I am planning on doing a tune and pulley and was going the route of Velocity originally. I am not sure I want to tackle the lower pulley install, so I contacted a local place that tunes cars and had done work on my previous 911. They quoted me the Velocity pulley but utilizing Weistec for the ECU tune. Weistec claims with the upper and lower pulley it ends up 660hp and 630 torque. The local shop claims to have quicker turn around times and better success with Weistec. And is the lower pulley that much of a pain to install? The shop is really only charging me the install price of the pulley(s) which is about $800. The rest is the same price as if I bought myself.

 

I took the plunge last Sat and swapped the crank pulley myself on the 16R. I went w/ Eurotoys who includes a 1-sided longer belt and a smooth idler pulley that also needs to be swapped (adds 5 mins. T45 bolt)

Thanks to member Dennis I did the swap from top side (removed the plastic air intake T, no fan shroud or hood removal, and wiggled the rubber coolant hoses around to finagle enough working room).

Will post some pics and tips on optimal extension lengths, socket profiles etc to use to make more working room, but in short it’s not hard, just time consuming because R&Ring 6 bolts in a tight space. I personally prefer working from top vs on back

Getting the new belt on was the annoying part; the supplied Gates 1475mm (1490mm OC) belt was still too short and required wrapping it around everything save 1/2 the crank pulley, then rotating the crank to walk/stretch the remainder on, while ensuring belt alignment. I needed my wife’s help to turn the ratchet (to rotate the crank) while I guided the belt with both hands. Even then it took a few tries as there was always a rib misaligned on a pulley or tensioner.

But I’ve since found Gates makes a plethora of increasingly longer belts up to ~1526mm, so if you have these ready during the swap You’ll easily find an appropriately long one that goes on easily like a stock belt does, without assistance.

It took me 5-6 hours with mostly figuring out things for the first time to complete this; a shop would take no more than 2.5 hrs end to end as they have the car on a lift, go from underneath with clear view of the bolts, and most importantly have all tool sizes available.

 

Unless you have no choice this is a much easier job from underneath. Take the underpinnings off and the crank pulley and tensioner are right there with tons of room to get tools in. Put a 1/2" breaker bar on the tensioner to slide the belt off, then use it on the big middle crank bolt to stop the engine from turning over when you start on the pulley bolts. It honestly took me longer to get the car up and underpinning off than it did to take the pulley off. Don't be afraid to attempt it, it's not hard at all.

 

I changed the pulley myself in the driveway. It would have been far easier with a lift but I managed with the car on ramps. Yes, it's a bit of a squeeze to get under, but I had the right tools and it was straightforward. I have a V6 and did not have to fight with the belt. I was expecting a bit of a struggle but that part turned out to be easy. I also did not have trouble holding the crankshaft from turning thanks to the 6MT.

 

Do you have special ramps because I don't think my regular ramps would work on this car. I have some Rhino's I think and although they are not steep, I don't think the Jag could make it with the nose so low.

 

The answer to that has to be yes. I had some 2x8s left over from a retaining wall project so I made a set of 4, two layers each held together with drywall screws. For this task I used all four on just the front, with the upper set supported by pieces of 2x6. Not exactly glamorous, and only gave me about 7" of lift. It was tight, but enough.

I miss having a lift

 

You can always use trolley jacks and axle stands instead of ramps, that is what I do and I don't even have any ramps.
Jack the front up with two trolley jacks one each side then slide a pair of axle stands in again one each side, then lower the trolley jacks down a little so that all the weight is on the axle stands and the trolley jacks are just safety back-ups. Then for added safety chock the rear tyres, one in front and one behind and of course apply the EPB.
Then there is the problem of removing a wheel (a very common task) which obviously can't be done if that wheel is on a ramp, so another reason to invest in at least one trolley jack. DO NOT use the supplied scissor jack to remove/change a wheel at home, it is solely for emergency roadside use, use a trolley jack instead! Those scissor jacks are crap and prone to bend/buckle/break, been there done that some 15 years ago when I had one collapse on me and shove the rear of the car into the garage wall, lucky I was on the other side of the car when it happened as otherwise maybe I would not be here to tell the tale.
Yes investing in a pair of decent trolley jacks and a pair of axle stands can get a little expensive especially as you are better off getting "low entry" trolley jacks (vital if the car is lowered and usually more expensive than ordinary jacks) but well worth it IMHO. And you will get more height and work space this way than you will get with ramps, especially useful for jobs such as replacing the crank pulley.

 

Hillbilly boyeee!! Back in 2018. Pressure treated lumber with exterior screws. I replaced the starter ring. It was a $600 truck. The transmission rolled sideways on the tranny jack and spilled fluid on the plywood that had been snowed upon. Add some speedy dry and you guess the mess. My advice: don't.

 

That's a pretty dodgy setup, especially as it's on dirt. At least it was only the transmission that took a dive.

The ramps I made are intended to work with the long overhang in the front and give only a slight rise. Anything more than that and it's the floor jack and jack stands. Did I mention that I miss having a lift?

 

I built something similar for my 911. It sat too low as well so I stair stepped 2x4's to make a mini ramp. I would do that again but no longer have the power tools to mess with.

 

No problem Bierry im doing a F-TYPE R on Saturday and a XF 3.0 SC On Sunday now i can do it in 45mins to 1 hour with the help of my wife

Then ill be doing a VIDEO for the cooling pipes install