (with a jumper box from the wife's car)

Found this in Valerie's referred Topic, that will be my next try.



https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2387247

 

To clarify, I had removed the ground from the aux battery, AND the two 12V large red wires where the arrow in my picture is.

 

Who designed the F-Type vert??????? GRRR

Couldn't release the black cover because it is under the edge of the access hole.

The black cover needs to pivot up to the right.

The 10mm nuts holding the fuse panel are indicated by arrows. But the panel will not move to the right enough to release the indicated cover.


I used my formidable arsenal of wobble extensions and magnetic hut drivers to release the two nuts securing the fuse holder. <<SIGH>>

 

I jumped my car using front terminals.

 

The jump box may need some voltage present to operate, like a battery maintainer. Are you sure it powered up?

 

I'll put it this way:

NOTHING powered up with the jump pack connected. Not the interior lights or the infamous HAZARD triangle.

Having those two red primary wires disconnected has removed all power from the car.

Now its raining so it's a job for tomorrow. Or, for a SawZ-All.

 

Something is not adding up. I also recently (shamefully) closed my trunk with my battery disconnected. I took a jump starting device to the hood area and used the positive terminal and the ground connection supplied there, i immediately got power to the car. unless whatever you've messed with disconnects whatever wiring is running from the front terminals..perhaps eliminate this with a 2nd jump device?

 

That is my theory. But the connections are in the trunk (boot)

 

As I recall, you can power the solenoid directly from a wiring harness connector in the left footwell area. I remember a thread that told which wire it was.

 

I think that’s what CarBuff is talking about in post #30.

 

From a quick check of docs I've collected here, I think that 12V applied to to C3BP01FR-6 will activate the latch release. Black wire, connector in Area "C" passenger footwell. Proceed with appropriate caution.

 

Thanks for the above advice, but I've previously applied all that information above.


The immediate issue is that I cannot access the connector under the passenger footwell because the fuse panel cannot be moved far enough to the right to flip up the black cover. I have removed the 10mm nuts on the right, but the panel cannot be moved to the right enough to release the left-hand 'pins'.

If there is an alternate method or way to un-cover it, I would be most appreciative.


+++++++++++

I've looked briefly to see if that surrounding floorboard panel can be removed or moved. Don't see any fasteners under the carpet..

And just to reiterate, the two big red lines in Post 26 are off of their connections.

 

Directions on removing the Central Junction Box start on p. 5604 of the Workshop Manual. It implies the carpet just pulls up from the top. (I hate these vague diagrams with no text.)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o6d1x...=s3fmjz73&dl=0