Help... Quiescent relay replacement
Hey all,
First, I am pretty experienced in working on cars and their electricals... given my wife has a 2016 F-Type R which is my first Jag and I am not a Jag mechanic (obviously or I wouldn't be posting this...). 😁
I have been diagnosing a battery draw on her car, and it appears that it is the Quiescent Relay Box. Based on things that I can see, the box appears has a simple remove and replace.
It this correct?
Or does the QRB need to be reprogrammed or sync'd to the car in any way shape or form?
If it needs to be reprogrammed or whatever, is there a step by step how to somewhere you can link me to?
Currently I am using an Autel MaxiSYS, but thought about getting an iCarSoft LR v2/v3 (which I have read many have used with much success) to see if there is any difference between the Autel and iCarSoft.
Thanks!!!
First, I am pretty experienced in working on cars and their electricals... given my wife has a 2016 F-Type R which is my first Jag and I am not a Jag mechanic (obviously or I wouldn't be posting this...). 😁
I have been diagnosing a battery draw on her car, and it appears that it is the Quiescent Relay Box. Based on things that I can see, the box appears has a simple remove and replace.
It this correct?
Or does the QRB need to be reprogrammed or sync'd to the car in any way shape or form?
If it needs to be reprogrammed or whatever, is there a step by step how to somewhere you can link me to?
Currently I am using an Autel MaxiSYS, but thought about getting an iCarSoft LR v2/v3 (which I have read many have used with much success) to see if there is any difference between the Autel and iCarSoft.
Thanks!!!
There are many, many threads on here about a bug/feature of the F-type - if an OBD device doesn’t properly terminate the connection, the car never goes to sleep. The easiest indicator is that the lighted hazard indicator switch doesn’t turn off; it normally goes off roughly 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off as the car goes to sleep. Solution: disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect.
There are many, many threads on here about a bug/feature of the F-type - if an OBD device doesn’t properly terminate the connection, the car never goes to sleep. The easiest indicator is that the lighted hazard indicator switch doesn’t turn off; it normally goes off roughly 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off as the car goes to sleep. Solution: disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
Yeah I read that... I am kind of passed that point and have found the issue being with the QRB... so I am looking to replace it, but just want to know if it needs any programming or coding when a new one is put in. And if so, how to do it.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
I believe it is plug and play.
There is another thread on the forum from 10/26/2021 where a user Buckingham did the replacement and confirmed no coding required after fitting a new QRB from Jaguar.
Hope this helps.
jsbihn - I am curious how your experience turned out. Did Blubbers info end up checking out regarding the QRB needing to be programmed or not? My 2016 F-Type S is in the midst of repair/replacement at a local vehicle repair shop myself after a power draw condition after scanning the vehicle via OBD for MIL/CEL a couple of weeks ago. Then on Friday I was told they need to program/code it with system information in order to communicate with the ECM correctly and would like to know if this is actually needed or not.
Most context - Last week the shop manager quoted $458 x2 for removal and another charge for installation of a replacement unit, which is another almost $245. I'm really not thrilled about this seemingly outrageous cost based on a simple removal of the electronic relay box removal and replacement reinstall in a rather convenient location in the trunk/boot. I understand more labor required for technician time spent troubleshooting and bench testing to determine if my existing QRB was faulty or not.
Most context - Last week the shop manager quoted $458 x2 for removal and another charge for installation of a replacement unit, which is another almost $245. I'm really not thrilled about this seemingly outrageous cost based on a simple removal of the electronic relay box removal and replacement reinstall in a rather convenient location in the trunk/boot. I understand more labor required for technician time spent troubleshooting and bench testing to determine if my existing QRB was faulty or not.
jsbihn - I am curious how your experience turned out. Did Blubbers info end up checking out regarding the QRB needing to be programmed or not? My 2016 F-Type S is in the midst of repair/replacement at a local vehicle repair shop myself after a power draw condition after scanning the vehicle via OBD for MIL/CEL a couple of weeks ago. Then on Friday I was told they need to program/code it with system information in order to communicate with the ECM correctly and would like to know if this is actually needed or not.
Most context - Last week the shop manager quoted $458 x2 for removal and another charge for installation of a replacement unit, which is another almost $245. I'm really not thrilled about this seemingly outrageous cost based on a simple removal of the electronic relay box removal and replacement reinstall in a rather convenient location in the trunk/boot. I understand more labor required for technician time spent troubleshooting and bench testing to determine if my existing QRB was faulty or not.
Most context - Last week the shop manager quoted $458 x2 for removal and another charge for installation of a replacement unit, which is another almost $245. I'm really not thrilled about this seemingly outrageous cost based on a simple removal of the electronic relay box removal and replacement reinstall in a rather convenient location in the trunk/boot. I understand more labor required for technician time spent troubleshooting and bench testing to determine if my existing QRB was faulty or not.
The unit itself is around $90 on eBay.
Do you have some sort of parasitic draw condition?
What you describe is a common issue with these cars (the car fails to shut down completely after connecting an OBD device), and is usually remedied by disconnecting the battery then reconnecting it. Many threads here about it.
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Jacsun
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