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Hey guys I am experiencing this same gear box fault, I bought a new battery but the issue still comes up sometimes. When I use a scanner to check the issue, the constant culprit along all the module reads as per the attached video and pictures.
please note that I am in Africa and have limited tech support so I pretty much have to DIY and order parts from the USA.
help here please This is the error message that comes up across the PCM, TCM ABS module
This error comes up across the PCM, TCM and ABS modules
2017 Jaguar F type V6s, it has 40,000 miles.
And when I tried searching the error codes of the internet, nothing helpful came up.
so the error on the odometer »gear box fault » only comes up when I try to drive the car the next day. But once I leave it for a while all is well then I can drive, until it happens again.
Hey guys I am experiencing this same gear box fault, I bought a new battery but the issue still comes up sometimes. When I use a scanner to check the issue, the constant culprit along all the module reads as per the attached video and pictures.
please note that I am in Africa and have limited tech support so I pretty much have to DIY and order parts from the USA.
help here please This is the error message that comes up across the PCM, TCM ABS module
This error comes up across the PCM, TCM and ABS modules
2017 Jaguar F type V6s, it has 40,000 miles.
And when I tried searching the error codes of the internet, nothing helpful came up.
so the error on the odometer »gear box fault » only comes up when I try to drive the car the next day. But once I leave it for a while all is well then I can drive, until it happens again.
Make sure the battery is fully charged, for starters. It's new, but charge it up anyway. If there's no obvious damage, physical, water, foreign objects etc., start checking the ground points. There's a post somewhere with the areas. Check them anyway. I cleared a catalyst code yesterday on mine. I pulled the obd diag. device and disconnected the ground from the battery, and lo and behold the cable connector was not as tight as it should have been, and I was the last one on it. It's worth a shot.
Make sure the battery is fully charged, for starters. It's new, but charge it up anyway. If there's no obvious damage, physical, water, foreign objects etc., start checking the ground points. There's a post somewhere with the areas. Check them anyway. I cleared a catalyst code yesterday on mine. I pulled the obd diag. device and disconnected the ground from the battery, and lo and behold the cable connector was not as tight as it should have been, and I was the last one on it. It's worth a shot.
Hello there, Thanks for your response. So I have done as instructed and below are the results.
Battery voltage with ignition on: 12.55v During Crank Battery goes down to: 11.41V After crank on full load: 14.10v After crank without load: 14.20v
In addition we checked all the ground points and cleaned some and also checked for wire breach around the ÉCU but didn’t detect any.
I will have to leave the car un used after todays drive till tomorrow evening and crank again to be sure the error doesn’t come up.
I have also been told that I should charge my battery over night with a trickle charger and possibly boost the voltage up to 12.8v, so I am doing that tonight.
@steiner, just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's in fully charged condition. As batteries sit on the shelf at a parts house, they can lose charge.
With the ignition in the OFF position, there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts available across the terminals when checked with a voltmeter. If not, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the battery is still showing less than 12.6 volts on the voltmeter, the battery is suspect.
Prior to doing any further diagnosis, the correct voltage must be available as low voltage can cause random DTCs and instrument cluster warnings to occur.
@steiner, just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's in fully charged condition. As batteries sit on the shelf at a parts house, they can lose charge.
With the ignition in the OFF position, there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts available across the terminals when checked with a voltmeter. If not, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the battery is still showing less than 12.6 volts on the voltmeter, the battery is suspect.
Prior to doing any further diagnosis, the correct voltage must be available as low voltage can cause random DTCs and instrument cluster warnings to occur.
thanks for your reply. I have fully charged the battery and now have 12.8volts on the volts meter.
I haven’t seen the error msg for a while now but to be on the safe side I went searching for corrosion earthing points and came across one.
does anyone have an idea other placed i can check? The one mentioned above is located at the back of the right hand side tyre. You have to take off the tyres.looks like a power connection point.
Funny, I discovered what I assume is one just yesterday, when a bag with Velcro pulled off a cover in the trunk. This is the left side, in a ‘14 convertible.
Yeah, just got back from a road trip, it needs vacuuming…
Gear box fault
