Looking forward to seeing/hearing about your results (and how it compares to the Antigravity battery)

 

The liteblox is half the weight and an easier installation, but also 3 times the cost of the AG. At a 50% premium to an OEM replacement battery, the AG was an easier decision for me than a battery costing 4.5 times as much as OEM. I don't think there is one right answer here.

 

Finally figured out how to remove the OEM battery tray. Not difficult if you know what to do. 4lbs

 

The battery tray is 4 pounds? What's it made of? Tungsten?

 

The postage scale doesn't lie. 4 lbs, 1 oz. It's a stamped piece of 1/8" or 3/16" steel plate just in case the lb/acid battery leaks. With a little attention, they could have kept this car down in the 3300 lb range.

 

All OEM F-Type batteries are AGM, so lead/acid, but I understand that it is almost impossible for an AGM battery to leak. If so why the need for such a heavy tray?????

 

Good question.

 

 

Remove the battery and the tire goop bottle.





Remove 4 nuts at bottom of tray.



Use trim panel pry tool to remove the vapor hose and cable tie-down loops from the battery tray.



Remove the connectors from the vertical fuse box.





Remove fuse box at the mounting frame



Carefully pry tire goop cradle away from the 3 Velcro strips.



Tray is now ready to remove.

 

Might be worth posting a copy of this in the 'How-To' sticky.

 

Thanks Unhinged! With your guidance I think that I can do this! Delivery of my Liteblox scheduled for this week so hope to give this a try the coming weekend.

 

I'm definitely interested to see how/if the Liteblox battery mounts to the trunk with no tray.

 

 

To get the battery lower, you can safely use 8M-1.25 x 30mm coupling nuts, but the hold-down bolt cannot extend beyond the bottom of the base plate by more than 10mm.

 

Below is the beginning of the mock-up. In order for the battery to sit flat, we will need to use countersunk flathead screws rather than hex heads. Unfortunately this will delay the project by 4-5 days while I wait for those bolts be delivered.


When the basic design gets sorted out, I will ask Billet Design to mill away as much of the excess base plate as they can.

 

My RS30 is fitted.

Stock battery in my car was 25.9kg, the RS30 weighed in at 4.6kg.

I left stock tray fitted, I also put a layer of sticky back velcro on the tray and the opposite velcro with sticky back to underside of battery. This velcro helps hold the battery in possition.

As the other forum memory, negative terminal is a hair to small, I use cut a small section of Jubilee clip and wedged it in making the negative lead nice and tight.

As I really wanted to make the battery as secure as stock, I also used some washers to marginally raise the height of the battery retaining brace, which worked a treat, its now impossible to move the battery as its braced into position using the steel rod that bolts to the battery tray and the velcro for good measure.

Removed the tyre gunk, only other issue the towing hook/eye for recovered now no longer sits next to battery so need to find a new home for it.

 

There should be plenty of spare room for the towing hook in the cubby/box to the right of the battery, I have a heap of gear in mine including the tyre goop, the inflator, the scissor jack, a Gorilla wheel brace, a puncture repair kit, the towing hook and a bunch of tools.

 

Mine installed using original tray and bracket, its going nowhere.

 

Gibbo, you win. The AG battery is a full half inch taller than the OEM battery, and too tall to permit anything other than the OEM tray to be installed. I have employed the same installation methodology as you, and will have pics later today. They won’t look much different than yours. The retaining Rod, however, does require a 1/2 inch spacer at the bottom with a 10mm longer bolt.