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Has anyone removed their grill S badge, if so how?
Looking at what I assume are the official parts it seems to be screwed on, I'm assuming from the rear, is this correct?
Thanks
Has anyone removed their grill S badge, if so how?
Looking at what I assume are the official parts it seems to be screwed on, I'm assuming from the rear, is this correct?
Thanks
To amplify, it's the entire front nose piece that would need to come off. The "bumper" and "grill" can't be accessed from behind with it on the car.
You'd have to REALLY dislike that badge to go through all that trouble. While removing all the fasteners isn't all that hard, there's an awful lot of "fiddling" that has to be done to get all the seams at the hood and fender panels to line up properly when reinstalling.
Sounds like a real pain in the behind to remove the 'S'. I have toyed with the idea of de-badging mine but haven't for the simple reason that the front 'S' is a pain to get rid of.
As long as you don't damage the honeycomb grill in doing so, which is plastic just like the badge. I have the base, which doesn't have one and can't examine it to see if it's possible to Dremel it off without damaging anything else.
i want to remove the grille r badge, really dislike the colour scheme jag use for these badges
but looks like the badge is integrated into the honeycomb design, so even with it removed, you'll still see the outline embossed into the hexagon pattern
i want to remove the grille r badge, really dislike the colour scheme jag use for these badges
but looks like the badge is integrated into the honeycomb design, so even with it removed, you'll still see the outline embossed into the hexagon pattern
Pretty certain that is part of the backing to the badge, and will separate from the grille when the screws are removed or cut out with a dremel as the case may be.
BTW: Rather than cut it out with a dremel which will get rather messy and carries a high risk of damaging the honeycomb grille, might be safer to drill directly opposite the two screws from the front side (should be able to feel the screw heads by sticking a finger through the grille), with something like a 1/4" drill bit. Its all plastic and will drill quite easily, and once you reach the screw point, then drill three or four holes around each screw tip with an 1/8" or smaller drill bit and this should remove enough plastic that the back mounting plate should just fall out.
As Foosh mentioned, it is quite an undertaking to free the grille, although the only tools you really need are Torx 20 and 30 bits, along with 8 and 10mm sockets. I did it yesterday to install a new surround. It wouldn't have been too bad with a lift, though. And it helps to pay attention to how the various trim pieces fit, it will make reassembly easier. Front wheels and fender inserts definitely have to come off....
Pretty certain that is part of the backing to the badge, and will separate from the grille when the screws are removed or cut out with a dremel as the case may be.
BTW: Rather than cut it out with a dremel which will get rather messy and carries a high risk of damaging the honeycomb grille, might be safer to drill directly opposite the two screws from the front side (should be able to feel the screw heads by sticking a finger through the grille), with something like a 1/4" drill bit. Its all plastic and will drill quite easily, and once you reach the screw point, then drill three or four holes around each screw tip with an 1/8" or smaller drill bit and this should remove enough plastic that the back mounting plate should just fall out.
the r badge surround is definitely integrated into the hexagon pattern, so removing it will just leave a blank outline
the r badge surround is definitely integrated into the hexagon pattern, so removing it will just leave a blank outline
I used to think the same thing, and it appears exactly as you state even on close visual inspection, however this is incorrect. The "R" or "S" badges all adhere the same way. A combination of an adhesive badge, a badge base, badge retainer plate, and two screws. Remove the screws from the back side of the retainer plate and the whole thing separates from the honeycomb grill.
has anyone thought about taking off front undertray trim to reach up behind the badge? or even use an S bend screwdriver to go in through the front
Here's a picture of the back side of the nose. Your idea is logical, but the back side of the nose bar fits over the AL chassis structure, and I think that blocks access to the back side of the badge from below.
Relatively straightforward with a drill and a Dremel sanding wheel, though needed to be careful with the right side screw fitting as it appeared close to the grill hex structure. Thanks for the tips guys.