The sensor is clearly visible. Anything past that will be OK.
I had not seen the PDF in post #37 and that prompted me to get a socket for mine so there's not a pigtail hanging out anywhere. It's the CTEK "Comfort Indicator" and it has LEDs in a traffic light configuration to monitor voltage. That and the 2.5m extension should work well for me. I've got the interior of the cargo compartment stripped right now chasing a water leak but will install that when I put it all back together. Still deciding on placement, but leaning towards something similar to that PDF. Things are a little different in the coupe so I'm still deciding.

 

CTEK actually offers a panel-fit socket that you can carve into a side panel for convenience if you don't want a dangling socket lead. This one is bundled with a mounting bracket for the charger, but it may be available separately ....

 

To keep things tidy and for easy access I drilled a 1" hole in trunk/boot cover close to battery terminals, then fed the charging cable through a one inch silicon grommet from Amazon ($7). Just remember to pull grommet and push cable through before removing the cover!
2019 Convertible.

 

I found just the mounting panel with pigtail leads on eBay at https://ebay.us/m/yDZQlu

 

It is. That's what I've got in hand. There are three different eyelet sizes available, and possibly different cable lengths. Mine is M8, 1.5m. Mounting location remains undecided, but I'm leaning towards the rearmost inner panel, just left of the latch, very much like that PDF. I need to measure for depth before I cut anything

 

That's half what I paid. If you're interested, I'd grab one. It shows as NOS, so it may have been part of one of the dealership bundles for delivering cars as "CTEK Ready" that didn't get used.

 

question. under the jump box in front, when you remove the cover there's a tray with 2 relays, does that just lift out, or are there some attachements that I didn't see? I didn't want to pry or remove something I shouldn't

 

I had the same question. Have not gotten around doing this but wanted to also learn how to remove it. I was going to use a NOCO pigtail since that is what I use on the rest of my vehicles.

 

One thing that I've realized since doing this guide is that details like this do make for a more useful set of instructions. In guides I've done for other things since this I've made no assumptions, and I've taken the time to detail even the small things to make it as useful as possible.

Unfortunately in THIS case I failed to provide these details you are looking for. As I said in my spiel, all I can remember at this point is that there were 2 screws and 3 clips that needed to be dealt with in order to gain the access needed to feed the positive wire in. I didn't even bother consult the shop manual, as it didn't seem like it would be a big deal to me at the time. With a small bit of bravery, and going slow, my memory is that it became very evident what was involved once I got into it. There's not much that can be screwed up there to be honest.

I will make this commitment: If I ever need to go in there again (replace the wiring for any reason, whatever) I will be sure to update this guide with absolute clarity.

If you guys end up beating me to it, I would invite you to augment what I have here and post up these details on this thread when you actually do it (for the benefit of others).

Sorry about that.

​​​​​​​Cheers

 

You could consult a shop manual as well, perhaps there is a procedure in there for the disassembly? Not entirely sure.

 

If there is, I could not find it.

A few photos as I did this:

First: DISCONNECT BATTERY!

Okay, let's do this.

10mm long socket to remove ground post


Inserted negative side of the battery tender pigtail. Turns out I was out of NOCO pigtails. So I used an older one I had with a battery tender that I was not using with the motorcycles (all those use the NOCO)



Secure in place



These are the two 10mm nuts holding the box with the positive connection. Remove those.



Box is free from the car.



Undo those two tabs in the back and the one in the front



This is the one in the front... single tab here



Now you can start to separate the two halves... I was not able to get them apart as much as the other post showed... @DMeister not sure how you were able to take it out as you did... but there was enough space to undo the 8mm nut, insert the cable and place the nut back and tighten it with a small 8mm socket.



I did get it apart just enough to be able to undo that 8mm nut. Be careful NOT to drop it... I secured the positive cable from the battery tender pigtail there. Routed the cable on the side of the rubber grommet...




Positive cable routed on the side of the rubber grommet.



Close the two halves... secure box back to the car with the two 10mm nuts...



Cable routed to the wheel well and secured with zip ties.



Reconnect battery and done! No more having to open the bonnet/hood to connect the battery tender.

 

@wachuko thank you thank you thank you, this is excellent!

 

Good man. Thanks for doing that.

Is that female connector gonna stick out like that in your wheel well, or had you not done final placement for that picture?

At least with the connector I went with from CTEK it was able to nicely tuck up where you literally cannot even notice it when not in use, and so that it has maximum protection.

Just a reminder about the suggestion to use dielectric grease. I put it on once a season as a precaution, despite the hood not allowing any moisture in.

 

Correct, I need to tuck it in more. That was just to get the install done.

I missed the dielectric grease recommendation. Let me check what you wrote on that. EDIT: I see, just put some dielectric grease on the plug. Will do that as well. Thank you!

 

Thanks for that (these) write ups, but with my dexterity, I'll guarantee that I will drop that nut trying to get at the + terminal! If someone has a service manual, could you please look up how to remove that green tray with the 2 relays so I don't muck something up?
And please post how it went when you do it. I had it all open down to the green tray, even drilled a hole in the charging pole, but then the cover wouldn't fit over the bolt or the wire, so I put it all back together, no further along than when I started.

 

So I ended up buying the Ctek Comfort Indicator on Ebay at https://www.ebay.com/itm/185837210893 and mounted it on the left sidewall of the trunk/boot of my '16 convertible. Not sure about the coupe, but there is a small panel on the left side that pops out and has room for the Ctek unit, here's a few photos:



used a very sharp utility knife to cut thru the platic panel, then a file to finess then it popped in just fine


fished the leads under the panel then over to the appropriat terminals nex to the battery


All done

 

You should look at the similar method that doesn't require you drill through the + connection point; instead, you disassemble the box to attach at the available ring-connection spot at the hidden base of the + post. No drilling or red cap not-fitting problem.

 

I got all the parts to do that but am still in the "coming apart" phase of my current project. When it goes back together this is my intention, modified of course for the different panels in the coupe. I'm looking to get mine as close to the latch as possible, so am leaning towards the hard plastic panel that surrounds it, opposite the emergency release.